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#1 maddhorse OFFLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2011 - 02:12 PM

So I inheritated a 1975 John Deere 212 It was parked for ten or more years. My brother inlaw got abused it and sold all atachments and then left it behind when he and my sister moved. My father retrieved it and ran it a bit and then paked it in a wet, roof leaking leanto of a shed for a year. I had to hook it to a silvardo 4x4 with a chain to pull it out. I got it running and have since done alot of maintance. the latest was lapping the valves as the intake valve was not seating. I put all new gaskets in and it still pops. It seems like it is poping from the exhaust. but now on top of that I can get it to low idle but just slightest bit of throttle it SCREAMS....... I figure that air must be getting in around the carb or head gasket but what the heck is causing the pop. I have been through the electrical 3 times it gets fuel. I am at a loss? :worshippy1:

#2 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2011 - 02:47 PM

Is the governor linkage installed and working correctly. Some sort of problem there would cause the screaming. I have a similar issue with my 314 although it is more of a stumble than a pop. Every few seconds it stumbles. I am thinking it may be a carb problem of some kind. Have you checked your fuel flow from the tank to the pump. Also, I wonder if a loose carb throttle bushing can cause this sort of symptom. If you solve it let me know. Mine starts well and runs without trouble except for the stumble. These problems are frustrating for sure!!

#3 maddhorse OFFLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2011 - 03:01 PM

It stumbles with the pop and is very quick it is not consistent or constant and seldom happens under a load. I wondered about the governor as well, I think I have it right but am not sure. I keep rereading how the whole governor system works.


I just got off the phone with my mom. She says it always poped not really a backfire but a low tone pop. Grandad had it looked at several times and was told it was a decompression feature. At least I know it has been there for thirtyfive or so years.

Edited by maddhorse, August 20, 2011 - 03:43 PM.


#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2011 - 07:29 PM

It stumbles with the pop and is very quick it is not consistent or constant and seldom happens under a load. I wondered about the governor as well, I think I have it right but am not sure. I keep rereading how the whole governor system works.


I just got off the phone with my mom. She says it always poped not really a backfire but a low tone pop. Grandad had it looked at several times and was told it was a decompression feature. At least I know it has been there for thirtyfive or so years.


Decompression. I don't see how the decompression system could be causing it. It is only supposed to operate at very low speeds. I am still learning about this stuff. I am going to try to have another look at mine this week sometime. I need to check the fuel flow and look at the governor linkage again. I didn't take pictures of the linkage before I disassembled it so I'm not sure how it was connected when I got the tractor.

#5 maddhorse OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2011 - 04:59 AM

Agreed! low speed decompression stroke Thats what i thought to. I have not given up I know a guy who own's a Husquavarna dealer ship and takes in small engine jobs. We get along really well so I think I will load the tractor and take it over and see what he thinks.
Governor linkage is easy. I looked this over and found I had set my goernor wrong and that is why it was on scream. After reading this I got it. Information about the Kohler Carburetor, Various Fuels and Fuel Systems
How to Set the Governor Adjustment - Top of page


If your engine revs with no closing of the throttle shaft, or surges, then the governor is probably out of adjustment. To set the governor on a Kohler (or virtually any engine)...
  • Install all the throttle linkages, governor parts, etc., in their respective places. look for wear in the holes in the governor and throttle to see the most likely place the spring was last.
  • Loosen the bolt that clamps the lever to the governor cross-shaft that protrudes out of the engine block.
  • With the throttle plate blocked in the wide open position, rotate the cross-shaft counterclockwise until it stops. Now tighten the bolt.
  • That's all that's to it! But if this doesn't fix the problem, then perhaps a governor part inside the engine is damaged or the screws came out of the throttle plate, where it fastens to the throttle shaft.
  • And it doesn't matter how long or short the link is because the governor is adjusted by the clamp on the cross shaft. Actually, We don't know why Kohler made the link adjustable. It serves no purpose to lengthen or shorten it.
  • You can also go here for further details and pictures: Cub Cadet FAQ.
Posted Image Do not mistakenly rotate the cross shaft clockwise (opposite rotation than what it shows in the drawing above) until it stops, tighten the clamp and then run the engine! Doing this could cause the lever (see below) to jam into the governor flyweights, breaking off the lever and/or possibly destroying the governor gear assembly.
If the governor cross-shaft (the shaft that protrudes from the block) gets bent due to rough handling of the engine, and if it's not bent too bad, just use a hammer to straighten it. It's made of mild steel. But if it's bent severely and breaks off, it must be replaced. If this happens, usually the bushing/nut (Kohler part # 235476) will break and it will need to be replaced, too. Or, if the above adjustment was attempted, and the governor shaft keeps rotating without stopping, this means the flat lever on the shaft has broken off. This will allow an engine to operate dangerously at wide open throttle at all times. To fix either of the above, another governor shaft (Kohler part # A23525601S) must be installed. To install another shaft, the entire engine must be completely disassembled. This means EVERYTHING inside the engine block (crankcase) will need to be removed. And then the replacement shaft can installed from inside the crankcase. But before the old shaft is removed, the bronze bushing/nut on the outside must first be removed. The governor gear assembly doesn't have to be removed. The shaft lifts out from inside the crankcase and is installed in reverse order of removal. Posted ImageAnd it'll be a good idea to place a small bead of weld on the flat lever to secure it to the shaft to prevent future breakage. (We think this is something that Kohler should have done.) We realize that this is a lot of work just to replace a small [important] part, but it must be done in this way. There is no other way to replace it.
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#6 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2011 - 06:01 AM

