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Here I Go Again! Dump Trailer Time!


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#211 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2011 - 05:21 PM

Looks GREAT !!! I want one now !

Brian, that thought has occurred to me. Brainstorming a stop right now. Hopefully, it will all fall out before I get this high.

How about some type of " bar" going across the pipe at the lower piviot spot , to keep it from raising too high ( picture 10) , Al

#212 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2011 - 05:47 PM

Looks GREAT !!! I want one now !

How about some type of " bar" going across the pipe at the lower piviot spot , to keep it from raising too high ( picture 10) , Al

Here's a closeup of the area, may be just the ticket. Thanks for the idea!
Image0111.jpg

#213 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2011 - 06:17 PM

Kenny, that looks great, can't wait til you get finished up so you can move onto another great build. :D

This will take some time yet to finish all the welds and paint. And I have work coming. Probably be the last thing I get done this year.

#214 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2011 - 06:47 PM

Awsome Job Kenny , I love it !! thats some nice seat of the pants engineering !! Great Job !

#215 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2011 - 11:43 PM

Seems to work rather easily with the come-a-long. Time to get some roll pins for the shafts, do some more welding.

#216 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2011 - 05:01 AM

Kenny, really nice job. :worshippy1:

If the lift stop bar doesn't pan out, you could put stop chains on it. Raise it to where you want it to stop, and figure where a foot long chain would be most effective frame to body. It'll hang down 6", but looks like you have lots of clearance to the ground. Just make sure it's not on something that could bend if you go to high.

Another way to do it, wire a limit switch into the "up" wire of your controller and put a momentary microswitch with roller on it. Have to design an actuator to trip it, but I'm sure thats doable several ways. Only downside here is potential for corrosion, but as long as it's under the body, shouldn't be a biggie.

#217 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2011 - 05:40 AM

I like the chain idea. This winch is remote controlled, runs just a bit after hitting the stop button. Chain would let me know when it time to hit it, if I set it to just before max lift.

#218 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2011 - 06:25 AM

I was thinking that an electrical stop like the limit switch mentioned above would be the best idea. The winch would be able to pull some serious force if it fetched up hard on a mechanical stop. It could damage something or trip a breaker/fuse if it has one. If you wired a switch normally closed in series with the up contacts of the winch control then when the switch opened the winch would stop but the down control would still work. That's the simplest arrangement I can think of off the top of my head. The switch would need to handle the current drawn by the winch relay and be physically robust so you would want something fairly large.

#219 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2011 - 07:39 AM

A switch like this should work, as long as the current rating is sighing spec for the circuit.

Having had a couple of small winch paddles apart over the years, I think it should work, they usually are pretty light duty on the ones I've seen. Of course, maybe that's why they failed :blush2:

http://search.digike...0092-ND/2044438

Edited by MH81, November 06, 2011 - 07:50 AM.


#220 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2011 - 08:29 AM

This has only a remote switch to control. I'd have to figure out how it is wired to install a switch like that and I'm not that good at that. Let me play with the chain idea a bit. At least I will be able to tell when it is getting close to get it stopped. There may be something inside I could adjust, just don't want to mess it up. Otherwise, I'll have to figure out how to rewire and buy switches to disable the remote.
I might use something else to let me know when I am nearing the break over point.

Bright idea! I have a spring, fairly large, that I can incorporate into the chain. If I go too far, it will help pull back to let the lift go down.

Edited by KennyP, November 06, 2011 - 08:38 AM.


#221 Michiganmobileman OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2011 - 08:36 AM

Looks like that works great Kenny, Nice Job!:thumbs:

#222 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2011 - 09:51 AM

I wasn't thinking about the winch turning a bit after switching it off , how about making the attaching point spring loaded , both ways so you have a little cushion either way , thinking like they way my rear lift works . Might be able to " shake " the dump bed to get dirt that sticks inside .




http://gardentractor...e-image005-jpg/

#223 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2011 - 10:43 AM

With a spring it would give you time to shut it off without damaging something. That may be all you need. A plow blade trip spring would probably be about the right size. Once you get it working you'll get a feel for if it is even an issue at all.

#224 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2011 - 02:06 PM

I put the winch on it this morning and a spring loaded chain. I don't think I will have a problem unless the winch keeps working after I let go of the button. Travel after right now is not bad. Maybe a couple inches of cable travel. I should be able to control it, but have the chain and spring to start things back the other way when needed. Definitely getting at least a 55 degree dump angle, so it should empty just fine. Now to finish it all and get ready to paint. Color choice will be my next challenge. The under carriage will be Black, White wheels. I'll go either Red or Blue with White trim. I'll do a Sketchup in both colors so we can see what it will look like.

#225 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2011 - 02:19 PM

You did a nice job painting your Ford , that would make a nice match , Al




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