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210, what did I fry?


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#1 1104JR OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2011 - 04:18 PM

I left the key on to my 1980 210 (10hp Kohler), I jumped the dead battery and started to mow, the engine would totally die about every 5-10 minutes of mowing, I tried turning the key off and back on and moving to neutral but I had to re-start it in neutral after it sat a few seconds. Not sure if I burnt the points but wondered if some one has experienced this and figured out its the coil or condenser or something else that could save me some time.

I appreciate any advise

Thanks

#2 better before OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2011 - 05:48 PM

I would say start with the points. If they were in contact while the key was on, they are probably ruined. I had a similar instance with my 1975 210 (how I bought it). It would start hard, and couldn't hardly idle it down without it dying and the restart was almost non-existant. Replaced the coil and wahlah, set the carb back to what it should be and reset the idle. It starts and runs better than new now.

#3 Littledeere OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2011 - 09:46 PM

Also the chargeing system on these are made to mantain a charge on the battery not charge it win dead
So charge that battery before you have more trouble.Take it to a parts store if you don't have a reg battery charger some will charge it for you for free

#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2011 - 06:19 AM

Check the points to see if they are pitted or stuck. They may be OK but you should check the gap at the least.

#5 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2011 - 07:32 AM

I bought a '76 John Deere 200 a few years ago, and the previous owner said, that the tractor would run fine for a little while, then shut off. After letting the tractor sit for an hour, he'd go back out, start the tractor, and continue mowing until it would shut off again. He finally had enough and decided to look for something else. I brought the tractor home, replaced the coil and points, and added fresh gas. The tractor started right up. I ran it for a little while, and sure enough, the tractor would die after about 15-30 minutes. My only thing was, I couldn't get it to start right away. Getting mad, I walked away and left it sit. Like the previous owner, I'd come back after a while, and the tractor would start. I checked the points push rod, and found out that when I turned the tractor over by hand, the fiberglass push rod was sticking, and wasn't moving in and out like it should, which in turn wouldn't cause spark. I didn't have a metal or aluminum push rod, so I sized up a 16 penny common nail, cut it to length, filed the ends, and rounded the corners so it wouldn't catch the sides of the block opening, stuck it in, reset the points gap, and I haven't had a problem since. I've used this nail method numerous times. If your points rod is sticking, it won't allow the tractor to start. Double check this simple technique, as it may keep you from spending a lot of uneccesary money.

Hope it works out for you, and keep us informed of your progress!
Troy
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#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2011 - 03:30 PM

I bought a '76 John Deere 200 a few years ago, and the previous owner said, that the tractor would run fine for a little while, then shut off. After letting the tractor sit for an hour, he'd go back out, start the tractor, and continue mowing until it would shut off again. He finally had enough and decided to look for something else. I brought the tractor home, replaced the coil and points, and added fresh gas. The tractor started right up. I ran it for a little while, and sure enough, the tractor would die after about 15-30 minutes. My only thing was, I couldn't get it to start right away. Getting mad, I walked away and left it sit. Like the previous owner, I'd come back after a while, and the tractor would start. I checked the points push rod, and found out that when I turned the tractor over by hand, the fiberglass push rod was sticking, and wasn't moving in and out like it should, which in turn wouldn't cause spark. I didn't have a metal or aluminum push rod, so I sized up a 16 penny common nail, cut it to length, filed the ends, and rounded the corners so it wouldn't catch the sides of the block opening, stuck it in, reset the points gap, and I haven't had a problem since. I've used this nail method numerous times. If your points rod is sticking, it won't allow the tractor to start. Double check this simple technique, as it may keep you from spending a lot of uneccesary money.

Hope it works out for you, and keep us informed of your progress!
Troy


Thanks, I had no idea that they ever used a fibreglass push rod. Thats something to keep in mind.

#7 1104JR OFFLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2011 - 04:53 PM

OK so reporting back I charged the battery for a couple days and my 210 stalling problem went away Thanks Littledeere you solved it!
The main thing I've learned with old tractors is if it ain't broke don't fix it and go slow, be patient and try the easiest fix first and measure your results before tearing in and replacing parts before you have a clue whats causing the problem!

#8 SKasper OFFLINE  

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Posted September 24, 2011 - 08:05 AM

I have this exact same problem with my '76 JD 212. Since it was so intermittent and random I figured it had to be electrical, so little by little I replace everything in the ignition side...and it still happened once or twice over the summer. Funny thing is has NEVER happened when I'm plowing the driveway...

So, I will try the points push rod. I found a STENS part that is the Kohler Original part. It's STENS 055-461 (replaces Kohler 47-411-04s). It appears to be steel. I'm gonna give this a try (for $11 bucks at Amazon it's worth a try).

Good luck...
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