Thanks maddhorse , I've only had to adjusted one governor and I don't remember that the old paperwork explained what would happen if don incorrectly ! Al

#7 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2011 - 06:06 AM

Great info there, maddhorse. Thanks for posting it. How about posting this info again in the Mechanical Forum. Might get sticky status.

#8 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2011 - 06:59 AM

Thanks for that. I have the Kohler manual but I have never seen an explanation of the consequences of doing the adjustment backwards. I replaced the governor lever on mine. I marked the shaft and put the new one on exactly where the old one was. I have never done the adjustment but perhaps I will if I can't find out what is going on with the stumbling. I don't think mine does it under load either. If it were a fuel supply issue I would think it would be worse under load!

#9 maddhorse OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2011 - 03:12 PM

When I read the manual I did not understand I found this while doing a search I made some changes but the credit should go to Brian Miller. I believe he is the orginal author.

#10 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2011 - 06:24 PM

When I read the manual I did not understand I found this while doing a search I made some changes but the credit should go to Brian Miller. I believe he is the orginal author.


Yes, Thank you for the info.

#11 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2011 - 07:48 PM

Agreed! low speed decompression stroke Thats what i thought to. I have not given up I know a guy who own's a Husquavarna dealer ship and takes in small engine jobs. We get along really well so I think I will load the tractor and take it over and see what he thinks.
Governor linkage is easy. I looked this over and found I had set my goernor wrong and that is why it was on scream. After reading this I got it. Information about the Kohler Carburetor, Various Fuels and Fuel Systems
How to Set the Governor Adjustment - Top of page



If your engine revs with no closing of the throttle shaft, or surges, then the governor is probably out of adjustment. To set the governor on a Kohler (or virtually any engine)...

  • Install all the throttle linkages, governor parts, etc., in their respective places. look for wear in the holes in the governor and throttle to see the most likely place the spring was last.
  • Loosen the bolt that clamps the lever to the governor cross-shaft that protrudes out of the engine block.
  • With the throttle plate blocked in the wide open position, rotate the cross-shaft counterclockwise until it stops. Now tighten the bolt.
  • That's all that's to it! But if this doesn't fix the problem, then perhaps a governor part inside the engine is damaged or the screws came out of the throttle plate, where it fastens to the throttle shaft.
  • And it doesn't matter how long or short the link is because the governor is adjusted by the clamp on the cross shaft. Actually, We don't know why Kohler made the link adjustable. It serves no purpose to lengthen or shorten it.
  • You can also go here for further details and pictures: Cub Cadet FAQ.
Posted Image Do not mistakenly rotate the cross shaft clockwise (opposite rotation than what it shows in the drawing above) until it stops, tighten the clamp and then run the engine! Doing this could cause the lever (see below) to jam into the governor flyweights, breaking off the lever and/or possibly destroying the governor gear assembly.
If the governor cross-shaft (the shaft that protrudes from the block) gets bent due to rough handling of the engine, and if it's not bent too bad, just use a hammer to straighten it. It's made of mild steel. But if it's bent severely and breaks off, it must be replaced. If this happens, usually the bushing/nut (Kohler part # 235476) will break and it will need to be replaced, too. Or, if the above adjustment was attempted, and the governor shaft keeps rotating without stopping, this means the flat lever on the shaft has broken off. This will allow an engine to operate dangerously at wide open throttle at all times. To fix either of the above, another governor shaft (Kohler part # A23525601S) must be installed. To install another shaft, the entire engine must be completely disassembled. This means EVERYTHING inside the engine block (crankcase) will need to be removed. And then the replacement shaft can installed from inside the crankcase. But before the old shaft is removed, the bronze bushing/nut on the outside must first be removed. The governor gear assembly doesn't have to be removed. The shaft lifts out from inside the crankcase and is installed in reverse order of removal. Posted ImageAnd it'll be a good idea to place a small bead of weld on the flat lever to secure it to the shaft to prevent future breakage. (We think this is something that Kohler should have done.) We realize that this is a lot of work just to replace a small [important] part, but it must be done in this way. There is no other way to replace it.


maddhorse, Thanks so much for finding this info, I have copied it and made it a sticky thread in the Mechanical Forum. Thanks Again..
  • KennyP said thank you

#12 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2011 - 05:52 AM

Thanks, Brian. Makes it much easier to find and/or point someone to.
Maddhorse, I'm just glad you dug it up and reposted it. Thanks.




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