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Don't tell the Sears guys about this


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#16 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2011 - 08:04 PM

Nice catch Gibby! I vote for starting the 110 first. Besides, we need your name and pre-order on the Hapco John Deere reproduction order list! Good luck to you on whichever one you decide to do first, and enjoy it.

Troy
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#17 Littledeere OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2011 - 09:11 PM

Thats a pretty good catch there look's to be a 73 or 74
you need to bring a load of Deere here and take a load of Sears back
Thats a lot of Deere for a Sears guy if your not careful you will be converted:bigrofl:
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#18 Gibby OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2011 - 10:04 PM

Nice catch Gibby! I vote for starting the 110 first. Besides, we need your name and pre-order on the Hapco John Deere reproduction order list! Good luck to you on whichever one you decide to do first, and enjoy it.

Troy


As much as I would like to order one(or 4), I've tried replacing seat covers before with less than desirable results, recovering never seems tight or straight when I do it. If they become available already on the seat pan, I'd go that route though, others seem to have better luck doing it than I do.

Thats a pretty good catch there look's to be a 73 or 74
you need to bring a load of Deere here and take a load of Sears back
Thats a lot of Deere for a Sears guy if your not careful you will be converted:bigrofl:


A 1973 according to the SN. I do admit to the fact that John Deeres are superior in quality to the Sears, but the Sears are by far my favorite tractors. No danger of any of the Sears leaving.

#19 crazyhorse OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2011 - 11:21 PM

Congratulations.
Great buy.
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#20 sgtrock1976 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2011 - 07:19 PM

Do those bigger Craftsman GTs come with hydraulics? My father in law has a 1000 that is truly just a lawn mower, and because of the fixed deck, it doesn't mow very well.

#21 Gibby OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2011 - 10:42 PM

Do those bigger Craftsman GTs come with hydraulics? My father in law has a 1000 that is truly just a lawn mower, and because of the fixed deck, it doesn't mow very well.


The only Sears I know of that came with hydraulics from the factory was the FF series in the early 80's. My youngest Sears are a 1978 GT14 Varidrive and a 1978 GT 19.9, and yes, they are quite a bit different than a lawn tractor. They are honest to goodness real deal garden tractors. Some of the newer Sears do come with electric lift for the deck. An electric lift 3 point hitch was available for the older models and now an electric lift sleeve hitch is available for the bargain price of around $640($140 or so for the hitch, $499 for the electric lift kit).

#22 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2011 - 04:06 AM

The only Sears I know of that came with hydraulics from the factory was the FF series in the early 80's. My youngest Sears are a 1978 GT14 Varidrive and a 1978 GT 19.9, and yes, they are quite a bit different than a lawn tractor. They are honest to goodness real deal garden tractors. Some of the newer Sears do come with electric lift for the deck. An electric lift 3 point hitch was available for the older models and now an electric lift sleeve hitch is available for the bargain price of around $640($140 or so for the hitch, $499 for the electric lift kit).


Gibby 640 is steep for sure. Do they ever put those on sale? Sears is known for deep sales discounts. You could probably get an actuator and switch etc somewheres else like for instance Johnny products for a lot less.

#23 Gibby OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2011 - 09:58 AM

Gibby 640 is steep for sure. Do they ever put those on sale? Sears is known for deep sales discounts. You could probably get an actuator and switch etc somewheres else like for instance Johnny products for a lot less.


I never watch for sleeve hitches. Everything I have is 3 point. If I do ever decide to electrify a 3 point, linear actuators can be had much, much cheaper. I've seen comparable(500lb-4"stroke) acuators for between $150 and $200. I can't see sears dropping prices by $300.

Correction, $100-$180. Not exactly sure what the $80 difference between these is.
Surplus Center - 4" STROKE 500 LBS 12 VDC LINEAR ACTUATOR=
Surplus Center - 4.01" STROKE 500 LBS 12 VDC LINEAR ACTUATOR=

#24 Gibby OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2011 - 11:53 AM

Just a quick update on the 110. I got a couple minor thing for it off ebay. The original key switch was corroded off at the ignition terminal, so a toggle switch was put on it by the P/O. I got a "new" key switch and now the toggle is no longer needed. I also got a shift plate as the old one was missing. I think I see why it was, doesn't seem to like to go into 2nd gear with the plate in place. I'm new to John Deere's so I'm not sure what to do there, I'll tinker with it, hopefully it isn't anything internal. I'll keep chipping away at it. The hood is pretty cracked up in the front in the usual place. I'll try redoing it myself rather than getting a new hood(brand new aftermarket hoods on Ebay for $150-$200). So far I'm up to around $140 total investment on the tractor including tractor, key switch, shift plate, and a mower deck drive belt.

#25 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2011 - 12:09 PM

Just a quick update on the 110. I got a couple minor thing for it off ebay. The original key switch was corroded off at the ignition terminal, so a toggle switch was put on it by the P/O. I got a "new" key switch and now the toggle is no longer needed. I also got a shift plate as the old one was missing. I think I see why it was, doesn't seem to like to go into 2nd gear with the plate in place. I'm new to John Deere's so I'm not sure what to do there, I'll tinker with it, hopefully it isn't anything internal. I'll keep chipping away at it. The hood is pretty cracked up in the front in the usual place. I'll try redoing it myself rather than getting a new hood(brand new aftermarket hoods on Ebay for $150-$200). So far I'm up to around $140 total investment on the tractor including tractor, key switch, shift plate, and a mower deck drive belt.


As for the shifting issue, I would suggest tending to the transaxle before much damage is created. Shift forks and detent springs are the weak parts of the Peerless transaxle. If you don't deal with them the problem can/will snowball very quickly and you will need to replace the transaxle. (Been there, done that on my 1966 110).

Sounds like you are doing all right in the $ department.




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