1655/1855 Hydro Rebuild
Posted August 24, 2011 - 08:19 AM
From the previous posts you all have gleaned I narrowed down the problem to the hydro itself, and the one I swapped into the 1655 will work for the short term but its input shaft splines are worn and its not a long term solution.
I have the original hydro at home and now I need some answers to questions. I am attaching 2 photos, the first proves the shaft that controls the brake portion is missing a pin that may or may not go into the swashplate. The second photo is from the parts manual showing what I can conclude is bad .
Here go the questions
Is the #30 pin a spring roll pin or hardened pin?
Is it better to disassemble the unit from the input end or differential end to replace the pin?
Is there a supplier for gaskets and any other parts?
If the unit is disassembled from the differential end are there special precautions or warnings that I should take notice of?
Do I need to tear the entire unit down to inspect for damage or just tear down to the pin and replace?
Any idea why this pin would have sheared off?
And for the $ 2.00 question how lucky am I going to be (not knowing how long this tractor was operated in this condition) to find no damage internally from this sheared pin?
Ok bang away at me its early and I would like to think I am strong enough to handle the brutality of the candid answers. Nope not selling it yet :smile1:
Posted August 24, 2011 - 10:27 AM
Posted August 24, 2011 - 10:39 AM
I wish I could help you out but I haven't had a Sundstrand hydro apart yet.
Same here,but someone will be along.
Posted August 24, 2011 - 10:41 AM
Posted August 24, 2011 - 10:54 AM
Posted August 24, 2011 - 11:02 AM
Posted August 24, 2011 - 04:13 PM
Massey Ferguson MF-14/16 Service Manual - Manuals - Garden Tractor Talk - Forums
Posted August 24, 2011 - 04:33 PM
The roll pins are std type roll pins with the split down one side. Likely you will find them unharmed inside the pump case. They MUST be the right length, or getting them out in the future will be a nightmare! When you must remove them, each one drops into a slot in the back side of things, so if you put one long pin into this, there isn't room on the back side for it to fall out. You can cut a longer roll pin to the correct length though.
If nothing else needs any attention, then all you will need to do is re-install new pins. They are the length to where you drive one in, then drive the 2nd on top of the first. This puts each roll pin on each side of the shaft, pinning it to the swash plate.
Do Not use plain silicon sealer at all. The squeezings can clog the system. Use a very very thin layer of a quality sealer if you feel you need it due to any scratches, or if able to re-use the original gaskets (not likely). I use Permatex "Ultra Grey" or Yamabond 4 from a Yamaha motorcycle dealer. The Yamabond is the best & goes on thinner & doesn't squeeze in like std silicons, and even if it does, it hardly ever will drop off & get into anything.
Just be very careful keeping everything in it's correct place. As the manuals say, pistons can go into any hole, so if the cylinder & pistons fall out, don't worry, they interchange in the holes.
Once you get things apart, post plenty of component pics so we can get a good look. Most important is the back side of the cylinder & the brass looking plates they run against. Then of course the piston wobble faces.
This is something you CAN do, so don't worry, just take your time. VERY important to take reference pics at every stage of work you do.
- Petenpole said thank you
Posted August 24, 2011 - 04:49 PM
Posted August 24, 2011 - 04:59 PM
GO, Daniel, GO! Chop that silage, give help to newby, chop that silage.
LOL @ Kenny! Chopping done for the day. Takes 3 to keep chopping smooth, and one has to milk the cows now, so I'm off duty! Hot out, so not tinkering with my tractors tonight. A guy's gotta rest!
Posted August 24, 2011 - 05:22 PM
Posted August 25, 2011 - 08:13 AM
My biggest fear is mis-aligning one of the pistons into the wrong hole upon reassembly but I guess I will live learn and maybe gain some additional knowledge. Again thanks a lot.
Posted August 25, 2011 - 08:21 AM
Posted August 25, 2011 - 04:59 PM
I will post photos later, and while Daniel says the pistons are interchangeable, I have kept them exactly in the cylinders as they came out.
Closer inspection is needed but here is the damage I have found, one roll pin is missing about a 1/3 of its length. I have found some small metal fibers in the swash plate atea. The needle and roller bearings appear good condition and the pistons dont look damaged and the 2 brass plates dont have any gouges or burned areas.
I could almost write a short essay on taking it apart.
Danie again thanks, and by the way driving the pins out was the answer. I was concerned someone had been in here before and the pins were going to be too long. But they drove out easily and now to see if I can get a new roll pin to go in where the damaged one failed. And maybe a new grease seal for that side.
Posted August 25, 2011 - 05:08 PM