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Forklift trailer


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125 replies to this topic

#61 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2011 - 05:53 PM

Excellent job so far Ray.
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#62 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2011 - 07:48 PM

Looks great Ray. I like the idea of the anchor point up front. The sides look great, but how does the forklift fit on the trailer, forwards or backwards??



I've always loaded the forklift backwards so the counter weight is between the tow vehicle and the trailer axle.
This trailer is designed so I can load it the same way.

However .. with the tight clearance between the forklift tires and the sides of the trailer, I'm thinking it might be easier to load forward instead of backwards.
And with so little of the trailer sticking out behind the rear axle, I might be able to do it that way.
The counter weight would be very close to the rear axle and the rest of the forklift would be all forward of that so I'm going to try it loaded forward and see it it tows OK without swaying.

Also, are you going to use decking boards or treated plywood for the flooring?

I'm using 5/4 treated decking boards.
I realize the tires are riding right on the channel beams but I want the area between the channels to be able to hold as much weight as it can.
If I put a load of fire wood or gravel in the trailer than most of the weight is going to be between the channels.


Ok, another question and I don't feel like editing lol.
Did you tack weld your U bolt spacers to the axle to prevent the possibility of them trying to get out??

No I didn't, but that might be a good idea.
I had to hammer the spacers in between the bolts and the sides of the axle so I didn't think about locking them in place.

However, I don't want to weld on the axle itself so I'm going to put weld spot on each spacer plate, just to the inside of each bolt.
The spots will prevent the spacers from sliding out past the bolts.

Edited by jdcrawler, October 26, 2011 - 08:04 PM.

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#63 powerking56 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2011 - 08:05 PM

Looks good Ray, that is going to be one rugged multi purpose trailer. I like the built in tie downs, never enough tie down spots on a trailer!!!
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#64 bhts OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2011 - 08:21 PM

It's looking great Ray
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#65 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2011 - 02:04 AM

I think I would take it for a test pretty soon, just in case you need to adjust where the forklift rides on the trailer. I learned years ago about how a load can affect the way a trailer acts on the road. Sometimes, an inch or two one way or another can make a lot of difference. Looking good on the build.
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#66 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 10:28 AM

The opening in the channels across the front and rear of the trailer is 3-1/2 inch wide.
The framework down the center of the trailer is 2-7/8 inch lower than the top of the side channels.
I'm using treated 2x4's in the center of the trailer to support the deck boards.
The ends of the 2x4's are left at 3-1/2 inch so they will fit tightly into the front and rear cross channels.
The center of the 2x4's are cut out so they will rest on the framework of the trailer.

Posted Image


Both 2x4's are mounted in place.

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I'm using five-quarter treated deck boards and they are mounted crosswise with a 1/8 inch gap between them to allow for expansion of the wood.
They have 2-bolts in each end and 2-deck screws in in each 2x4 in the center to hold them down.

Posted Image


The deck is finished.
Building the loading ramps is next on the list.

Posted Image

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#67 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 03:11 PM

Very nice Ray, hope the boards don't shrink too much on you. I also see in the last picture that you have to plane the bottom of the board to allow it to sit down on that channel. I have to ask a few questions about your ramps though.

Will you have them mounted permanently and fold up?
Or are they going to be add ons?
How long and wide will the ramps be?
Do you have any ideas of your materials?
What means will you have to keep them anchored securely to the trailer when loading and unloading?
And finally, will they be adjustable the full width for loading smaller machines?
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#68 dstaggs OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 06:54 PM

Good Job Ray Soon be test run and the paint.
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#69 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 07:53 PM

That looks great, Ray. Nice job on the floor. If it was a bit bigger, you could do a little boot-scootin on it.
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#70 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 08:01 PM

That looks great, Ray. Nice job on the floor. If it was a bit bigger, you could do a little boot-scootin on it.


10-4 on Boot-Scootin.
That is one nice floor.
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#71 Michiganmobileman OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 08:05 PM

Nice Job!! With a coat of paint on it you wont be able to tell it was homemade:thumbs:. Nice Job!! (Yeah I meant to say that twice:smile1:)
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#72 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 11:03 PM

I have to ask a few questions about your ramps though.
Will you have them mounted permanently and fold up?
Or are they going to be add ons?
How long and wide will the ramps be?
Do you have any ideas of your materials?
What means will you have to keep them anchored securely to the trailer when loading and unloading?
And finally, will they be adjustable the full width for loading smaller machines?

I'm using the back doors off the horse trailer to make the ramps out of.
The ramp will be as wide as the trailer and permanently hinged to the trailer and fold up for transporting.
They will be split in the center so they are easier to raise and lower and they'll adjust to uneven ground better than one solid ramp.
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#73 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2011 - 04:27 AM

It's hard to believe these projects are home made,when they all look factory built. Nice job Ray, .......again.:thumbs:
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#74 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2011 - 12:07 PM

The old rear doors off the horse trailer are going to be used for the loading ramps.
I searched thru my metal storage and found a 1-inch diameter solid stainless steel rod to use for the hinge pin.
This rod will prevent the hinge from ever rusting up.

Posted Image


The hinge is going to be built like a big "piano hinge".
I cut sections of pipe that fit over the stainless rod.
These are clamped in place and welded to the top edge of the ramp to form the hinge loops.

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Here's how the hinge looks with the rod removed.

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The overall width of the two ramps is about 6-inchs narrower than the trailer.
Angle iron is welded on the side of one of the ramps to make it wider.
This will be filled in with sheet metal.

Posted Image


The mating hinge loops that go on the trailer frame are cut from a section of pipe that has a thinner wall than the pipe used for the ramp hinge loops.
This allows for the needed clearance between the trailer frame hinge loops and the ramp edge.
These frame hinge loops have to be welded on to a piece of flat steel to allow for the needed clearance between ramp hinge loops and the rear of the trailer frame.

I set up a jig to hold the flat steel and the pieces of pipe in place for welding.

Posted Image


Using the stainless rod as a guide, two of these hinges are welded to the back of the trailer to get everything lined up and square.

Posted Image


Then both ramps are set in place along with all the hinge loops.
The rest of the hinge loops are then welded in place.

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Here's how they look with the ramps folded up.

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These plates are made up to go on each end of the hinge.

Posted Image


The end plates are bolted to the side of the trailer frame and support the outside ends of the hinge rod.
They also keep the hinge pin from sliding out either end.
I welded one of the old U-bolts to each plate for a tie down loop.

Posted Image



The thickness of the metal and the deep "V" that is formed in these ramps make them very strong.
I'm sure they will support any tractor that I could fit on the trailer but I'm not sure they would be strong enough to support the weight of the forklift.

There are two section of 3-inch channel iron left from that pallet rack than I cut apart.
I'm going to use them to brace the ramps in the area where the forklift will ride.

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The channel is welded to the underside of the ramp.

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Sections of 1/2 inch steel rod are fit in the gap between the channel and the top of the "V" and welded in place.

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A piece of flat steel is welded from the end of the channel to the edge of the ramp.

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this is then filled in with a wedge of flat steel.

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Here is one of the finished supports.

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The top side of these ramps are smooth metal and will be slippery.
I went down to my steel supplier and bought a sheet of expanded metal to use for a traction pad on the ramps.
A section of the expanded metal is cut to fit inside the angle iron frame on the ramp.
Using a heavy steel block to hold the metal down, I then weld it to the surface of the ramp.

Posted Image


Here's the finished traction pad.

Posted Image

#75 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2011 - 01:01 PM

Nice work Ray.
As I went thru your post and I saw what might be a problem the next pic you were take care of it.
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