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1971 120


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#241 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2012 - 09:05 AM

Good to hear from a user of these. I would think they would stay pretty clean inside. I'm sure they are much better than the ball/socket jobs.

#242 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2012 - 09:09 AM

Nope. Have the same end links on my Ransomes Bob Cat mower project and they have been on there and working since new. Actually, all the link connections on the machine, are of the type you have and everything works smoothly. MUCH better than the ball and socket type, that most machines come with. If they fit...you'll never need to replace them, again. :dancingbanana:

One other note: Those little holes on the side of the ball end link, that lead to the threads on the rod, use a drop of light weight oil in them and fill the hole with a dab of grease, and they will always be turnable by hand. Keeps the threads from getting gummed up.


Awesome Dave! That is exactly what I was looking for. After a conversation with a couple of people around town and your post, I am not at all worried about these. Now, time to order the parts to rebuild the steering assembly and steering link.

Edited by Trav1s, September 26, 2012 - 09:09 AM.


#243 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2012 - 05:36 PM

Carved out some time tonight to work on the 120 a bit more. I picked up a fiberglass repair kit and I am working on the hood. I hope to prime and paint it tomorrow. I got the h-3 levers finished and installed on the tractor but I still need to swap the valve and run the additional lines to complete the conversion.

The good news for the day is that I found the muffler support bracket that goes on the right side of the engine so I hit it with the wire wheel and some paint.

I am saving for an order from Kirkengines and John Deere. The Deere order to finish the steering column and the rest of the steering gear is gonna hurt at over $140. (I am replacing the center link while it is apart... $73).

#244 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2012 - 09:26 PM

A few pics from tonights work for your enjoyment. I will get some more pics tomorrow of the work that is not in these pics.

***NOTE: This is a worker, not a show tractor****


Center link that is getting replaced to the tune of $73...
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120 H1 valve next to 140 H3 valve
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Upgraded front steering pieces
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The hood in various stages of repair from today

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Edited by Trav1s, September 27, 2012 - 09:28 PM.


#245 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2012 - 03:52 AM

Just out of curiosity, couldn't you have gotten two more ends and made a new center link? Would be a lot cheaper. Those new ends look great on there! Hood looks to be coming along well.
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#246 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2012 - 06:27 AM

Still debating the idea of making a center link. I am not sure how to make is unless I use some threaded rod bent to the proper shape. The link is very heavy and does not flex which would be my concern about the threaded rod. Also, the clearances around the link are very tight. I am always open to suggestions.

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Edited by Trav1s, September 28, 2012 - 06:28 AM.


#247 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2012 - 06:46 AM

Is the link a solid bar? One way would be to cut enough off each end to weld a bolt with correct threads for the new ends to screw onto. Just have to make sure you have room for the new ends to clear things. If not, you may just have to buy a new link.

#248 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2012 - 07:02 AM

It is a solid piece. Cutting and welding would be an option but as it sits I could eBay it and make back some money. I am going to pick some brains around town today and will post some thoughts later.

#249 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2012 - 07:55 AM

Think about it. If you have close clearance, then the factory part is probably best there.

#250 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2012 - 10:14 AM

Spent some more time with the H3 parts while I am waiting for the detail work (filler) on the hood to dry. The H3 is a direct swap - when one uses the factory lines that go from the pump to the valve body. I don't have these and JDParts show them as NLA. The factory H1 lines are quite a bit different and cannot easily be tweaked to fit the H3 valve. :mad2: Time to see what I can come up with in this area.

As for the center link, I am going to just pick a new one up from Deere and ebay the old one. :rolleyes:

Edited by Trav1s, September 28, 2012 - 10:15 AM.

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#251 dave8338 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2012 - 12:24 PM

You might want to give these guys a look for the lines.

http://www.greenfarm...CFetdTAodhw-Y0Q

#252 Bmerf OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2012 - 12:54 PM

Any good shop that makes hydraulic lines should be able to make what you need without paying for the “deere” name.
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#253 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2012 - 02:35 PM

Time to talk with the local Napa and see what the can do.

#254 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2012 - 02:44 PM

Travis, You can contact our site sponsors, they will have good used lines for a H-3 you can get.

Your work looks great , I can't wait to see it done. :thumbs:
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#255 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2012 - 09:26 AM

Travis, You can contact our site sponsors, they will have good used lines for a H-3 you can get.

Your work looks great , I can't wait to see it done. :thumbs:


I will contact them and see what I can find. Need lines for serial # 30,001+
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