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Milk Tank Woes...AGAIN!


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#16 dstaggs OFFLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2011 - 04:25 PM

Proud it's up and cooling, Got to have my MILK it is the one item that's a must with me.

#17 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2011 - 04:28 PM

Proud it's up and cooling, Got to have my MILK it is the one item that's a must with me.


I can always count on Dale to bottoms up the milk! :thumbs:

#18 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2011 - 08:21 PM

Daniel, very good news. Very glad to hear it wasn't a bank breaker.

As cold one said, you may be coming up on end of life for this.

The place we used to get milk when I was little had a home made backup. They had a compressor out of a car mounted on a small gas engine and had it plumbed into things somehow. I was < 10 so I don't remember the details, just the engine in the corner of the parlor.

#19 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2011 - 08:47 PM

The little square block on the bottom of the the expansion valve that the capillary tube is attached was pitted badly, so that's where it lost it's charge. I never smelled anything, so it likely lost it while I was out of the parlor at night. He said you usually can smell the cap charge.
Even with both cooling sets running, on severe hot days, I run a mister. Before next summer I plan to make an automatic mister. Using a water solenoid from a dishwasher, I'll plumb it direct, then have the solenoid wired to come on with the condenser fan. The way I've done it up to now uses too much water, as I tend to forget & it runs even after coolers have shut off, plus it runs water between fan cycles, which is just a waste too. I'll likely use high pressure round pattern spray nozzles off a crop sprayer. The crop spray nozzles I've been using are flat spray pattern/higher volume & don't give as broad a coverage area on the condensers. As you know Coldone, it takes just a very fine mist to really make the cooler much more efficient. I've even considered doing this on my home AC, but it's not well water, so it'll cost some to run it, but then with a fine mist, it wouldn't use much water.


Sounds like you have the "good" TXV problem. Glad it wasnt anything serious for you. I know how expensive the repairs can get.

The mister trick works wonders on those 95+ dergree days. R22 stops being effective at those ambients. When its time to change out the old systems, I will give you the skinny on what the salemans is telling you.

I wanted to use the mister trick on my old system here at the house, but my water is so hard you can walk on it. I didnt want to have to use scale remover on the condensor every two weeks.

#20 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2011 - 10:50 PM

We used to run water on the ends of the condenser where the return bends in the tubing are at. This eliminates scale build up on the condenser core. You would be amazed at how fast the head pressure would drop when the water was turned on. You might want to give that a try as scale build up can happen very very fast.
  • coldone said thank you

#21 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted September 20, 2011 - 03:32 AM

Daniel, glad is was more of a simple fix. Keep that milk coming!

#22 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted September 20, 2011 - 08:09 AM

We used to run water on the ends of the condenser where the return bends in the tubing are at. This eliminates scale build up on the condenser core. You would be amazed at how fast the head pressure would drop when the water was turned on. You might want to give that a try as scale build up can happen very very fast.


Now why havent I thought of that! That would eliminate my concerns about the cooling fins getting clogged with scale and provide heat removal when the air temp is too high. I will have to give that a try next summer. Thanks.

#23 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted September 20, 2011 - 01:03 PM

If it works as well for you as it did for us I think you will be very happy.
Good luck.

#24 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted September 20, 2011 - 02:17 PM

We used to run water on the ends of the condenser where the return bends in the tubing are at. This eliminates scale build up on the condenser core. You would be amazed at how fast the head pressure would drop when the water was turned on. You might want to give that a try as scale build up can happen very very fast.


I'll have to consider that alternative! It would use more water volume, but we have a great well water system. Just hate seeing water run off. I might be able to build a box over the end, then still use a spray nozzle in there, but a higher volume spray nozzle than I'd use on the finned area to be sure to get water over all the bends. If I do it this way, I'll wire the water valve solenoid to come on with the compressor instead of the fan.

#25 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted September 20, 2011 - 03:58 PM

I found on our application that not that much water was needed. If the water is introduced at the top it tends to drip from one return bend to the next. A simple aluminum 3 sided shield is all that is needed. We actually were able to achieve the results we needed just by cooling one end and this was in a very hot environment. Your going to find that there is quite a bit of area contained in those return bends and the number of BTU's pulled off by the cool water is pretty substantial. If you can keep the water spray contained inside the shield there should be no long range affects on the rest of the condenser. We experimented with just a garden hose until it was determined what was going to be required. I like the KISS theory a lot.
Good luck.

#26 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 20, 2011 - 04:13 PM

Nice thread guys. My father was in the refrigeration business for 50+years until retiring recently. Thats how I got interested in things mechanical. I would go with him in the evenings and on weekends to do repairs and installs. Everything from domestic fridges to walk ins and large flake ice makers for fish plants. He also worked ammonia for a local skating rink. I remember that compressor. 2 cylinder 9x9 (bore x stroke) with a 75hp electric motor driving it. I probably should have gone into the business myself but went into electronics instead. This discussion has brought back some memories!

#27 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted September 20, 2011 - 05:39 PM

Glad you got everything fixed up Dan, hope it stays that way for a long time to come! There are some really good ideas in this thread! I'm glad we've got all these smart guys rattling around here!

#28 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted September 20, 2011 - 07:50 PM

I'll have to consider that alternative! It would use more water volume, but we have a great well water system. Just hate seeing water run off. I might be able to build a box over the end, then still use a spray nozzle in there, but a higher volume spray nozzle than I'd use on the finned area to be sure to get water over all the bends. If I do it this way, I'll wire the water valve solenoid to come on with the compressor instead of the fan.


Daniel,
I was thinking that with a big system like yours you could make a resevoiur at the bottom of the bends and add a small pump to recirculate the water. Add a float switch for make up water and you could use just waht you needed. Just like with an evap cooler because in essence that what you would be doing, adding a evap cooler to the system.

#29 dstaggs OFFLINE  

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Posted September 20, 2011 - 08:00 PM

Beat me on that one, That could be Redneck engineering.

#30 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted September 20, 2011 - 08:25 PM

My 2 cooling units are stacked, so I could box the ends in one continuous boxing, & just use a single nozzle. It wouldn't use that much volume, so the water used wouldn't be that much. As much heat as these things develop in super hot weather may warm the water too much in a float/reservoir system unless my skills in the box building were pretty lax & resulted in lots of loss. LOL In all reality, I could likely spray direct on the finning with little to no buildup, as I've been doing this every year during the hot times (with a crude spray system) and have yet to see any buildup of any kind.




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