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#1 tomkuchenbrod OFFLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2011 - 10:40 AM

Howdy,

I spent five hours working on my mf 10 yesterday and didn't shed a drop of blood.

I am happy to report that my mf10 is now stripped down to nothing but frame. All the parts have been pressure washed and wet sanded and are awaiting a dry day or two for the primer. My tractor will not be a true restore, however. I plan to use rhino bed liner on some of the parts that will not show and then paint over the top of the bedliner. Not authentic but I only want to do this once. My nose still hurts. (See steering wheel post.)

#2 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2011 - 11:20 AM

Sounds like you go moving right along.

#3 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2011 - 01:08 PM

Glad you didn't let that little bump on the nose slow you down. :thumbs:

#4 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2011 - 02:59 PM

I have thought about using bed liner as a coating for the underside of some of my mower decks. It sounds like a good idea to me. Just out of curiosity, what are some examples of where you will be using it?

#5 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2011 - 09:10 PM

I have used it in a few places myself. Right now I have the seat pan for my Hydro-12 out getting the tool box under the seat lined. I did the one on my Geared-12 and it's one of the best things that I did. I also sprayed it on the top side of my mower deck, but only under the top shield cover. Again, a great application where grass and water tends to sit out of sight.

Another place that is good, would be to carefully mark the front of the seat pan where the poorly designed "fender shields" bolt on. Why they saw fit to make the metal edge sit like that against the paint, I will never understand. I "may" try to cut and weld to remove that spot and make it so that it is sitting with lower edge of the seat pan where the body line angles down.
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#6 dstaggs OFFLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2011 - 09:19 PM

You doing good sore nose and all, let them pictures come are way.

#7 tomkuchenbrod OFFLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2011 - 11:01 AM

I will use it on the under side of the frame, the under side of the mower deck, under the seat toolbox, on the foot rests and under the wheel wells. Also under the battery and the gas tank. However, once I get the liner on, I am going to paint right over it with the correct colors. It will look rough, but it isn't anywhere that it will be seen except on the foot rest.

#8 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2011 - 03:50 PM

I guess you have put your nose to the grind stone, or should that be steering wheel, and got a lot done in a short time. It usually takes a lot longer to put them back together than to take them apart IME. Good luck with it and post some pics if you can.

#9 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2011 - 09:58 PM

I thought you might like to see some photos too. I did not paint over the liner in the tool box, but had it lined so that it would not show when closed. I should point out that bringing the liner a 1/4" above the top of the pan where the top lid closes, will keep it from rubbing the sides of the fender when closed. I did have to grind that top pan down just a little for better clearance with the tick liner. BUT, it will keep the paint from being harmed in normal use. On my next one (the hydro) I am going to add some rubber bumpers that are used on the Jeep CJ's where the hood sits against the grille. They are very thin and mount in a simple drilled hole. This will stop the pan from rubbing all the paint off when closed.

 

MF12-paint-n.jpg

The other thing I did with the geared MF-12 was to weld up all the extra holes in the seat pan. They keep the same stamping for both pans, but just moved the divider off to once side on the hydro's. Without the hydro tank and hoses, there was a lot of extra holes. I figured if I was going to have a sprayed in liner, I wanted to fill in the unused holes.

Here is the pan in primer after I sand-blasted it.

Seat-2.jpg

And then after the extra holes were welded closed. I kept the 4 corner drain holes for water drainage. The one thing I would suggest is that you also spray the bottom of the pan when you do it. The way they bolt right down to the frame, it will wear the paint. The liner acts as a cushion and will keep the rust at bay.

 

Seat-6.JPG

 

Seat-5.JPG

Then, I had the topside of the mower deck done. If you do the underside, check to see if they can spray it smooth. I would think that having the thick texture will hold onto grass. (Although, I never seem to keep it from building up anyway!) I would highly suggest you spray the topside like I did as well. That will be a big help keeping the rust away down the road.

Before:
mower-2.jpg

 

mower-3.jpg

And with the liner sprayed on. I did not paint over this, but they tinted the liner itself red. The pattern was drawn out using the top cover shield. This way the top shield is sitting on the liner and does not rub the paint.

 

mower-28.jpg

 

mower-30.jpg

 

mower-31.jpg

Combine this with rebuilding everything else on the deck, and replacing every nut & bolt with stainless steel, makes working on it down the road a dream! It all comes down to the detail...
 

mower-44.jpg


Edited by FirefyterEmt, June 29, 2014 - 10:12 PM.

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#10 tomkuchenbrod OFFLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2011 - 08:13 AM

Thanks for the great pics. I will certainly use this info on my massey.:worshippy1:

#11 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2011 - 08:50 AM

Great ideas on the use of the bedliner. And great build. Have a winter deck restoration to do and may borrow some of those ideas.

#12 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2011 - 10:30 AM

Thats a sweet job you did on that MF FEmt. Thanks for the photos and sharing your ideas for preserving what you have restored.

#13 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2011 - 11:11 AM

Thats a sweet job you did on that MF FEmt. Thanks for the photos and sharing your ideas for preserving what you have restored.



Ditto ! Nice job.




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