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316 with Kohler running rich?


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#1 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2011 - 09:06 AM

Going to pick this thing up tonight. Last night it seemed to be running rich (soot on the engine shroud) and idling rough. Does anyone know which carburator was put on these? How do you adjust them? Also, I understand motor mounts can become worn and need replacing which I'll take a look at when I get it.

Do these things have a balanced crankshaft? It sure seems rough.....

#2 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2011 - 09:14 AM

Going to pick this thing up tonight. Last night it seemed to be running rich (soot on the engine shroud) and idling rough. Does anyone know which carburator was put on these? How do you adjust them? Also, I understand motor mounts can become worn and need replacing which I'll take a look at when I get it.

Do these things have a balanced crankshaft? It sure seems rough.....


You can download the Kohler service manual from Kohler or from this site and it has information on how to identify which carb. you have and how to service/adjust it. The JD 300 series service manual is also now in the manuals section as well. Motor mounts can be a problem and you need to inspect them carefully and try moving the engine while watching each mount. The rear ones tend to go first. Also check the driveshaft couplers.
The original 300 was nearly identical to the 316 and had the counter balancer. The later 316 and 312/314 did not have the balancer.
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#3 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2011 - 10:02 AM

Wow, THANKS! Great info there.

I plan to take some as-is pictures before I start. and again when I get the covers off. I want to document everything I do to this old timer. If for nothing else, but to show my wife that you can make a silk purse out of a sows ear. If it looks as bad under the covers as what I have seen so far, I think its already found its name....Hay Seed.

#4 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2011 - 07:04 AM

It's home! I spent a couple hours last night just looking it over to get an idea of it's condition. Seems to have been well cared for. Lots of old grease in the wear points. Speaking of, I was suprised at how many grease zert fittings there were. Anyway, I appreciate everyone responses and look forward to getting the old fluids out of it this weekend.

I was going to upload a photo, but my pc doess't recognize my SD card. Perhaps I can post one this weekend.

#5 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2011 - 07:15 AM

Congrats. on the new tractor Terry. These old 300 series are great candidates for restoration. They were well built and designed to be serviceable. If you run into any problems let us know and there should be someone who can help. I just got the 314 in my avatar in April and it was in really rough shape. A lot of work and parts have gone into it since, and it is really looking and working much better now. I had a lot of help from many people here to get it to this point.

#6 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2011 - 07:20 AM

Welcome and congrats on the one-year only 316k. Though you might appreciate this info from wfm.

Capable of using many of the same attachments as the JD 140, the 300 series of John Deere garden tractors began production with the 1975 model year. In that year, the hydrostatic model 300 was introduced, replacing the John Deere 140 and its seven-year production run. Although it shared many components from the 140, the 300 was upgraded to a 16HP Kohler K-series engine and had numerous styling changes. Major changes included a more squared off hood with integral headlights, engine side panels and a black plastic instrument panel. Realizing the liability of mounting a metal gas tank under the hood next to the battery, the model 300 had a plastic gas tank relocated under the rear fender pan with an increased capacity of 4.5 gallons. The John Deere 300 came equipped standard with a two-spool hydraulic lift system, a departure from the single or three-spool system available on the model 140. The charge pump and differential were largely unchanged from the 140, with the charge pump being manufactured by Sundstrand and the differential assembly by Dana. Individual rear wheel brakes also came standard on the model 300. Notably absent on the left side of the tractor was the clutch disconnect/ neutral return pedal found on the model 140. Identical to the model 300, the model 316 (Kohler powered) was manufactured during 1978 only. This particular model is often confused with the later series model 316, which was produced from 1984-1992. Being distinctly different tractors, there are few similarities between the early and late versions of the model 316. Manufactured briefly from 1977 to 1978, the model 312 provided a basic, no frills 300 series tractor with 12 HP Kohler engine, no engine side panels, no ammeter, H1 hydraulics, narrower rear tires, and a single brake pedal for both rear wheels. Headlights were an option on the 312.



