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1971 120


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#226 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 20, 2012 - 12:26 PM

Okay! The handles have a key way for the other connectors to fit in. Neat!


The handle difference is why I ended up with the 140 h3 parts instead of the 316k parts I have. The mounting design is entirely different on the 316k. I will post pics of the parts side by side for reference. I believe the 300 uses the same basic design as the 120/140. Interestingly, the 300 H2 parts are selling for more money than I paid for the 140 H3 stuff.

#227 ckjakline OFFLINE  

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Posted September 20, 2012 - 05:55 PM

Looks good so far.Keep up the good work. :thumbs: :thumbs:

#228 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 20, 2012 - 08:16 PM

A few pics from today...

Valves first:
H2 = black, H3 = green
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Handles:
H2 = black, H3 = green
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H1 and H3
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I got the H3 handles disassembled, wire-wheeled, primed and painted.

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Edited by Trav1s, September 20, 2012 - 08:24 PM.

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#229 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 24, 2012 - 11:30 AM

Ordered the rod ends I posted a page back and will try them in place of the Deere pieces. At $11 a piece and the cost of shipping they are the same price I can get the original pieces from Deere. These look like they will last longer and hopefully make it steer easier with the blower on front.

I got the pieces from www.speedwaymotors.com
2 of #

1750225 1/2" RH


2 of #

1750425 1/2" LH





For those that did not see the post, they look like this:
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Edited by Trav1s, September 25, 2012 - 04:26 PM.


#230 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2012 - 06:38 AM

Nice ends. May have to get some of those!

#231 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2012 - 07:40 AM

They wll

Nice ends. May have to get some of those!


They are on teh truck for delivery this afternoon. I will post up pics comparing the old Deere pieces to these. Worst case scenario is that they will not work and I would need to drive to Lincoln to return them.

#232 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2012 - 04:12 PM

Parts arrived and I just threaded them onto the Deere pieces. As long as the is enough space/clearance between the center pivot and frame these pieces should be what I am looking for. Here are a few pics for your reference.

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#233 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2012 - 04:18 PM

Those look so much better than the 'old' stuff. If they fit, I'd use them!
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#234 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2012 - 04:21 PM

The movement is much smoother and required less effort. Combine these with the Kirkengine.com steering improvement kit, a steering box rebuild, new front wheel bearings, different spindles, and I expect much reduced steering effort. :smilewink:

Edited by Trav1s, September 25, 2012 - 04:27 PM.


#235 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2012 - 04:44 PM

You ought to have a zero turn after all that!
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#236 dave8338 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2012 - 07:27 PM

First I've seen of this thread. GREAT job on the 120 resto-mod. Sure is fun seeing it all come together.
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#237 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2012 - 09:03 PM

First I've seen of this thread. GREAT job on the 120 resto-mod. Sure is fun seeing it all come together.


Thanks Dave8338



I took a look underneath the tractor earlier tonight. I need to remove steering arm to fit them in place but it appears there is enough space to install the tie rods with the new parts. I hope to get to this on Friday.

Edited by Trav1s, September 25, 2012 - 09:07 PM.


#238 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2012 - 06:18 AM

First I've seen of this thread. GREAT job on the 120 resto-mod. Sure is fun seeing it all come together.

Dave, it's a great thread! I've been following along learning little tid bits. If someone else comes along with a ? on one of these, I know where to send them for help.

Thanks Dave8338



I took a look underneath the tractor earlier tonight. I need to remove steering arm to fit them in place but it appears there is enough space to install the tie rods with the new parts. I hope to get to this on Friday.

Cool, glad they will work. I will keep the link to replace mine as needed. I see they have several different sizes, which is great.
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#239 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2012 - 08:04 AM

Been thinking about these pieces installed and this is my concern... Will dirt collect on the top surface in this picture and settle down into the assembly.

Posted Image

This takes me back to my original idea of using the open type with bolts and large washers to keep dirt out.

Any thoughts on this? I am open to your thoughts.
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#240 dave8338 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2012 - 08:20 AM

Been thinking about these pieces installed and this is my concern... Will dirt collect on the top surface in this picture and settle down into the assembly.

Posted Image

This takes me back to my original idea of using the open type with bolts and large washers to keep dirt out.

Any thoughts on this? I am open to your thoughts.


Nope. Have the same end links on my Ransomes Bob Cat mower project and they have been on there and working since new. Actually, all the link connections on the machine, are of the type you have and everything works smoothly. MUCH better than the ball and socket type, that most machines come with. If they fit...you'll never need to replace them, again. :dancingbanana:

One other note: Those little holes on the side of the ball end link, that lead to the threads on the rod, use a drop of light weight oil in them and fill the hole with a dab of grease, and they will always be turnable by hand. Keeps the threads from getting gummed up.

Edited by dave8338, September 26, 2012 - 08:25 AM.

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