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New edition JD 140 H3


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#16 maddhorse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2011 - 06:49 PM

Yeah I caught that from the pics TMO linked. I have leaks every where, hydrolic and oil. I dropped the oil it was ugly, pale grey with nice shiny metalic flakes. Its my first Hydrolic lift and my JD dealer says that the lines are no longer available. So I am going to be bending some pipe. I have double flare tool it should not be bad. Actually I think I might be in over my head. I have read different things about what fluid should go in transmission and does the trans work as a pump for the hydro. Is the resvoir realy under the fender were you can just check it? I am sure I will figure it out but I think I went up a level. I rebuilt a 1970 chevy and I do all the automotive repairs here at the house and it does not seem as complex as this. I am still pretty happy no remorse just need to do some home work.

#17 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2011 - 06:57 PM

Maddhorse, have you got a manual for this tractor? It should say what fluid to use. Good luck with the piping. You might look into a hyd. supplier. They should be able to make new hoses for you.

#18 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2011 - 07:36 PM

Yeah I caught that from the pics TMO linked. I have leaks every where, hydrolic and oil. I dropped the oil it was ugly, pale grey with nice shiny metalic flakes. Its my first Hydrolic lift and my JD dealer says that the lines are no longer available. So I am going to be bending some pipe. I have double flare tool it should not be bad. Actually I think I might be in over my head. I have read different things about what fluid should go in transmission and does the trans work as a pump for the hydro. Is the resvoir realy under the fender were you can just check it? I am sure I will figure it out but I think I went up a level. I rebuilt a 1970 chevy and I do all the automotive repairs here at the house and it does not seem as complex as this. I am still pretty happy no remorse just need to do some home work.


Sorry to hear you have some problems with the 140. Pretty much any of the older tractors will require some work. The amount depends on how well they were maintained and how many hours are on them. When in doubt about the fluid just go to the JD dealer and get what is recommended. It's 4$/quart and you need 5 so it's not a big investment. The transmission does supply the flow for the hydraulics. If you have built brake lines for a car you can do the hydraulic lines. Hoses can be made at any hydraulic shop. You really need to get as much documentation as you can before digging into it. There are some 140 documents in the manuals section. If your ser. No. is more than 30000 then the transmission is the same as the 300 series. The frame, steering and axles are also nearly the same so the manual for the 300's may be of assistance as well.
Just tackle one issue at a time. I had the same deal with the 314 I got in April. I have been working on it since and it is now in pretty good shape. It takes time and unfortunately money to get these older GT's in good shape but it is still much cheaper than trying to buy a new equivalent GT.

#19 Tmo OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2011 - 07:43 PM

Here is the service manual for the earlier 140s: 140 Hydrostatic Tractor - Serial 30,001- SM-2093 - Manuals - Garden Tractor Talk - Forums
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#20 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2011 - 07:55 PM

madhorse, The pump in the trans axle is also the hydro pump, they are the same. The dipstick under the back of the seat is where you check and add hydro oil. If you change the oil and filter, you can use DEXTRON III tranny fluid. I always use the J.D. Hydro oil for GT's, but a lot of people use tranny fluid. As long as you can find the tee's to fit the hydro fittings at the valve body and can buy the quick couplers, you can run hydraulic hoses to the rear of the tractor. I hope this helps.
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#21 maddhorse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2011 - 08:41 PM

I appreciate the help from every one. Got the link thank you TMO also the DEXRON III TD&H I will take advantage of that tip. I have done more than a few brake lines so I should be good there JD. Kenny you are always on here and with some positive note, Hey thanks to all for the help it's really not that bad it has just been one of those days. Doing some thing new and it seemed every half hour I had to run off to do some medial task, come back and try to pick up where I left off. I am now done crying my 6yr old told me to grow up.

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#22 Sergeant OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2011 - 12:21 AM

I just use Hy Guard Low Vis in my140H3 Which is what Most deere dealers will Put in them at Least the service Dept my Younger brother runs at the Deere dealer if Your Loking for Hard Lines and Don't want to make them check with either of these JD Bone Yards

Home Page J D Lawn Tractor
TractorSalesAndParts.com - Hundreds of Used Tractors & Parts!
and I have even seen Hard Lines for 140's Go Pretty cheap on ebay:thumbs:


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#23 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2011 - 04:44 AM

A question. What does the H3 mean? There is another thread with a 140 H1. Just trying to figure out what these numbers stand for.

#24 maddhorse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2011 - 05:15 AM

The H1 has 1 in and 1 out hydrolic port and 1 lever The H3 has 3 levers and 3 in and 3 out ports. You understand how it all works better than I but from what I understand I can have 3 implements hooked up plow, mower, tiller I can mow whithout lowering the other two. I also have four ports on the front that allow me to raise and lower as well as tilt blade. Also from the way I understand you can add to the H1 as well as the 318 and most likely others.

#25 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2011 - 05:23 AM

Okay. It's just a designation for how many in/out hyd. ports/levers you have. I learn something new every day here.

#26 Tmo OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2011 - 06:00 AM

The 140H3 is an highly sought after tractor due to it's triple hydraulics.

#27 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2011 - 06:23 AM

Okay. It's just a designation for how many in/out hyd. ports/levers you have. I learn something new every day here.


Kenny, It's pretty rare for a GT to have 3 circuits. The newer ones only had 2. Having 3 allows you to have an independent deck lift and also have a blade with lift and angle without any issues. I had a x475 that had 2 circuits and in the winter when I had the blade on, I had to disable the 3pt. hitch with a diverter valve so that the angling would work without a delay. The 3pt/deck lift shared one of the levers with the blade angle. So having 3 circuits is a really nice feature and may be unique to the 140H3 .

#28 maddhorse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2011 - 06:45 AM

Can you upgrade to a three way or do you need to upgrade the pump as well? Is the effort not worth the pay back?

#29 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2011 - 06:57 AM

Thanks, guys for the explanation of all this. I understand the hyd. part completely, just didn't know the H3, etc. designation for it. Wish I had bought the parts I found on epay for the LGT 165. Extra cyl. and valve for $10 each. That was a DUH! moment. Maybe I can fool around and have the one and only 68 H3.:bigrofl:

#30 maddhorse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2011 - 12:28 AM

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