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Fort LGT 14 D


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#16 lastdaze04 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2011 - 07:39 PM

Hey Cowhand, Thank-you for all your help. As far as the Rpm's go My Tach only goes to 3000 and I can almost bury it at 2900rpm. My gut feeling tells me that I should not be taking it to the limit for hours at a time. A short burst maybe ok but not not the whole 4 acre stretch. This is only a a small 14 hp diesel and my tach shows no pto point of reference to show me where my work range is, so I guess I will have to go slower(wish my deck was bigger) in this warm weather or I will be buying a new motor for the tractor. Any more thoughts?????:confuse:
Rick







I will check the rad caps on my diesels to see what psi they hold to, but I think your cap is ok. With your temps there, it's likely the cooling system is doing as good as it possibly can.
Most all diesels in GT's are designed to run anywhere from 3400 to 3650rpm, so your dealer is telling you wrong! I know my Kubota twin cylinder in 100 degree weather runs right against the hot line, but no spitting coolant. My JD F935 however spit a tiny amount out while mowing the other day while very hot out.
Running slower rpm's will lower overall running temps, but 2100 is too slow. Raise it to around 3 grand and don't crowd the mower deck & you should do ok. About the only thing you can do in that kind of heat is to add an electric radiator fan that can push more air . If it's the ambient temps causing this, then more air is your only answer, short of moving to cooler climate! LOL



#17 Gary Burnett OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2011 - 08:02 PM

I have a Ford 14D LGT diesel and running it around 3000RPM shouldn't hurt anything,might want to take the hood off in real hot weather to make it run cooler.They're basically the same engine thats in the Ford compacts like the 1210,I wouldn't lug it down though.Also make sure its getting plenty of fuel running lean will make them heat up in a hurry.
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#18 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2011 - 08:02 PM

I'm sure it's intended to run max rpm's while mowing, but I would drop it down to around 2600 so you'd be at or near your max torque range. This will give you the most pulling power & still be running fast enough to move plenty of air through your radiator. Your fan shroud is intact? Without a shroud, the fan can't pull nearly as much air through the radiator.
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#19 mikebramel OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2011 - 08:37 PM

With an old machine first thing I would do is Acid flush and pressure test the system. You can rent one at Autozone or what not. If you are looking to buy I have the Astro Pneumatic set which I would recommend only 100 something.
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#20 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2011 - 09:00 PM

AIR FILTER! Check to see it's not too dirty. Restricting air intake will heat them too. Just thought of this.
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#21 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2011 - 09:03 PM

might want to take the hood off in real hot weather to make it run cooler.


Ver good idea there too. My Cat 910 payloader had been running right against the red on the temp gauge. I opened the engine covers & rubber strapped them open & she's been running a bit cooler since.
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#22 lastdaze04 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2011 - 09:32 PM

Hi JDBrian: Thank you for participating in my thread. I agree with what you said> If it was my tractor I would want to know the rated and maximum speeds so I wouldn't overheat it.[/QUOTE] That is part of the reason why I joined this site.... I was hoping that someone would not mind sharing the information so as to help a fellow tractor owner out. So many of the dealers are more intrested in selling new tractors and new implements that older tractors like mine and others are pushed to the back burner, I've even found out that for my tractor, they don't even keep parts on hand anymore, the always have to order them. There are a few on this site who seem to know quite abit or have access to the information that they seem not to mind or even infact they quite enjoy sharing their information that they have with the rest of us:beerchug:. With that being said does somebody out there know what my operating Rpm range is????




[quote name='JDBrian']The HP race between JD and Kubota has seen them playing with the rpms that they rate their engines at. By rating them at higher rpm's they get a bigger number. The older versions of these small JD CUT's used lower HP engines that were rated at lower RPM's. With the higher rpms comes different gearing in the trans. to get the rated PTO speed to match up with engine max. power. It would be the same deal for mower decks running off the front PTO. The gearing would be designed to use the rated engine HP at the correct blade speed.
So for the Ford in this thread there would be a rpm corresponding to the correct pto speed to get the rated engine HP to the blades. If you run at a faster than rated speed there is more likely to be overheating issues with high ambient temps. I think that may have been what the dealership was getting at. If it was my tractor I would want to know the rated and maximum speeds so I wouldn't overheat it.[/QUOTE]

#23 lastdaze04 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2011 - 09:35 PM

That is a good idea!!! I also tried that as well as lower my RPM range while working in this hot weather...Nary a drop of radiator fluid showed its face ! ! ! Thanks



Ver good idea there too. My Cat 910 payloader had been running right against the red on the temp gauge. I opened the engine covers & rubber strapped them open & she's been running a bit cooler since.



