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Pulling motor from GT20


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#1 Hadji Ramjet OFFLINE  

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Posted October 01, 2011 - 02:44 PM

I have an intermittent electrical problem on a GT2o that is driving my buggy. Intially, when worked hard the PTO to the cutting deck (60") would disengage and wouldn't re-engage until the machine cooled off. Eventually the problem grew to the motor dying when worked hard and hot. Once that happened, there would be no spark, once cool it went back to working normally. First thought the PTO clutch was shorting out, so disconnected that but didn't resolve the issue. So, started going through the entire electrical system, all the safety switches, ground, relays, disconnected the kill wire, etc. Still not solved. So it seems to be coming down to the coil, have exhausted pretty much everything else and the symptoms do point to that.

Of course it's very difficult to troubleshoot when hot, so by the time I can get inside it the problem has gone away...

The REAL problem I have though, is trying to get at the darned coil. It appears that the motor has to be pulled to remove the shroud to access the coil. Have pulled the PTO belts, found the four motor mounting bolts, removed the fuel lines and carb links and everything else. The driveshaft is stumping me though. Have removed the bolts and locking pin from the transmission side, but the bolt heads at the motor side are behind a shroud, so how the heck do you unbolt them and torque them up again later? I can get at the nuts, but not the bolts and am afraid the bolts will just start spinning as soon as I start loosening them. Or are the bolts actually studs mounted to the coupler on the engine side? It's like a catch-22: have to pull the driveshaft to remove the motor, but have to remove the motor to pull the driveshaft???

Help!!

#2 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted October 01, 2011 - 02:58 PM

Welcome to the forum.Glad to have you with us.
I'm sorry,I can't help you,but someone should be along in a bit.

#3 mikebramel OFFLINE  

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Posted October 01, 2011 - 10:08 PM

The driveshaft should slide off the transmission

#4 Hadji Ramjet OFFLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2011 - 12:19 PM

It doesn't exactly slide off, but does disconnect at the coupler at the tranny end. That still leaves the driveshaft attached at the flywheel end, and I can't believe the manufacturer intended the motor to be pulled that way. Still, I imagine one could remove the steering and switches and that stuff and lift it out, but surely there must be a way to drop the entire shaft first? Suppose the shaft had to be replaced, pulling the motor to do so seems ridiculously complicated.

#5 mikebramel OFFLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2011 - 02:13 PM

that is how they all are

#6 Bail OFFLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2011 - 03:29 PM

Pulled the motor from mine about a month ago. On each of the drive shaft couplings you should find a nut and bolt running across the shaft. Losen the nut up and the bolt part will slide in just a little. It does not come out of the coupling so don't worry about removing them. Once they are loose the drive shaft will move back and forth if pushed or pulled. This along with disconting the back coupling gave me enough room to remove the shaft. Also you may need to replace the ignition switch, your problem sound very much like the one I was having. When the PTO would kick out, I could wiggle the key up and down and it would kick in and out. I also needed to replace the coil pack. Belive the switch may have shorted and killed the coil. hope this helps

#7 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2011 - 03:55 PM

Anyone out there have a service manual for these tractors? It sounds like a good addition to our manuals section. Good luck getting it repaired and back together again.

#8 Hadji Ramjet OFFLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2011 - 10:24 PM

Bail,

That makes sense, there is a locking bolt on either side of the coupler. No problems getting the ones off at the tranny end as usual, but only one is accessible at the motor end; same access issue as for the coupler, it's hidden behind the grass screen. Figure there must be a way to remove the grass screen and slide it down the shaft to access the flywheel end. Already replaced the switch, it tested okay but was really worn and corroded and I got one for a very low price, so went ahead with it.
I'm away training with the military for a few weeks, won't be back home to get back to it until almost the end of the month and will see what transpires then.

Brian, the service and owner's manuals can be downloaded from Ariens.com.

#9 wildkenny OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2011 - 10:03 PM

i have a gt 19 and my coil was right on top out in the open it is $80 from PSEP.com (pats small engine plus)

#10 Bail OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2011 - 02:38 PM

Hadji,
The grass screen bolts on from the bottom. May have to look for the boltheads as mine were covered over with grease/oil resedue from years of use. I think there were 3 of them. The coupling on the motor end can be left attached to the motor once the nut holding the cross lock pin is loose, you should be able to side the drive shaft forward far enough into the front hub for the coupling hub at the rear to clear once the coupling bolts holding the coupling together are removed from that end. Good luck.
Bail

#11 Guest_jdecker94_*

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Posted October 29, 2011 - 01:58 PM

depending on your engine i have a coil for a kohler k532 on ebay. if yours is the 532 its a low hour coil. only 20 hours on the thing max




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