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#1 Closha63 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2011 - 04:44 PM

I had a problem with my battery being dead all the time so i checked the battery and found that it was low. I charged the battery and decided to check my charging system. I did find that the regulator is putting out 18v at full throttle so either my high throttle is set to high or my regulator is bad. I purchased a used one off line and found that i get the same results. Would it be that the charging of the battery should be 18v at full? I did find that when sweeping the throttle up it will go from Volt's to m-Volts's. It really does not want to seem to put out voltage when at idle. I followed the flow chart to check the charging system and the only thing i found was that it puts out 18v, everything else is in spec. So please if some-one can help.

#2 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2011 - 04:47 PM

I don't think you should see the voltage going over 14 1/2 to possibly 15VDC. 18 seems way too high. May be the rectifier in the regulator went bad & it is tossing out AC voltage?

#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2011 - 08:30 PM

Is this 18volts with the battery installed or with it disconnected? Are you measuring at the battery or at the regulator? Open circuit voltage could be higher but should not be 18v with the battery connected. If the battery is good it would never reach 18 volts on a 15amp alternator. Check your connections from the engine chassis to the battery - terminal as well as from the regulator to the battery. If there is a blown fuse/breaker or a bad connection the regulator would be unloaded and you will possibly measure a higher voltage. It depends on how the regulator is designed. Some will not operate properly without a load.

#4 Closha63 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2011 - 09:13 PM

I am measuring with the engine at full throttle with battery connected at the B+ on the regulator. I dont see how it would drop the 4v throw the wire to the switch and battery. Im to the point of wanting to buy another regulator but i kind of like the diag part to figure out why so please more helpful information

#5 ncb OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2011 - 09:57 PM

are you sure the battery itself isnt the problem , ive had several batterys that seemed ok till you walk away for an hour or two. I believe the batterys sulfated and shorted internally . maybee try disconnecting from GT and charge froma regular battery charger , leave disconnected from tractor for the nite and check the voltage the next day. if the voltage has dropped overnite the battery is probably pooped . 18 volts is definately suspicious . also with the neg disconnected stick a meter between the negative post and the negative wire with all things shut off on the tractor , there should be no draw. set the meter for amps for that test .

Edited by rexknightly, September 01, 2011 - 10:05 PM.


#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2011 - 06:58 AM

I am measuring with the engine at full throttle with battery connected at the B+ on the regulator. I dont see how it would drop the 4v throw the wire to the switch and battery. Im to the point of wanting to buy another regulator but i kind of like the diag part to figure out why so please more helpful information


Ok, you have 18volts at the regulator output. Do you have 18volts at the battery. If the battery is reading a normal value of 12.5-14volts then there is a bad connection between the regulator and battery. As I said above, a battery should not read 18volts. If it does it is defective or being charged by a huge current, which is not the case here.
You have to make sure you have a good connection between the regulator and + battery and also between the engine chassis and the battery - terminal.
At this point I would disconnect the battery and use an ohm meter to check the connections. When the key is on, you should have a low resistance between the regulator output and the terminal for the + side of the battery. You should also see a low resistance from the metal regulator case to the - battery terminal.
The regulator could be faulty but your voltage readings are not making sense. You need to do a little more troubleshooting to find the actual problem. Let us know what you find.

#7 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2011 - 07:08 AM

I found the 316 wiring diagram. You can follow the regulator output Lt green wire through the ignition switch and out on the red wire to the ammeter etc to the battery + terminal. This should help make some sense of it.

316 wiring .jpg

Edited by JDBrian, September 02, 2011 - 02:43 PM.


#8 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2011 - 10:04 AM

Any chance that your losing the ground on the regulator case ? But being you changed the regulator this is just a shot in the dark . Al

#9 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2011 - 07:08 PM

Any chance that your losing the ground on the regulator case ? But being you changed the regulator this is just a shot in the dark . Al


That is a possibility. The connection needs to be there from the module case back to the battery-. With a rubber mounted engine there has to be a separate wire back to the battery. The regulator will not work without this connection. Sometimes it's easy to take the chassis connection for granted and that is a mistake as it is just as important as the + side. I hope he gets it sorted out.

#10 Closha63 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2011 - 08:46 PM

Well i guess I have some things to check out. I haven't had time lately due to the Tractor show and sale at Williams Grove. Hoping to get some nice deals tom. i found some nice JD's like a nice 400 and i think a 430 or 450 not sure but if the price is right they will be mine. Any way i will try some things most likely tom night on Monday since i have off work. Thanks for the helpful hints too. Until my next post/problem....... HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

#11 Closha63 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2011 - 05:18 PM

Ok. I looked a little more into the charging. The only thing i checked was some voltage. I found that I am still getting about 18V at the B+ terminal on the regulator but I have 12.54V at the battery positive end. What is that about. How does it drop so many volts through the wire?

#12 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2011 - 10:00 PM

How does it drop so many volts through the wire?

If your testing it with the wire connected it sounds like you found your problem , bad crimp , broken wire or bad connection I would think .

#13 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2011 - 06:16 AM

There is a bad connection or an open circuit somewhere between the red wire and the battery. Use the diagram that I posted above to follow the circuit and find the culprit. The red wire goes to the ammeter and then current flow is from the ammeter to the circuit breaker to the solenoid to battery +. You should be able to nail down the problem pretty easily now. Good luck and let us know what you find. Keep in mind that a connection may look OK on the outside but may be corroded at the actual contact. Also look for any blackened or melted wires/ connectors etc.

#14 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2011 - 06:40 AM

Just looked at the wirng diagram , did you check the ignition switch ? Key ON engine OFF I think you should have battery voltage at the REG termnial on the switch for the wire going to the regulator B+ . Al




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