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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
Posted May 22, 2013 - 02:13 PM
Daniel, Boy that Yammar sounds good and sooth. Time to test drive it.
Very Nice!!
No test drive without a radiator mount & battery box as well. I'd punch the bottom out of the aluminum radiator in a flash. May work a little more on it tonight, but after being down on the ground putting in concrete anchors at the parlor, my knees are crying foul, and foul words were coming outta my mouth! 
Time for a few minutes to recuperate.
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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
Posted May 22, 2013 - 02:50 PM
Decided to go with a completely separate oil cooler for the hydro. There will be room below the battery & air cleaner for the small electric fan & cooler I just bought off ebay. There went all but $13 I had in Paypal, but going to a good cause. Now I just need some sort of thermo switch to turn it on at the right temp. Hoping to place it to draw air from the rear toward engine. This should provide cooler air to it than if I pulled air from the front, which will be heated air from the engine radiator.
Edited to add...... On second thought, I think it would be much simpler to just add a toggle switch to kick on the hydro cooling fan manually. Once running several minutes, I figure I could flip it on & just leave it on, except in the winter when I may not need it to run at all.
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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
Posted May 22, 2013 - 03:07 PM
Because the radiator will be stuck out front, I will have to build a STRONG case to protect it. The broad red lines show the front cage frame with brace tubes going back to the loader towers. The black lines in front will be expanded steel. The dots represent where the hood will lay on the top, with no grill, just the frame with expanded steel serving as the grill. As you can see, I'm not good with Gimp. LOL
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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
Posted May 22, 2013 - 06:19 PM
Changed my mind....gonna add an automatic switch for the hydro cooler. Found this adjustable one that I can set wherever I want between 140 to 180 degrees. Standard operating temp for most hydro's is 180. I'll make a block that this sensor can bolt up to and likely set it to 160. I'll also make a cover of some sort, but this will be under the plastic tunnel cover for protection also. There went all but $2 that's still in Paypal. I operate my tractor hobby from what I sell whenever possible, so I need to go ultra low buck from here on out.
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FORDoholic
Posted May 22, 2013 - 06:26 PM
It sounds great!
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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
Posted May 22, 2013 - 07:17 PM
Welded a 5 1/2" channel-iron extension to the front of the frame. This will be the platform for the radiator and the grill/guard frame. Then it hit me I still had a front bumper I'd taken off another Massey a few years ago. The brackets on the bumper fit exactly between the channel iron. So this bumper will get bolted on after all else is finished.
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Member
Posted May 22, 2013 - 08:59 PM
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Tractorholic
Posted May 22, 2013 - 09:04 PM
If you can finish this project on that $2.00, you need to write a book. Did I mention that I want the first copy. 
Your front bumper looks good.
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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
Posted May 22, 2013 - 09:30 PM
It's a little late but a hot water heater thermostat would work. Well it should.
Sent from my HTC One VX using Tapatalk 2
A hot water thermostat works opposite to what I need. I need to connect a circuit at a higher temp, while a water heater thermostat breaks the circuit when a higher temp is reached.
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Posted May 22, 2013 - 09:54 PM
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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
Posted May 23, 2013 - 08:17 AM
True but a relay would reverse that lol
Sent from my HTC One VX using Tapatalk 2
You just wanna spend money I don't have David! 
I had to do just what you described on a milk parlor washer drain. It worked the opposite of what the control box does. So I had to install an "on/off" relay to make the power drain work with the control box.
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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
Posted May 23, 2013 - 02:56 PM
Been all afternoon shortening the wiring harness that came off the Gator. About 5' of extra wiring, which was too much just to loop up & stuff in the dash. Risk of wires rubbing & shorting out. So I un-taped it all, then began removing wiring that has no purpose in the tractor. Removed several wires & one whole sub-harness with relays for whatever the Gator used. This sub-harness just plugged into the main, so that was easy. Then I cut out 5' of the entire harness, soldering & shrink wrapping each joint. Once finished & everything tested to still be working perfectly, I tape wrapped the now short section that was exposed.
Tons still to do: Battery box mounted, air filter housing mounted, radiator guard to build, hood to lengthen, fuel tank to figure out, hydro cooler to install once it arrives.........the list goes on forever. So Brian (TD&H), it's still gonna be quite some time getting this repower done.
Edited to add:
I measured the wire removed, and it was 7' that I shortened the harness!
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FORDoholic
Posted May 23, 2013 - 03:30 PM
But your getting there, Daniel. That will be such a sweet machine for you!
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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
Posted May 25, 2013 - 02:10 PM
Nothing the last couple days. Trans cooler should arrive Tuesday. Kind of all on hold till that comes, as I need to mount it before the battery tray.
Need to pick up some square steel tube to be able to build the radiator/grill guard.
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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
Posted May 28, 2013 - 05:20 PM
At least one thing went right today. My engine oil cooler off a 2002 Polaris 325 came in today, which I bought off Ebay. It is a PERFECT fit under where I need to place the battery tray. Just the right clearances! AND the hoses that came with it fit the JIC fittings on the hydro lines! Just need to fab the mounts & she'll work great! Fan runs like new too!
In the pic of the cooler lines, I have a JIC fitting off a Sundstrand hydro screwed onto one of the cooler lines.
