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#31 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2011 - 07:25 PM

If I could get my hands on a decent horse trailer for cheap I would just leave it mostly as is to have an enclosed trailer, but none of the decent ones are cheap LOL.

I built my own 6x10 trailer 3 years ago and wish it was 2 foot longer, inch taller frame rails, and oh ya, tandem axle LOL. Kenny, it never matters what you build, you always know what you really wanted after you built what you needed LOL.
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#32 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2011 - 04:16 PM

With the frame upside down, I finished all the welding on the underside and welded in support plates for the spring mounts.

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Then it was taken back outside, flipped back over to right side up and brought back into the garage.
This time it is set up on blocks so I don't have to bend over so much to work on it.

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I had intended to buy new fenders to go on this but they turned out to cost more than I thought they would so I'm going to make my own fenders.

Here is one of the fenders off the horse trailer.
Both of them are rusted out in the center.

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The two ends are all that can be salvaged from the fenders.

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The forklift is 58 inch wide and the trailer is 60 inch wide between the fenders.
So the fenders need to be strong enough that I can use them to stand on to get on and off the forklift.

Using 3 inch channel, I weld the center upright support in place.
Then another piece of channel is welded to the top of that for the fender to set on.

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Here is the finished center support with the backing plate for the fender welded on.

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The roof section from the horse trailer has formed braces made out of 1 inch square tube.
I ground off the welds to separate them from the inside of the roof metal.

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Getting ready to weld these braces in place to form the frame work for the fenders.

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Here is the finished backing plate for the fender.

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And how it looks from the other side.

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Then I built up the frame work for the outside of the fender with cross bracing at the joint where the fender ends will meet the top piece.

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The curvature of the frame work is a sharper radius than the curvature on the fender ends.
With the fender end clamped at the bottom, the top of it stuck up about 3 inches.
With a bunch of clamps and some persuasion with a hammer, I was able to get it to re-form to the bend of the framework.

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Here it is with both fender ends welded in place..
I haven't decided on whether to put flat metal on the top or some diamond tread steel.
I have some diamond tread but not enough to do both fenders so I would have to buy some if I went that route.

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#33 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2011 - 04:37 PM

Cool fender job, Ray. And I didn't realize the R/T thread was over here, too. Keep up the great job, you are an inspiration for me.
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#34 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2011 - 04:53 PM

Those are going to be some very strong fenders when you get them finished.:thumbs:
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#35 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2011 - 05:04 PM

Hey Ray, I have one concern, tire clearance. You said you reduced the radius of the fender ends, do you still have enough tire clearance when the springs are compressed?
Also, and inch of clearance on each side of the lift to the fenders isn't very much when you are loading and unloading.

Other than that, great progress.
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#36 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2011 - 08:28 PM

Hey Ray, I have one concern, tire clearance. You said you reduced the radius of the fender ends, do you still have enough tire clearance when the springs are compressed?
Also, and inch of clearance on each side of the lift to the fenders isn't very much when you are loading and unloading.

Other than that, great progress.

The curve of the old fender was more rounded so the curve was actually closer to the tire than is is now.
I agree that the clearance is tight but I didn't want to cut the axles and widen them.
I figure the sidewalls on the fenders will end up with a lot of scuff marks in no time at all.

The trailer will be used as a general utility trailer most of the time.
In the 11 years that we have been here, I've only hauled the forklift about 5 times.
At least now I don't have to barrow a trailer to haul it.

#37 dstaggs OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2011 - 10:08 PM

Great job Ray, 1 inch both sides good drive it will slide right in.
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#38 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2011 - 10:35 AM

I was asked a good question on another forum and thought that some of you may have wondered the same thing.
So I decided to post the question and my answer here also. ..............


my inquisitive mind wants to know--did you have a good reason for going with the heavy channel, oriented in the "weak" direction? You could have saved yourself almost 200 pounds total by using TS 3 x 3 x 1/4 (8.81 lb./ft.) square tubing instead of the C 8 x 20. Same depth, but actually stronger, too, in the vertical direction of the applied forklift load--"S" (section modulus) of 2.10 vs. 2.05 for the channel.
Just wondering.