#7 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2011 - 07:41 AM

Terry, glad you got the 314 home. The carbs are pretty easy to adjust and the manuals are usually spot on for the base setting of the needles. After you have adjusted a few carbs it almost becomes second nature and you can tell by the sound or the way it is running what it needs. Some carbs are more finicky then others. The Kohlers are by far my favorite engine though.
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#8 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2011 - 08:55 AM

Good deal. Glad to know that the carbs are easy to work on. I remember an old chevy that I had put a Holly 650 4 bbl on, and if the temp changed 10 degrees then it was out of whack again. Glad to hear that these aren't fussy.

I see a rebuild kit is available for around $12 or so. The guy I bought it from said that it uses about a gallon of gas per 1/8 acre. Maybe he's all wet, I don't know, but I do see a soot buildup next to the grill. I plan to degrease the carb this weekend, put some Seafoam in the gas tank and start tweaking the carb. If it don't go well, then I'll just rebuild it next week.

And thanks Travis. I appreciate the history and look forward to learning more about these. This thing really is a tank.

I dumped 1 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil in the engine last night and ran it a few minutes so it can start breaking up the sludge (if any). Hope to have it purring by next week.

#9 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2011 - 10:18 AM

I would suggest getting a full tank or two of Seafoam gas through the carb before I would begin adjustments. That would give it time to break down any build-up in the carb.

Another thought - Be careful on the seafoam gas too. I did a winterize with it and believe it removed the carbon build-up in the combustion chamber of my 1966 110. When it started it up the next spring the head gasket began leaking after some run time. Lapping the head and head gasket replacement turned out to be the best thing for the tractor. ;-)

#10 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2011 - 10:40 AM

Good point. I was thinking of just rebuilding the carb, but the local JD dealer tells me that most jets and float needles are unavailable - parts are getting scarce for the carb and most people just replace them entirely. The "rebuild" kit that they sell only has float bowl gasket and idle jet (i think). So, maybe it would be best to degrease the outside and perhaps close the mixture screw a bit and run it for a while first.

I HAVE to take the side covers off though. Not knowing how much buildup is behind there is driving me crazy.

Do you know if there was ever a pre cleaner foam filter on these. The dealer says no. Picking up an air filter on my way home tonight.

#11 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2011 - 12:55 PM

I don't think you need a rebuild kit for the carb. It sounds like you just need to tune it. The rebuild kits are nice for the ones that haven't run for years and have had gas sitting in the carb all that time, they can get pretty yucky but even then they are still cleanable, the main pieces I have ever needed out of one of the carb kits is the bowl gasket.

I can't help you with the prefilter but it definitely wouldn't hurt if you find one that fits the filter or the filter comes with one.

#12 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2011 - 02:35 PM

Thanks NutnDun. It's been a long time since I messed with anything this old except for the Missus. :)

I will clean up the linkage, check the choke rod to be sure it is opening all the way and then add the recommended amount of Seafoam (on the low side) to see what happens.

I feel the urge to mow.......

#13 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2011 - 02:43 PM

I just looked at JDParts and there is no pre filter for the 300/316. The funny thing is that my 314 has one and according to the parts diagrams it should not have one! It was optional for the early production 314 which had the round filter cover and did not have the air tube going to the blower housing.

#14 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2011 - 02:58 PM

That is what I've seen as well. It shows on some parts diagrams that I have seen, and there are references to oiling it with motor oil then wringing it out. But when I talk to the local JD dealer, he tells me that there isn't one. Go figure.

#15 MAV OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2011 - 10:01 PM

Terry D,
Welcome to GTtalk and congrats on the 316. These 16hp Kolhers will shake rattle and roll at an idle but will smooth out at higher RPM's. It just the character of them. As for the sooty side panel, alot that I have seen are that way. And as for the air filter precleaner I run one on mine alot of the time. You should be able to find one a any Kohler dealer. I run mine dry and wash it out with soap and water and let it air dry if nothing else in prolongs the life of the filter. I don't run it in the winter time though. I have found that the it is cheaper to by the air filter through Deere than it is through a Kohler dealer. As a matter of fact alot of the Kohler parts are cheaper through Deere that the Kohler dealers you just need to price around. On a side note I run Autolite 216 spark plug in mine. I would run it for a while and if you decide that you need to rebuild the carb check back with us . There are alot of knowledgable people on here that can walk you through it . These carbs are not that difficult to rebuild. You may want to go to the Kohler web site and download the service manuals for these engines and I believe these are free. It may very well beon here too.

Mark




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