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New tube frame owner, 1st of many questions!


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#1 jbmorse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2011 - 05:28 PM

Hey gang,
I explained the situation with my mysterious tractor in the member introductions forum. The tractor needs a little attention but because it's nowhere near original I probably won't try to get it back to perfect original condition. I'll just fix it up so it works good and looks good too.
Anyway my first question will be what does that lever on the floor marked "Brake" do? Is it like a parking brake of sorts? It's not hooked up to anything right now on my tractor. Here's a picture from above:
Posted Image

When I bought the tractor I got a mower deck and a rototiller, and this week I bought a snowcaster. What a nice snowblower that thing is! The guy who sold it to me said I really should use weights and maybe chains on the back wheels. I also want to get another set of wheels with turf tires for the summer when I'll mostly be mowing. Where should I look for stuff like that? I imagine it's costly to ship these things but I've been watching my local craigslist. Are there other places I should be looking?
Thanks and here's another cool picture after trying a little tilling!
Posted Image

#2 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2011 - 06:14 PM

Here are some manuals that will help you with understanding the controls and features of your Tractor: Bolens 1050 Owners Manual - Manuals - Garden Tractor Talk - Forums

Bolens 1220 - Manuals - Garden Tractor Talk - Forums

The brake you are talking about is the park brake. IMO it really serves no purpose, with the worm drive transmission the tractor really wont roll anyway.

#3 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2011 - 06:19 PM

For snow blowing I would recommend you use weights and chains.


Here's my winter setup:

bolens hyd 004.jpg

As for places to get parts I would check Craigslist, ebay, and our site sponsor Welcome to Bob's Lawn and Garden Tractors

#4 Guest_jdecker94_*

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Posted September 30, 2011 - 06:24 PM

i have some wheel weights id be willing to sell for a reasonable price. pm me if interested. i know 2 should fit in a flat rate box.

#5 OldBuzzard OFFLINE  

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Posted October 01, 2011 - 01:06 AM

... The brake you are talking about is the park brake. IMO it really serves no purpose, with the worm drive transmission the tractor really wont roll anyway.


I've wondered about that "parking brake" as well. The ONLY reason I can thing of why it's there, is to satisfy some federal regulation, as the older tube frames like my '64 800 don't have it.

#6 Guest_jdecker94_*

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Posted October 01, 2011 - 07:06 AM

id say thats a fair guess, or if your like me and pullover sized loads around, it might help on hills. but i do believe my ht20 rolls on hills, i havent tried my g14 yet.

#7 jbmorse ONLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2011 - 04:10 PM

Well I went out and played with the tractor for a little bit today. I didn't do much as the right front tire doesn't hold air and I don't have my own compressor.
I did remind myself of some questions though. First of all, the tractor isn't running that well. I know it's been repowered with something by Tecumsuh. I took a couple of detailed pictures of the engine and carb today but my fancy new camera didn't come with a cable so I don't have them on the computer to share with you yet. Anyway the front of the engine says XL Xtra Life on it. The only numbers I can find are on the top of the engine, probably the serial number. It's been painted over a few times I think, so I can't make them out. It is something like this: 100-1596111 with two or three more digits I couldn't make out.
I would like to rebuild or at least take apart and clean the carburetor. The tractor has a surge when under load, the engine revs up and down. I sometimes can't find the right throttle setting. The only problem is I don't know what carb kit to get because I don't know what it is. Do the numbers on the intake pipe mean anything? There is the number 510125 stamped into it and the air cleaner pipe has 28054. There is a small circle above the float bowl that says 456.
What a mystery! If any of you recognize these numbers please let me know. Maybe I should just take the carb apart and get some pictures of the innards.
Now the other problem is very basic and probably is a dumb question for you guys, but how does the PTO attach to the attachments? I want to remove the rototiller and attach the mower deck. I can see the pins that hold the rototiller on and I see how to get that and the lift arm off, but I can't see where the tiller PTO detaches.
Okay that's a lot so I'll stop there for now. Thanks for any help!

#8 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2011 - 04:38 PM

If you are thinking on rebuilding that engine you may be better off getting a good running Wisconsin to put in it... Just a thought


To remove the tiller Take off the lift link first, then pull the two mounting pins from the tiller and slide the tiller backwards so the shaft comes off the PTO.

As for the deck, mounting it depends on what model you have. If you cant find the model number of the deck post a picture and we will be able to tell by looking at it.

#9 OldBuzzard OFFLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2011 - 04:55 PM

... Now the other problem is very basic and probably is a dumb question for you guys, but how does the PTO attach to the attachments? I want to remove the rototiller and attach the mower deck. I can see the pins that hold the rototiller on and I see how to get that and the lift arm off, but I can't see where the tiller PTO detaches.
Okay that's a lot so I'll stop there for now. Thanks for any help!


I just looked at my round back tiller, and it will just slide off of the front PTO. I think that's because that PTO drive shaft is fixed, and there is no way for it to come off of the front PTO drive.

With other PTO driven attachments, where the drive shaft will telescope, the U-joint has a hole thru it, that you match up with a hole on the PTO Drive. Originally Bolens used a modified cotter pin that kept the U-Joint from coming off Most of those have disappeared. I just use a 1/"4 bolt and nylon lock nut. That pin,bolt, or whatever you use, doesn't have to be strong. All it needs to do is keep the U-joint from sliding off of the PTO drive, and there is very little stress on it. All of the force is in the rotation.

Here's what the U-joint used on a Sickle Bar mower that I just bought looks like. The pin to keep it on the PTO drive worked OK, but was a royal PITA to get off.

100_4028.jpg

Also, when you dismount an implement, make DOUBLE SURE that you remove the U-Joint from the PTO drive. If you don't, and accidentally engage the PTO, it will beat the snot out of the underside of the tractor, and damage pulleys, etc.

AND, the only "DUMB QUESTION" ... is the one that you don't ask.

Attached Thumbnails

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#10 grand ONLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2011 - 04:24 PM

Bolens tiller 002.jpg (I just looked at my round back tiller, and it will just slide off of the front PTO. I think that's because that PTO drive shaft is fixed, and there is no way for it to come off of the front PTO drive.) OldBuzzard is right on the money. I have 4 of the round back tillers and just double checked them to refresh my memory. All of my drive shafts are fixed. So when you pull the pins,it should be able to slide backwards,after disconnecting the lift handle first,like Brian said in his post. And the folks on this site are friendly,so don't be afraid to ask questions. I know that I still have a lot to learn.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Bolens tiller 004.jpg
  • Bolens tiller 003.jpg
  • Bolens tiller 005.jpg
  • Bolens tiller 001.jpg

Edited by grand, October 12, 2011 - 05:15 PM.


#11 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2011 - 05:57 PM

I'll also add, that having that fixed drive shaft makes attaching the tiller almost a 2 person job.

Getting that rascal slid onto the PTO, whilst trying to get it lined up with the mounting holes on the rear axle, is a test of one's patience and vocabulary.




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