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316 Hydro. lever controls


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#1 Closha63 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2011 - 09:12 PM

Well I mainly have most things done. I recently put the new coupler in with drive shaft. I am still tuning the carb some. I was thinking about some past threads that I have posted and someone said about the float feature on the hydro lever for the plow. Now i am confused on that. The lever that has the float feature is that the deck control? My float control is for the angle and the deck does not have that. Is their more information that i can read on this or any type of hydro. diagram that I can follow? Please help with advise. Also I know its early but what do most do for traction during plowing in the winter? I was thinking about making a ballast box or something to hang suitcase weights from the rear. I just bought my first house so money is tight but I want to try and prepair myself.... Pictures would be fantastic

#2 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 31, 2011 - 07:15 AM

According to what I can remember, when you look at the control valve under the tractor, the upper spool should run the rockshaft(deck lift) cylinder and also go to the left front outlets. It does not have the float feature. The lower spool has a longer cap on the back side of the valve. This is the float detent. The lower spool goes to the right front outlets.
When you mount the blade you connect the blade lift to the right side outlets and the angle to the left side. To make the angle work without a delay you need to prevent the rock shaft cylinder from moving. This can be done by using a diverter valve to prevent flow to the cylinder or by mechanically locking the cylinder in place using a fixed link to prevent movement. I'm not sure which method was commonly used on the 316. A little research should reveal what will work.
As far as winter traction for plowing, weight and chains are the 2 things. Chains are a necessity if you have any ice and/or a hill to plow up. Get the 2 link cross chain type. I think Sears still sells 2 link chains for 23x10.5/12 tires for a reasonable cost. You can try to find used ones as well. If you want cheap weight there are several ways to go. Used wheel weights and filled tires com to mind. Building some sort of weight bracket and casting a concrete weight or attaching weight lifting plates which can be had relatively cheaply is also inexpensive.
Wheel weight is more effective IMO because it does not add extra stress to the axle and does not unload the front wheels. I hope this info. helps.

#3 Closha63 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2011 - 04:50 PM

So for the float of the blade I should just switch the lines to the other set? The fixed link that was mentioned for the deck lift, what would happen if I leave the link on and try to lower the deck. Can it cause damage or not. For the weight I really don't want to use tire chains so more weight is my thing. I just don't want to fill my tires and I heard that the bolt on wheel weights are a pain to install and remove.... Any thoughts? For some reason I want to put suit case weights on the rear.. Can that cause damage to the transmission or axles? And with the added amount of weight, does this cause extra wear on the trans since it is hydro-static?

#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2011 - 08:20 PM

The deck would not lower if you left the link on. The hydraulics would build pressure until the relief valve released it and nothing would be damaged if it was only an occasional thing. I don't have a deck on my 314. You would normally remove it in the winter and install the front blade. I have weight brackets that I made to accept weight lifting plates. You take a piece of 1/4" plate that will fit inside the rim and weld 1" round stock to the centre of it. You drill holes for the rim weight mounting bolts and mount the plate to the rim. You then slide your weight plates on. I threaded the end of the 1" and use a bolt and washer to hold the weights on. I also drilled access holes for the wheel nuts so I don't have to take the bracket off to remove the wheel. I don't have any pictures here but I can get some if you are interested. I had about 80lbs/wheel on my x475 . I made a larger version for the 2320 and have about 180/side on it. It's pretty cheap to do if you have the tools to do the metal work. I just payed for the material and welding so they cost me maybe 40$ for the pair. I had the weight plates already. I've been buying them for years at yard sales and such.
You have to limit the extra weight on the back end because it will make the front end light and you can't steer. Adding a couple of suitcase weights would be fine and won't hurt the rear end or transmission. Wheel weight is better IMO. It does not load the axle and will not transfer weight off of the front wheels.

#5 Jakesfolly OFFLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2011 - 03:56 PM

Can you post some pictures of the wheel weights. I bought a pair of concrete in plastic molded housing but the housing is giving out and the concete is coming out. Either need to repair them if possible or replace them.

Jim

#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2011 - 04:08 PM

Heres a link to the thread where I describe them.
http://gardentractor...-pictures-8725/




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