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Kohler K341AQS engine mounts


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#1 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2011 - 08:47 AM

Last night I finally got the covers of this new to me mower and started looking it over. the rear mounts are worn to the point that nothing is holding the engine in place back there. JD Dealer is closed until Tuesday so I am left to find a suitable replacement (even if only temporary).

My first thought would be to find a solid steel mount, bushing, stack of washers, etc to hold everthing together until I can get the rubber mount, or I can try to find some 1/4 to 3/8 thick rubber and sandwich it between a couple fender washers. Surely someone has come up against this before. We have a Tractor Supply not far from the house and I plan to pay them a visit after I finish my coffee. But I thougth I would throw this out there to see what others think.

#2 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2011 - 10:01 AM

I would opt to just have it mounted solid for now until you get the new bushings from the dealer. Tractor supply does have a rubber mat they sell by the foot and I think it is in different thicknesses as well. Would be good for some cushion between the washers like you mentioned.

#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2011 - 10:12 AM

The important thing is to not run it with the engine loose. You want any temporary mount to be pretty solid in left/right and front to back movement. The rubber mounts allow the engine to move more or less up and down only. You need to check the front ones carefully to make sure they are not shot as well. I would also look at the drive shaft couplers to make sure they are not damaged. Rotate the shaft by hand in both directions. There should not be any slack in it. This is common collateral damage from running it with bad mounts.

#4 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted September 04, 2011 - 09:44 PM

Okay, after a good degreasing, I found the back motor mount bolts loose and the rubber stiff and weather checked. So to get me by for the time being I have added an 1/8" thick x 2" dia rubber washer to the top of the existing rubber mount and a 1/16" thick x 2" dia steel fender washer on top of that to spread the weight. I found a missing pop rivet on on of the front mounts which allowed it to twist. Got the rivet replaced and all of the motor mounts re-torqued. There is almost no movement now. The drive shaft doesn't have any play in it so I'm pretty confident that I've caught it before any major damage.

Thanks for the input nutndun and Brian. She is all buttoned up and ready to mow tomorrow. :)

#5 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2011 - 07:32 AM

Glad you found a cheap fix that will prevent further damage.

#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2011 - 07:44 AM

One thing to watch out for when changing the height of the mounts. If you move the rear of the engine up or down it will change the alignment of the engine coupling to the shaft. The flexible discs on the ends of the shaft have to absorb this misalignment. It is best to keep the height as close to possible to original. When you replace the mounts loosen the 2 bolts at the engine end of the drive shaft coupler so you can see the gap between the engine and the flexible disc. The gap should be the same at the top of the disc as the bottom. The new mounts are usually higher than used ones, which sag with the years, and you may need to compensate by shimming up the front mounting brackets to keep the engine level. I had to do this when I replace my rear mounts. The gap was larger at the top then at the bottom, indicating that the back of the engine was tipped up a bit.
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#7 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2011 - 09:06 AM

Yes, I thought about the change in driveshaft angle. 3/16" shouldn't make much difference in driveshaft angle. I didn't give much thought to sagging motor mounts though. Anyone know of an after market source for the mounts? I wonder if they could be had at McMaster-Carr?

#8 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2011 - 11:28 AM

Actually 3/16" is quite a bit. The discs that absorb any misalignment have a limit to how much they can flex. You may want to back off the bolts on the coupler, with the shaft positioned so that the bolts are top and bottom. If a gap opens up at the top bolt then you should try to shim up the front of the motor to close that up. Otherwise every time the shaft turns the discs are flexing by the amount of the gap.

#9 DHCowboy OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2011 - 12:21 PM

Greetings!
New to the forum here, picked up myself a nice little 212 form 1982 and in one day have somehow managed to see the front plate that goes between the motor mounts crack in half. What the hey? No abuse or the like, was just mowing (I do have a slightly rough yard in spots..?) and when cleaning it up afterwards, noticed the broken plate. (know it wasn't broken before the mow, as I had painted the grill and plate/front end same time I was changing oil and such)
Any idea on how to fix? Replacing the part isn't an option with no income at this time.. Add another layer of steel maybe? I don't have a welder.. :-/
Cheers and howdys all around!

#10 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2011 - 07:04 PM

Perhaps you could post a few pics of the broken part. It's hard to tell exactly what part you are referring to.

#11 DHCowboy OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2011 - 12:01 PM

Might be able to do that once we get the camera back... ;-) It's a thick steel piece that runs from side/side on top of the rubber mounts and seems to drop down to the engine. If you lift on it, the engine raises and lowers a bit along with the prying.. Left-hand part seems to be broken off the main portion.

#12 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2011 - 04:08 PM

In this diagram of the 316 frame is it part 25 that is broken or number 22 or 28 the motor brackets. If it is the frame or brackets that are broken you need to get that repaired before using the tractor again. The damage will only increase if you use it. Those brackets can come loose if they are not tightened properly after the engine has been removed for service. I know this from personal experience.:booboo: I had to remove my engine a second time to properly tighten the bolts that mount the bracket to the engine, after I forgot to tighten them when reassembling the tractor.

M22383F________UN01JAN94.jpg

#13 sgtrock1976 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2011 - 04:29 PM

About to tear into my 316K. thanks for giving me something else to check.

#14 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2011 - 06:02 PM

About to tear into my 316K. thanks for giving me something else to check.


No problem Sarg. It will really make a mess if you ignore broken mounts, so it's better to just deal with it.




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