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my new (to me) 210


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#1 jdizzie OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2011 - 10:16 PM

So, this is my first post here on GTT. My names Justin, and inherited a "barn fresh" 1983 John Deere 210 that I saved from my cousin taking to the scrapyard. SO, the 210 didnt run, and after 30 posts on the WFM forum, she's up and running like a champ.

Thanks again to that crew.

HERE'S THE LIST.

1983 JD 210/ 10 hp Cast iron Kohler
Wheel weights are on it
little surface rust all around.
Have the plow, rusted all to heck,
have the tiller with mule drive, no belts, not as rusted as the plow.
THE 210 has the hydraulic lift option and the 38 inch mowing deck.


Now my questions:

How do you attach the plow?
How do you atttach the tiller?
Should I prime the fenders and engine grills, after sanding to paint them with the Jd spray paint I bought, and is clear coat neccesary?
I'm missing two bolts and washers from the engine side guards, can they be purchased from deeere individually?
I have the kohler manual, the 210 manual, and ive been doing some reading....


It seems like I'm grinding the gears though when i shift, how about a shift pattern?

Do you need to adjust tje variable speed between shifting?


Any and all questions or comments are appreciated ....

Especially wisecracks.

Cheers. - J.

Edited by MH81, September 16, 2011 - 06:26 AM.


#2 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2011 - 05:25 PM

I can't help with most of your questions as I am not familiar with the John Deeres but I can help bump your thread back to the top.

Regarding the gear grinding, I am guessing this is the same variable speed setup that is found on like the 110 or the 112's and others? If so you can do the adjustments outlined in the manual for the vari drive. Also check for worn items like belts. I also hope that you are not shifting while moving? You need to be at a complete stop before trying to shift.

#3 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2011 - 05:25 PM

Forgot,.... welcome to GTtalk.
  • jdizzie said thank you

#4 ckjakline OFFLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2011 - 07:15 PM

Clear coat protects your paint and also brings out the shine.I use automotive clear coat .Last time i got clear coat and hardener it was $75.00 for a gallon.It depends how you want your tractor to look,whether or not you use,its up to you

#5 jdizzie OFFLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2011 - 07:17 PM

Thanks for getting back to me. Yes, Im definitely at a complete stop with the clutch pedal pushed all the way down before attempting to shift....it goes smoothly into 1st, and 2nd, but it sometimes wont shift into 3rd, and i onlu hit fourth gear once....Im still learning though....Truth is, this machine is a bear, I really, really caught the fever pretty quickly, and im looking forward to a gro und up restoration.

Plus, its fun as all....heck?

#6 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2011 - 10:07 PM

Wow, that's a lot of questions. Let's see if I can help you with all of them.
When you say plow, I'm assuming a snow plow, and not a garden plow? The snow plow hooks onto the front of the frame, and snaps into place. I'm assuming the lift pivot is already connected to the underside of the frame, just below the grille? The lift rod, if not already attached, connects to the lift link under the front of the frame, and runs under the tractor to the lift pivot. To find which linkage is the lift pivot, move the lift lever back and forth, while under the tractor, and you'll see which linkage to connect the rod to.

If you stripped the paint down to the bare metal, then yes, you want to prime the pieces before applying the finish coats. I don't use clear coat on my tractors. It makes the finish too shiny, and they didn't look like that when bought new, but that's just my opinion. You do want you want.

Yes, the bolts and washers are available through Deere, and are inexpensive. If memory serves me correctly, I believe you need three of each, for each side.

If you're not experienced with the Variable Speed Control, you may want to stay away from adjusting it yourself, and let the Dealership do it. There are three different adjustments needed, that all need to be done together, as each one effects the other. These tractors are old! Just about all of my tractors don't shift easily in all gears. When trying to shift into 3rd and 4th gears, if it doesn't go into gear at the first attempt, don't force it. Sometimes letting the clutch out just a little, and then pressing down all the way again, will let the gears re-align, and will let the gear mesh.

I think I have everything covered. If you are still needing additional information, let us know.

#7 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2011 - 08:53 AM

Welcome! As one who spent a significant part of the 80's on an early 210 (with the wire screen side panels) they are quite capable machines. Do the maintenance and they will last a long time.

To add to the thread...

As for the gears shifting hard I see two potential issues. Variator adjustment that johndeereelfman suggested. The same basic design was in production from 1963 on the first 110's until the end of the 200 series. I would suggest getting a Deere service manual and looking it over. This link on eBag shows a few that are available:
http://www.ebay.com/...-All-Categories


I have done some adjustments on my 110 and it is a pain but doable. If you have a competent tech that knows them it would well be worth the $$ to hand off to them.

The second thought is wear inside the peerless transaxle. Shift forks and shift detent balls/springs do wear over time. If it is either of these putting off the repair can be very expensive... trust me on this one as my 110 is still out of commission due to a severe transaxle failure including gears with broken teeth...

#8 jdizzie OFFLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2011 - 08:54 AM

Well, I'm so new to this, i couldnt tell you the difference between a garden plow and a snow plow. Haha. It mounts to the front of the tractor.... I actually want to use to level out some low spots in my yard.... I had a friend of mine stump grind some huge norway maples that i took down and theres chip everywhere. I really dont want to take the mower deck off if i can attach the plow and use it, but the plow itself is in pretty foul shape...rust on top of rust, and the blades rotten through in a couple places... i found a youtube video on the plow removal, the spring pins are rusted solid. Does deere sell these individually? Thanks again...

#9 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2011 - 10:31 AM

I forgot to add the shift pattern last night, per your request.

While sitting on the tractor, 1st gear is all the way back, and all the way to the right. 2nd gear is half way between 1st gear and neutral. Reverse is all the way back and to the left. 3rd, is all the way front and to the right, and 4th is all the way front and to the left. I'm sure you know that you're in neutral when you can move the shifter all the way front and all the way back towards you.

#10 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2011 - 06:29 AM

There is a 200 series service/technical manual in the manuals section of the forum. Good to hear you are making some progress with it.




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