Posted September 25, 2011 - 10:40 AM
I spent five hours working on my mf 10 yesterday and didn't shed a drop of blood.
I am happy to report that my mf10 is now stripped down to nothing but frame. All the parts have been pressure washed and wet sanded and are awaiting a dry day or two for the primer. My tractor will not be a true restore, however. I plan to use rhino bed liner on some of the parts that will not show and then paint over the top of the bedliner. Not authentic but I only want to do this once. My nose still hurts. (See steering wheel post.)
Posted September 25, 2011 - 11:20 AM
Posted September 25, 2011 - 01:08 PM
Posted September 25, 2011 - 02:59 PM
Posted September 25, 2011 - 09:10 PM
Another place that is good, would be to carefully mark the front of the seat pan where the poorly designed "fender shields" bolt on. Why they saw fit to make the metal edge sit like that against the paint, I will never understand. I "may" try to cut and weld to remove that spot and make it so that it is sitting with lower edge of the seat pan where the body line angles down.
- tomkuchenbrod and Sawdust have said thanks
Posted September 25, 2011 - 09:19 PM
Posted September 26, 2011 - 11:01 AM
Posted September 26, 2011 - 03:50 PM
Posted September 26, 2011 - 09:58 PM
I thought you might like to see some photos too. I did not paint over the liner in the tool box, but had it lined so that it would not show when closed. I should point out that bringing the liner a 1/4" above the top of the pan where the top lid closes, will keep it from rubbing the sides of the fender when closed. I did have to grind that top pan down just a little for better clearance with the tick liner. BUT, it will keep the paint from being harmed in normal use. On my next one (the hydro) I am going to add some rubber bumpers that are used on the Jeep CJ's where the hood sits against the grille. They are very thin and mount in a simple drilled hole. This will stop the pan from rubbing all the paint off when closed.
The other thing I did with the geared MF-12 was to weld up all the extra holes in the seat pan. They keep the same stamping for both pans, but just moved the divider off to once side on the hydro's. Without the hydro tank and hoses, there was a lot of extra holes. I figured if I was going to have a sprayed in liner, I wanted to fill in the unused holes.
Here is the pan in primer after I sand-blasted it.
And then after the extra holes were welded closed. I kept the 4 corner drain holes for water drainage. The one thing I would suggest is that you also spray the bottom of the pan when you do it. The way they bolt right down to the frame, it will wear the paint. The liner acts as a cushion and will keep the rust at bay.
Then, I had the topside of the mower deck done. If you do the underside, check to see if they can spray it smooth. I would think that having the thick texture will hold onto grass. (Although, I never seem to keep it from building up anyway!) I would highly suggest you spray the topside like I did as well. That will be a big help keeping the rust away down the road.
And with the liner sprayed on. I did not paint over this, but they tinted the liner itself red. The pattern was drawn out using the top cover shield. This way the top shield is sitting on the liner and does not rub the paint.
Edited by FirefyterEmt, June 29, 2014 - 10:12 PM.
- JDBrian, HDWildBill and Sawdust have said thanks
Posted September 27, 2011 - 08:13 AM
Posted September 27, 2011 - 08:50 AM
Posted September 27, 2011 - 10:30 AM
Posted September 27, 2011 - 11:11 AM
Thats a sweet job you did on that MF FEmt. Thanks for the photos and sharing your ideas for preserving what you have restored.
Ditto ! Nice job.