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#1 Guest_hooligan_*

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Posted April 16, 2010 - 09:29 PM

OK guys, what are you using? Anyone using 10W30? Nondetergent? Heavy Duty? Synthetic oils?

#2 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2010 - 10:30 PM

Been using nothing but Shell Rotella 15W40 in ALL my engines, large & small for years now. Much easier using one oil for all, and it keeps my engines in perfect shape. This oil is made for diesels, so if it'll hold up to turbo heat, it'll hold up under high heat conditions of small engines. Many would argue with me, but I won't argue back....this oil works, and that's all I need to know.

#3 pulltilbroke OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2010 - 11:49 PM

I run 15-40 CI-4 rated diesel oil in all my machines,I usually get it from Tractor supply or Orschelens.

Rotella and most other big name oils are now a CJ-4 ashless oil and doesn't have any zinc in it anymore.

#4 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2010 - 04:54 AM

I only have 1 diesel 86 F350 dump, not fussy on what's in it. In an air cooled engine, synthetic makes a noticeable difference, oil stays cleaner longer, doesn't burn near as much, motor seems to run cooler and better, especially when it's hot out or you push it hard. I guess you could say the same for diesel's, mine doesn't see much use.
Rotella comes synthetic or non around here and is popular.

#5 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2010 - 06:25 AM

I use 10W-30 in My Bolens

#6 poncho62 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2010 - 07:14 AM

10w30...Whatever brand name is on sale......

#7 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2010 - 07:18 AM

10w30...Whatever brand name is on sale......


:ditto:

#8 broken2 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2010 - 07:51 AM

I use 15w-40 Rotella in my equipment - garden tractors, sub compact diesel and JD B. I switch to 5w-30 castrol in the garden tractors I use in the winter for snowblowing & plowing. I leave the 15w-40 in the diesel because it has a engine oil pre-heater. I change the oil fairly often in the summer equipment, I worry more about contaminants from dirty/dusty conditions than viscosity breakdown.

#9 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2010 - 08:07 AM

I use 10W30 in my gas engines and 15W40 in my diesels right now,but I am going to switch to Amsoil full synthetic oils in engines,diffs, hydrostatic trannys,etc .

#10 Guest_hooligan_*

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Posted April 17, 2010 - 10:42 PM

Thanks, guys, I think teh consensus is, change the oil when it gets dirty, sometimes before the hours say so, if your working it hard

#11 hydriv OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2010 - 12:35 PM

Any discussion about oil, ranks right up there with religion, politics and Ford vs Chevy vs Mopar.

As someone who's interest lie in tractors use L-head engines that are air-cooled and splash-lubed, I place my trust in what the engine manufacturer tells me to use. WHY? Well how about the fact that Kohler has been building, testing, refining and selling millions of K and M engines for around 50 years or so and have spent millions on research and development? For sure, oil technology is a couple of light-years from where it was when these engines were first developed and yet; even today Kohler has yet to alter the wording in the on-line manuals for these engines.

The preferred oil suggested by Kohler is a straight grade 30W detergent based product with the option to use a multi-grade such as 10W30 when operating the engine is sub-freezing temps. Because these engines are not equipped with an oil pump to provide pressure lubrication, there is no filtration for the engine oil so changing out the oil every 25 hours max is a crucial factor in getting the engine to last for you. Detergent based oils keep contaminants in constant suspension so that they can be removed one of two ways; either by way of an oil filter or by dumping out the oil.

Looking at the oil doesn't tell you much. Oils darken with heat and contaminants that are harmful are so small they cannot be seen by the naked eye. While I fully agree that synthetic oils are a wonderful invention for certain applications, I personally feel that there is no real benefit to using synthetics in a splash-lubed engine that gets its oil changed every 25 hours. There are things going on inside an engine that a synthetic oil has no impact on such as valves and valve seats. Once the valves and seats need regrinding or replacing, a wise owner will conduct a thorough rebuild of the entire engine anyway. So, what's the point in tossing away whatever difference their might be in price between a synthetic and a dino oil?

Now, the exception to this position would be severe, cold weather where engine cranking would be dramatically improved by using a synthetic instead of a dino oil. Under those conditions, I agree that there is merit to using the synthetic but in plus freezing temps, I don't see the point. I have read about how much cooler someone's engine runs while using synthetic oil but until I conduct my own tests, I'm not buying it. One would have to fit their engine out with a few temperature sensors and conduct such tests under conditions that were as close as you could possibly make them, especially when it comes to ambient air temps, wind velocity, engine RPM, engine load and so forth.

Since many of the engines we use are not only air-cooled but also oil cooled, are we to believe that a synthetic based oil actually conducts and transfers heat better than a dino based oil? To me, that is the question.

#12 jhn9840 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2010 - 04:20 PM

I've always used Valvoline in everything. Whatever grade the manufacture recommends. There are as many opinions on this subject as there are people reading this thread.

jhn9840
John

#13 C Holmes OFFLINE  

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Posted May 12, 2010 - 05:48 AM

I use Amsoil in everything, 4 Stroke in the gassers and HDD in the diesels. Change it, well hardly ever.

#14 hydriv ONLINE  

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Posted May 12, 2010 - 07:13 AM

I use Amsoil in everything, 4 Stroke in the gassers and HDD in the diesels. Change it, well hardly ever.


If all of the engines are pressure lubricated and have oil filters, then it is possible to extend the oil change period. But if any of your engines are splash lubricated, then you are making a huge mistake.

#15 lawnguy456 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 12, 2010 - 07:26 AM

I use Synthetic oil. I was not a huge believer in sythetic oil until an oil salesman told me to run regular oil and sythetic oil through a coffee filter. Boys regular oil has dirt in it. Can clearly be seen in a coffee filter. That poo comes out of the ground and they only filter it so well. Given my small gas engines have no oil filter to help remove this from the crankcase I will never look at regular oil again.




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