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Suburban exhaust


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#1 Clippnalawn OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2011 - 11:11 PM

I recently bought a suburban 400 with the kohler k91 4hp engine, it is missing the carburetor and the exhaust pipe that runs up to the front of the tractor. I was wondering if anyone on here had one laying around they would like to sell or could point me in the direction for tracking down these parts(other than ebay). I life in northwest washington and wheel horses are a little scarce around here. Thanks in advance!

#2 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2011 - 11:01 AM

If I remember correctly, the exhaust is just pipe fittings. E-bay is about the only place to find a Carb. for that engine..Sorry!!

#3 MikesRJ OFFLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2011 - 09:27 AM

The correct carburetor is a #18, #20, or #22 Carter N model carburetor. NOT a cheap part ($50-$75 is common for a non-rebuilt one) and reasonably difficult to find in good condition. You may want to contact Brian Miller for a rebuilt carburetor, ask if they have one of the mentioned sizes on hand (WARNING: $125.00 + S/H): http://gardentractor....com/a1carb.htm

If you take a look at the following manual for the Suburban 400 it details the pipes required. The pipe used is standard 3/4" Black Pipe available at any home store or plumbing supply place.
http://www.mywheelho...-550_OM-IPL.pdf

The dimensions of the pieces are (pipe length dimensions are measured from center of threads to center of threads, not the entire length of the pipe):
Item 15 (WH p/n: 3487, "Nipple Pipe"): 3/4" x 1" long nipple
Item 16 (WH p/n: 3488, "Nipple Pipe"): 3/4" x 14-1/2" long Black Pipe
Item 17 (WH p/n: 3489, "Elbow"): 3/4" to 3/4" 90 degree Black Pipe Elbow
Item 18 (WH p/n: 3490, "Elbow"): 3/4" to 3/4" 45 degree Black Pipe Elbow
Item 23 (WH p/n: 1192, "Nipple, Close"): 3/4" x 1" long nipple ***

*** Though Wheel Horse called for a "close nipple" (normally interpreted as a 1" threaded black pipe nipple) for the nipple which the muffler threads into, I personally used a 2" to 3" pipe to keep the muffler away from the freshly painted hood. You choice of course, but I have done this to preserve the paint over the long haul. I also angled the last elbow down a little for the same reason. Shown below is a 2" nipple angled down about 20 degrees. Another word of advice is to paint the pipe with flat black high-temp grill paint to keep the pipe from rusting. I also did this after I noticed the pipe was rusting from the inevitable heating and cooling, and moisture condensation.

Posted Image

Edited by MikesRJ, September 11, 2011 - 11:33 AM.

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#4 Clippnalawn OFFLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2011 - 10:48 AM

Thank you for the great info!! The engine I have isn't threaded in the port, it has 2 1/4" studs so I'm guessing it isn't original..... I guess I wyo have to pick up a 3/4" pipe tap along with the pipe. Love this forum!!!

#5 MikesRJ OFFLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2011 - 11:32 AM

Your guess would be correct, if the engine has studs. The original engine (Kohler K91-31388A) was tapped/threaded for 3/4" pipe.

On a good note though, the hole that exists under that flange is almost exactly the correct size (within a few thousandths) of a 1/2" NPT (National Pipe Thread) pipe tap. You can get a 1/2" NTP pipe tap at any good home center or hardware store, stuff a small wad of paper towel in the exhaust port hole(to keep chips out of the exhaust port valve stem area), cut the threaded studs flush with the flange, tap the hole using plenty of oil, thread a 1/2" Close pipe nipple into the hole, and use a 1/2" to 3/4" 90 degree elbow. The reduced port size for that short distance will not effect the engine at all.

WARNING:
Be careful going to a 3/4" tapped hole on a studded engine. Most of them do not have the "meat" around the exhaust port channel to support a 3/4" pipe without making the wall thickness excessively thin. The block castings for the correct-spec engines had a bit more metal in that area. I suggest using my previous method, or find a correct-spec or threaded port engine. Another option, which is certainly a decent one, is to have a machine shop make you a flange with a threaded nipple pipe welded into it. Then you just bolt the new flange into place and start off the rest of the exhaust system with the 3/4" 90 degree elbow. You may need to replace the studs with shorter ones, but that's pretty cheap to do.

Edited by MikesRJ, September 11, 2011 - 11:42 AM.

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#6 Clippnalawn OFFLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2011 - 05:22 PM

I ordered one of those "universal 3/4" racing mower exhaust kits" off of ebay last week, if the flange is a direct fit then I'm going to try that route (cut and weld) for a nicer fit and finish. If not I will pull the studs and tap the port with 1/2 and step up to 3/4 the way you suggested. Thanks again!

#7 MikesRJ OFFLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2011 - 10:04 PM

I'll bet it was more expensive than a tap, a few pipes, and some elbows from Home Depot. I think you may be wasting your money. The exhaust pipe only comes away from the engine about 2", 90 degree bends forward, then gets u-bolted to the hood upright before moving forward to the last 45 degree elbow. Not sure if that exhaust will work for you other than supplying you with a flange to start welding onto.

Good luck.

Edited by MikesRJ, September 11, 2011 - 10:09 PM.


#8 Clippnalawn OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2011 - 10:19 PM

It was only $15 with shipping....figured for that amount it was worth trying, if the flange doesnt bolt up I will throw it on the shelf and use iron pipe.




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