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318 Onan P218 - Rebuild or Repower?


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109 replies to this topic

#46 rammer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2011 - 10:19 AM

Lawnguy,
I'm also a member of a John Deere website. Several members have repowered 300 & 400 series machines with engines from S.E.W. but have had mixed results with what they call "conversion kits".
I suggest you check out the WFM website, do a search for repower and read - hope this helps.
Tom (rammer)

#47 Lawnguy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 07:37 AM

Thanks Rammer, I googled WFM but I'm not having any luck..... just lots of radio stations. Do they sell engines? or just parts to mount different engines?

#48 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 08:17 AM

try a search for "weekendfreedommachines" and search on there for "repower"

#49 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 09:29 AM

I've also seen at least one repower video on you tube. Someone put a vtwin vanguard in a 140. Very nice setup.

#50 Lawnguy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2011 - 07:03 AM

So yesterday I stopped down to the auto parts store and picked up some valve grind compound and a nifty suction cup tool to "Lap" the valve (pic 1). The directions said to apply ample amount to the valve (pic 2). Realized after lapping the first valve that I could'of used half that amount. Insert the valve carfully and attach the suction cup and start rotating. I don't think it matters, but I rotated clockwise (pic 3). I could defeniatly hear a grinding noise as I was twisting. I didn't count, but if I had to guess I think I twisted about 20 times before removing the valve and wiped the excess compound off with a damp rag. you will see a groove forming on the valve. I repeated this process a couple times until the grinding noise completley went away. you can feel the compound setting up and the valve will turn without making any noise. Even though my old valves were okay and within spec, I went ahead used the new valves that I got such a great deal on.

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#51 Lawnguy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2011 - 07:08 AM

This is just a picture of the new intake valve seal. Real easy to install. Just simply push it on the guide and you can feel it snap into the groove. I have to wait until Monday to reinstall the valve springs. I need to stop back down to the tool rental place and borrow their spring compressor again.

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#52 Lawnguy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2011 - 09:48 AM

try a search for "weekendfreedommachines" and search on there for "repower"


thanks for the info Travls, I did some reading on that site and its nice to know I have other options just in case I mess this rebuild up :)
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#53 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2011 - 11:33 AM

With the lapping tool, the best way to use them is to hold it between both flattened palms, then work the tool back & forth in a reciprocating fashion. But if done carefully, a single direction will do alright as well.

#54 Lawnguy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2011 - 06:15 PM

Thanks for the great advise cowhand. Another newbie mistake I made was to install the new valve seal before putting the lifter in. I had to remove it in order get the lifter back in.

#55 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2011 - 06:22 PM

Thanks for the great advise cowhand. Another newbie mistake I made was to install the new valve seal before putting the lifter in. I had to remove it in order get the lifter back in.


I should have thought of that, but been a while since having lifters out of one.

#56 Lawnguy OFFLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2011 - 03:03 PM

Hey everyone, not to much to report today. Got poison Ivy Sunday night and have been miserable all week! Tuesday I was able to reinstall the valve springs, so today I'm just setting the valve lash. The book say's turn the flywheel clockwise until the intake valve open and closes, continue turning past until you hit hit TDP. Just means both valves must be closed and the piston at the top of its stroke. My engine is allready tore apart, but I guess you could pull the spark plug and stick a small screwdriver in to feel the piston. First pic just shows me using my feeler gauge to check the clearance. .005 for the intake, and .013 for the exhaust. Second pic just shows me using a 9/16" and 7/16" wrench to adjust the lifter. I turned the motor and checked a few times after initial adjustment just to be sure.

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#57 Lawnguy OFFLINE  

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Posted November 05, 2011 - 03:06 PM

Just a couple pic's of my tractors since I had the camera out already :smile1:

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#58 Lawnguy OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2011 - 01:33 PM

Couple new gaskets (110-3709) for the valve covers. They are not symmetrical so gotta watch what way you put them on. Refered back to some before pictures so I knew the orientation of the manifold breather outlet. Book say'd tighten to 18 in lbs, but to be honest I tightened it until I could feel the cover start to flex.

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#59 Lawnguy OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2011 - 02:03 PM

Installed the new piston rings (113-0314) on the pistons. Thought it was pretty cool that the rings came in a holder that told you exactly where each ring went and how to orientate it. saved me from having to look it up. My neighbor came over with a ring compressor and helped me install the pistons. Sorry no pic's, but all we had to do was tap them in and line the rods back up with the crank. I did make sure that we put the same piston back in the same cylinder and orientation as I had previously marked. I could only get the torque wrench on the most out nut of the rod cap, so tightened the inner nut as close as I could to how the torqued one felt. Maybe someone knows a better way to do it?

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#60 Lawnguy OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2011 - 02:14 PM

Once I got the pistons installed, I installed the heads. Two new head gaskets (110-3181). Made sure that the spark plug hole lined up over the intake valve to know which side was which. Took the 5 longest bolts out of 9 and put it thru the thickest part of the head which is up by the spark plug. There is a torque sequence that works from the middle out. So far so good, everything is going back togeather pretty decent.

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