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how does belt drive garden tractors do in pulling


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#1 randmgraham OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2011 - 12:17 AM

I have a 68 gilsonwith a 1970 16 hp briggs single cly that has double belts from motor that goes to a shaft underneath then has double belts going back to the tranny would that be a good set up to pull

#2 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2011 - 04:22 AM

I know next to nothing on that,but I know belt drive would not be my first choose for a pulling tractor.I would think when you get under heavy load,they would start slipping.

#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2011 - 04:59 AM

I would think that if the belts can transmit the HP without slipping then it should work fine. There may be more loss in a belt drive but it may not be signifigant. You could upgrade your belts to kevlar or even change to a larger V belt or to a ribbed belt that can handle more power. You would also want to make sure all the bearings are in good shape. Talk to some experienced pullers to see what they think.

#4 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2011 - 09:20 AM

Back in the late 60's and early 70's we pulled with a Wheel Horse. We always pulled in the top 3, mostly winning. That was before the Cub guys figured out how to make the clutch hold up. Wheel Horse and Simplicity/AC were the tractors to beat, both run a single belt on their drive.

#5 CASENUT OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2011 - 09:29 AM

I have a 68 gilsonwith a 1970 16 hp briggs single cly that has double belts from motor that goes to a shaft underneath then has double belts going back to the tranny would that be a good set up to pull


I am not an expert on this matter, but I'd bet your tractor would hold its own. The V belts give incredible grip as it is, and with 2 of them in new condition along with pulleys in good shape, you might get outpulled and in doing so you'd learn, but IMHO I bet youd hold your own quite well...GL

#6 randmgraham OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2011 - 05:59 PM

well thanks for the info dont the sears pull with a belt that have the hi/lo trans

#7 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2011 - 06:07 PM

My dearly departed Wheel Horse with the diesel conversion used one "B" belt and was unstoppable. It finally destroyed the rear end. That same engine is now hooked directly to the transmission on another tractor via a shaft and I can't tell any difference at all. I personally would rather do an install using belts as it is easier. Another thing to consider is the easy changing of ratios with a belt drive. If you set it up right it will do the job.

#8 junkman1946 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2011 - 07:47 PM

Your using a belt to jackshaft to tranny system. To much power loss. Most pullers will change one of those belt drives to a chain drive.The only machines with belt drive that have a decent set-up is Sears Suburban and Wheel Horse.The geometry?of those belt systems just seem to be "right". You replace the front pulley with an adjustable one and you have instant gear ratio change. You also have to mount the motor in slots on the frame to be able to slide the motor back and forth as you change pulley diameter.
The final secret to belt drive success is to use a BX series belt, they are not reccommended for clutching , because they grab and don't slip. On my Wheelhorse B-Stock I have to shut the motor down to get it in gear. But my Trophys and Ribbons kind of make the effort worthwhile.

#9 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2011 - 09:30 PM

Think belts are a good setup for smaller tractors - 16 and under. I remember the Sears and Panzers pulling real well in the smaller classes. Simple setups like that seems to put what power the smaller engines got to the ground.

#10 Rick Brumback OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2011 - 10:17 PM

Well,belts have a nasty habit of burning when you put a heavy load behind them like a pulling sled.Also they slip and break.Gear drive is your best bet for pulling.

#11 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2011 - 10:29 PM

Junkman if your talking about my tractor there is only one belt. The other end of the shaft uses #50 roller chain. The belt end of the shaft will also be running a 280ZX power steering pump plumbed to a lift cylinder from a CC 1650 on the back. I'm not real fussy who's parts I use.:smile1:

P.S. My belt never did slip. It was the gears that gave out.:(

#12 junkman1946 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2011 - 06:31 AM

If the gears gave out, thats a problem. I would suggest you find a WheelHorse or Suburban, because if you continue with this weak transaxle its only going to happen again. Also that pump your talking about for the lift is robbing power from your engine. Disconnect it. As stated above Cub Cadet is the best choice, but it can be pricey to set up.The belt drives are the "poor mans choice" and with the right combination can be competitive with just about any CC out there in the Stock classes. BTW I usually get a whole season out of my BX belt, it won't "smoke out" it will stall the engine. or spin the tires. My Whhelhorse runs a 20 h.p. Onan Performer, basically factory stock, in the B-Stock 1150 lb. class.

#13 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2011 - 10:15 AM

I'm not pulling with this tractor. Just for fun and garden. I had to put the ATV tires on because when pulling a 4' disc I couldn't keep traction. This is with a 5hp diesel.

#14 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2011 - 04:29 PM

I was thinking that the kevlar and other high strength belts used on mower decks should be able to transmit a lot of power without burning up. I think that having larger pulleys helps as it increases the surface area of the belt in contact with the pulleys. Interesting thread!

#15 junkman1946 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2011 - 07:08 PM

Well gee, I thought I was talking about the Gilson in the first post. JD Brian, High strength belts don't seem to be to much in "vogue" around here. The most radical thing we use are the "green" Heavy duty belts, and I use BX cogged belts. The issue doesn't seem to be tight belts. Often people watching me pull can see my belt deflecting up and down between the pulleys. The secret seems to be to get as much belt contact as possible around both pulleys. And most important, to have the angle of the pulley groove match the angle of the belt. A belt seldom "bootoms out" in a pulley, the sides of the belt make contact with the sides of the pulley.




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