#24 lastdaze04 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2011 - 09:40 PM

Hi Gary: Thanks for participating in this thread. Here is what I did. My LGT 14 D only has 900 hours on it. So today I went put in 1/3 of a small container of Lucas Diesel Fuel injector cleaner (hope this is not too much), Hoping that this will help it not to run lean.


I have a Ford 14D LGT diesel and running it around 3000RPM shouldn't hurt anything,might want to take the hood off in real hot weather to make it run cooler.They're basically the same engine thats in the Ford compacts like the 1210,I wouldn't lug it down though.Also make sure its getting plenty of fuel running lean will make them heat up in a hurry.



#25 Gary Burnett OFFLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2011 - 01:52 AM

On diesels since the Ultra Low Sulphur has come to be the fuel these days I add 1 ounce of 2 cycle oil to every gallon of fuel when I fill up or just add it to the can when you get diesel can tell the difference even in my 99 F550 Powerstroke.A study done a couple years ago that was going around said for lubrication 2 cycle oil was better than most any diesel additive also Marvel Mystery oil is good.
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#26 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2011 - 09:05 AM

My Massey 1010 runs is governed to around 2750rpm & rated at 16hp, but is almost the same displacement as the Yanmar engine in my JD F935 which runs 3650rpm, & rated at 22hp. The increased rpm's increases the HP, but decreases the peak torque. I would think if you decrease the torque that the engine efficiency would drop, working the engine a little harder, and raising the operating temp?
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#27 lastdaze04 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2011 - 01:40 PM

The results so far. I have removed the sides (better air flow around the motor), added lucas diesel fuel injector cleaner (to clean the injectors and hopefully make it run a little richer and cooler), added a bottle of Water Wetter to the radiator fluid (Said to help cool radiator temps by 8 degrees) and.......... I have mowed for 1 hr. and I have been able to run the rpm's up from 2100 to 2400. Now that is an improvement, mostly due in my opinion to removing the sides for better air movement. Side note,,,, went out to start it and move it closer to where I can rinse it off for some pics later, and I could swear that it was a little quiter and a little smoother. I want to thank everybody on this forum who chipped in with advice. You people are wonderful. This is how a community should work. Kudos to the Moderators also.
Rick

#28 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2011 - 02:16 PM

Glad you are getting it cooled down and running better. I agree this is a very special place and the tone for that is set by the moderators. If you have more questions don't hesitate to ask.
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#29 lastdaze04 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2011 - 02:44 PM

PICS R HERE. Courtesy of my wonderful daughter Nat,
as I am mostly computer Iliterate.

These are pictures with the sides off, the sides are in nice shape, not rusted out or dinged up nor do they have any holes, I think this is a nice original equipment as a person can have for appx 20 years old.

Would like a moment to say Hi to all. I have been for the past several days lurking and reading the wealth of information here. This site is the best that I've seen.
Now for the problem. I have a real nice looking Ford LGT 14 D Garden Tractor, it is about 20 years old and runs good. This year it has a particular problem. This week I was mowing and all the sudden it started to spit out the radiator water through the little vent tube where you add water/antifreeze. What's up? I hope its nothin serious as I don't have a bunch of money. Thank-you in advance for all advice given.
Rick


"Edited to add photos as promised. MOM'S CAMERA 013.jpg

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Edited by lastdaze04, August 27, 2011 - 03:04 PM.
PICS R Here


#30 lastdaze04 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2011 - 03:02 PM

My question is does it smoke at all when you this? If this is the case I could probably get by with adding a whole bottle (one of those little ones you find in the chain saw section at Lowes to my 3 or 4 (??? looks huge) gallon tank????

On diesels since the Ultra Low Sulphur has come to be the fuel these days I add 1 ounce of 2 cycle oil to every gallon of fuel when I fill up or just add it to the can when you get diesel can tell the difference even in my 99 F550 Powerstroke.A study done a couple years ago that was going around said for lubrication 2 cycle oil was better than most any diesel additive also Marvel Mystery oil is good.






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