I ended up with the channels for two reasons.
#1 .. The place I buy steel from is also a fabrication shop and they have a scrap pile out back that I often pick thru when looking for steel.
These channels were cutoff ends from a job and were on the scrap pile.
One was about 9 foot long and the other was about 11 foot long and they sold them to me for just a little over scrap price.

#2 .. The trailer is ending up to be much more than I had originally designed.
Originally I was just going to build it with the sides of the channel facing up and just run the forklift up in the channels.
This was going to be an open trailer without any deck or fenders.


After I had already bought the channels and started working on the trailer, I got to thinking ..
I've only had to haul the forklift about 5 times in the last 11 years so I really ought to make this so I can use it as a general utility trailer.
So I flipped the channels over so the deck will be flat all the way across.

Then I decided to put fenders on it to help protect the load and that has given me another little bit of a problem.
Initially, with just the channels for the trailer, there would have been about 2 to 3 inch clearance on each side between the trailer tires and the forklift tires.
Loading and unloading would also be easy as the forklift tires would ride in the channels.

With the fenders on, there is now only about 1 to 1-1/2 inch clearance on each side of the forklift.
The forklift will go on but I'm going to have to make sure that I'm lined up straight for loading.


Had I given this more thought before I bought the steel, I would have gone with square tube as you suggested.

#39 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2011 - 01:31 PM

So basically you had a plan, but it changed to make it more versatile. I liked the channel iron idea as runners either way they face, and the likelihood of bending those is slim, and they actually add lateral support more than square tubing would in my opinion. I use channel on the flat in some of the designs I have and have not built. I think you made a wise choice in adding versatility. I need to modify my homemade trailer at some point myself to get it more sturdy (front to back). Thinking more now about replacing the middle 2x10 or the outer 2x8s with channel iron and weld anchor points to them. Or maybe I would do better welding angle in the channels to box in where the 2x8s originally tuck underneath the channel sides. Who knows, might never get to that. But if I do I will get a 5000 or 6000 pound trailer axle with brakes under it because by then, I will have that capacity LOL
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#40 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2011 - 04:38 AM

I think we all at times ,during a build project, for one reason or another , changed our minds on how we are going to proceed.I know I have.
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#41 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2011 - 06:15 AM

There always seems to be something that shows up that puts a dent in what was planned. I run into them all the time.
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#42 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2011 - 01:06 PM

There always seems to be something that shows up that puts a dent in what was planned. I run into them all the time.

I think I figured out what caused those dents Kenny, you keep running into your projects lol.
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#43 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2011 - 02:31 PM

Great job on the trailer. I love these build threads. Thanks for sharing.
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#44 IHCubGuy ONLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2011 - 02:49 PM

Good luck Ray, I think this will be fun to watch as well.

As Caseguy said, home made trailers exist here, but the process is a bit of a PITA. Last time I enquired, they sent me a 16 page book to fill out and attach pictures from every angle to. They no longer allow mobile home axels... Any on the road now are Grandfathered in. It is much easier to do in Ohio and then transfer it into PA, that's how most guys do it these days, but you gotta have someone who lives there to help you out with the paperwork.



To add one more thing to this and what Caseguy said this particular horse trailer would be a "NO GO" in Pa. Two axle or more trailers in Pa must have brakes on all the axles unless they are older and grandfathered in as pointed out above. Pa is a bit nuts in my opinion with their trailer requirements allthough I can see the reasoning behind it for safety concerns.

By the way, I like the project. Seems to be coming along rather quickly and looks good as usual.
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#45 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2011 - 03:30 PM

Ray, definitely go with the diamond tread or something equally anti-skid. If you step off the Forklift onto a wet smooth steel, you'll do split on that fender that would make a cheerleader jealous. Safety First. LOL
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