Posted April 16, 2010 - 09:29 PM
Posted April 16, 2010 - 10:30 PM
Posted April 16, 2010 - 11:49 PM
Rotella and most other big name oils are now a CJ-4 ashless oil and doesn't have any zinc in it anymore.
Posted April 17, 2010 - 04:54 AM
Rotella comes synthetic or non around here and is popular.
Posted April 17, 2010 - 06:25 AM
Posted April 17, 2010 - 07:14 AM
Posted April 17, 2010 - 07:18 AM
10w30...Whatever brand name is on sale......
Posted April 17, 2010 - 07:51 AM
Posted April 17, 2010 - 08:07 AM
Posted April 17, 2010 - 10:42 PM
Posted April 20, 2010 - 12:35 PM
As someone who's interest lie in tractors use L-head engines that are air-cooled and splash-lubed, I place my trust in what the engine manufacturer tells me to use. WHY? Well how about the fact that Kohler has been building, testing, refining and selling millions of K and M engines for around 50 years or so and have spent millions on research and development? For sure, oil technology is a couple of light-years from where it was when these engines were first developed and yet; even today Kohler has yet to alter the wording in the on-line manuals for these engines.
The preferred oil suggested by Kohler is a straight grade 30W detergent based product with the option to use a multi-grade such as 10W30 when operating the engine is sub-freezing temps. Because these engines are not equipped with an oil pump to provide pressure lubrication, there is no filtration for the engine oil so changing out the oil every 25 hours max is a crucial factor in getting the engine to last for you. Detergent based oils keep contaminants in constant suspension so that they can be removed one of two ways; either by way of an oil filter or by dumping out the oil.
Looking at the oil doesn't tell you much. Oils darken with heat and contaminants that are harmful are so small they cannot be seen by the naked eye. While I fully agree that synthetic oils are a wonderful invention for certain applications, I personally feel that there is no real benefit to using synthetics in a splash-lubed engine that gets its oil changed every 25 hours. There are things going on inside an engine that a synthetic oil has no impact on such as valves and valve seats. Once the valves and seats need regrinding or replacing, a wise owner will conduct a thorough rebuild of the entire engine anyway. So, what's the point in tossing away whatever difference their might be in price between a synthetic and a dino oil?
Now, the exception to this position would be severe, cold weather where engine cranking would be dramatically improved by using a synthetic instead of a dino oil. Under those conditions, I agree that there is merit to using the synthetic but in plus freezing temps, I don't see the point. I have read about how much cooler someone's engine runs while using synthetic oil but until I conduct my own tests, I'm not buying it. One would have to fit their engine out with a few temperature sensors and conduct such tests under conditions that were as close as you could possibly make them, especially when it comes to ambient air temps, wind velocity, engine RPM, engine load and so forth.
Since many of the engines we use are not only air-cooled but also oil cooled, are we to believe that a synthetic based oil actually conducts and transfers heat better than a dino based oil? To me, that is the question.
Posted April 20, 2010 - 04:20 PM
Posted May 12, 2010 - 05:48 AM
Posted May 12, 2010 - 07:13 AM
I use Amsoil in everything, 4 Stroke in the gassers and HDD in the diesels. Change it, well hardly ever.
If all of the engines are pressure lubricated and have oil filters, then it is possible to extend the oil change period. But if any of your engines are splash lubricated, then you are making a huge mistake.
Posted May 12, 2010 - 07:26 AM