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317 Teardown


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#1 ric44 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2011 - 09:14 AM

Well guys I been putting this off for 3 years so finally aired up the tires on the 317 and rolled it over closer to my tool box in the shop. It has the k17 Kohler motor 2nd series. The motor runs great but unfortunately the governor does not work at all. For those of you familiar with this motor series you know that this means a total disassembley and splitting of the motor to get to the governor assy. Its really the last part to be serviced when doing a total teardown. Work proceeded quickly and I was able to get the motor out of the frame in an hour or so. I got another unpleasant surprise when I took the motor loose from the driveshaft..........the front u-joint is bad.......meaning that unless I can find a used shaft on ebay, Ill have to shell out 210.00 at the dealers as the whole shaft must be replaced. Ill get started back on it monday and should find out what happened to the governor. I plan to at least hone the cylinders and do a ring job while I have it down barring any more surprises. More to come.

#2 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2011 - 10:18 AM

Thanks for posting this. I'll be waiting to see how it goes once you get it apart.

#3 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2011 - 11:16 AM

Wish you the best of luck Ric. Can't wait to see the results. Be sure to post a couple of pictures of the 317 when you're all done!

Troy

#4 mikebramel OFFLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2011 - 10:07 PM

IMG00304.jpg

Big problem the Kohler twins that have the two piece aluminum block. The stub shaft, gear kit isnt more than $40 all together. Set the shaft to .285 if I recall, then cross drill with a roll pin

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  • IMG00329.jpg


#5 ric44 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2011 - 11:19 PM

[ATTACH=CONFIG]22627[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]22628[/ATTACH]

Big problem the Kohler twins that have the two piece aluminum block. The stub shaft, gear kit isnt more than $40 all together. Set the shaft to .285 if I recall, then cross drill with a roll pin


Thanks for the pics Mike. We will see perhaps tomorrow what gave way on the inside.

#6 ric44 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2011 - 02:00 PM

Well got back on the motor this morning and had it split in just a little while. Soon as I opened it up I could see the governor gear-or at least a big piece of it laying in the bottom of the crankcase. See pics.governor k17 001.jpg I fished it out along with a chunk of the gear and steel washer and a peculiar little metal plunger or button that I have yet to identify......it has a cylindrical head and a slimmer pin body that is knurled. Total length is a little over 1/4in. Im still not sure how the governor gear slipped off the shaft unless it broke first then slid off. The governor stop pin and stub shaft were still intact and hadnt moved. If anyone can help identify the small pin-plunger please let me know right now it has me buffaloed. By the way the cylinders looked great with little wear and so did the pistons. I guess I was lucky the the governor gear made it past all the reciprocating parts and gears without damaging something, seems somewhat of a miracle lol. I also found the main oil seal on the flywheel side was cocked and was seeping a little oil. It had to have been installed that way at the factory as I dont think the engine has ever been apart. Now on to the driveshaft removal.......

#7 Gibby OFFLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2011 - 02:21 PM

Well guys I been putting this off for 3 years so finally aired up the tires on the 317 and rolled it over closer to my tool box in the shop. It has the k17 Kohler motor 2nd series. The motor runs great but unfortunately the governor does not work at all. For those of you familiar with this motor series you know that this means a total disassembley and splitting of the motor to get to the governor assy. Its really the last part to be serviced when doing a total teardown. Work proceeded quickly and I was able to get the motor out of the frame in an hour or so. I got another unpleasant surprise when I took the motor loose from the driveshaft..........the front u-joint is bad.......meaning that unless I can find a used shaft on ebay, Ill have to shell out 210.00 at the dealers as the whole shaft must be replaced. Ill get started back on it monday and should find out what happened to the governor. I plan to at least hone the cylinders and do a ring job while I have it down barring any more surprises. More to come.


Maybe you could find a whole tractor for not much more, sell off what you don't need and recoup some money?

#8 ric44 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2011 - 04:03 PM

Maybe you could find a whole tractor for not much more, sell off what you don't need and recoup some money?


Thats an idea Gibby but finding a junker with a good driveshaft would be a longshot as this is a weak part of the 317. The service shaft does come with zerks which pretty much eliminated the problem. As a matter of fact I wouldnt buy a used shaft unless it had zerks.

#9 mikebramel OFFLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2011 - 06:56 PM

They make the gears out of plastic for this reason

#10 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2011 - 08:12 AM

Makes sure and take lots of pictures - both for us and you!
As many of us know from experience, the rebuilds can take on a life of their own! Good pictures of how stuff fit, what went where, which fitting is on top/under/whatever, where unusual washers go, etc are a lifesaver when you try to put it all back together!

I used to put subassembly parts in ziplock baggies to keep them together. But I find that good pictures are almost as good and a lot quicker!

I wonder if there is some way of rebuilding the shaft/joint instead of replacing it? If it is a problem area, seems like someone would have tried to work something out - especially if the part is expensive?

Good luck with the rebuild!

#11 Gibby OFFLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2011 - 08:23 PM

Thats an idea Gibby but finding a junker with a good driveshaft would be a longshot as this is a weak part of the 317. The service shaft does come with zerks which pretty much eliminated the problem. As a matter of fact I wouldnt buy a used shaft unless it had zerks.


Zerks on anything are only a drill bit and tap away.

#12 ric44 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2011 - 09:20 AM

Thats right Gibby but the original shafts arent made to be greased and the joints dont have a hollow body and hollow pins like the service shaft does and zerks would do absolutely no good at all.




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