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MF 12 Hydraspeed-need carb and oil change help


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#1 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2011 - 01:42 PM

I'm working on a MF 12 hydra speed now, that I found at the salvage yard. I'm putting in a neighbor's HH120 off an old sears tractor, but water sat in his carb and it is rusty and grungy. Two questions: Anybody got an old carb to fit a HH120 tecumseh, and where are the drain and fill plugs for the transmission as well as the hydro oil.

Thanks,
Howard

Edited by MH81, August 18, 2011 - 10:29 PM.


#2 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2011 - 10:12 PM

The drain for the hydro is on the hydro pan, you can refill it using the tank under the seat.
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#3 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2011 - 10:11 AM

How do you check the level of the hydro fluid, is there a 'weep' plug, or do you drain it and pre measure the fill? I've looked through the available manuals and haven't seen much info on this.

Howard

#4 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2011 - 12:19 PM

In the absence of any information, I added 1.5 quarts of Dexron oil to the Hydo transmission. Right now, the hydro will run for a bit, then everything will quit, then there will be a sound like the hydro is loading up, and the tractor will start to move again. Again, this tractor came home from the salvage yard, so I have no idea what the history is. Does this sound like air in the system? and if so, how do I bleed it out?

Can someone tell me if the freewheel valve should have the long end of the T towards the ground or away from the ground? Or is there another position that should be used?

I would like to drain and refill the axle, but although I've found the drain, I haven't found the fill. There is a plug that nestles behind the hitch plate, is that the fill plug?

Edited by HowardsMF155, August 19, 2011 - 12:43 PM.


#5 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2011 - 01:21 PM

OK, some searching through the archives told me that these systems can be bled, so I began doing that. Now I have ATF fluid leaking from around the forward/reverse valve. Any thoughts on how difficult that might be to repair?

Does anyone in particular work on these old hydro systems?




Thanks,
Howard

#6 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2011 - 01:45 PM

In the absence of any information, I added 1.5 quarts of Dexron oil to the Hydo transmission. Right now, the hydro will run for a bit, then everything will quit, then there will be a sound like the hydro is loading up, and the tractor will start to move again. Again, this tractor came home from the salvage yard, so I have no idea what the history is. Does this sound like air in the system? and if so, how do I bleed it out??


The amount of fluid is in the capacity chart in the owners manual. Or you can fill it to the proper level in the reserve tank.

Can someone tell me if the freewheel valve should have the long end of the T towards the ground or away from the ground? Or is there another position that should be used??


If I remember correctly the short end is up, when in freewheel mode, The T is horizontal when driving.

I would like to drain and refill the axle, but although I've found the drain, I haven't found the fill. There is a plug that nestles behind the hitch plate, is that the fill plug?


Yes, the refill plug is hidden behind the hitch plate for the rear axle. It's a pain.

#7 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2011 - 03:07 PM

I don't have an owners manual, I've been going by the MF10 manual and the service manual. I haven't seen transmission capacities listed.

This tractor has a pipe plug under the seat, that is what I filled.

I'll try the valve in another position, though I would think that if the system had run for any length of time that the valve must be correctly positioned.

#8 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2011 - 03:19 PM

I have a 67 model that did not have the factory reserve tank. It has a dipstick in the top left corner of the hydro tank box. I've never had to work on mine at all.

#9 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2011 - 06:21 PM

Hydro tractors
Fluid check, there's a sticker and a sight tube on the reservoir under the seat, if the sticker is not there then about 1/2 full in the tank should be good.
If no tank under the seat, there is a brass screw in dip stick near the free wheeling valve.
Hyd trany holds> 3US qts., Reservoir holds 2USpts. hyd transmission fluid type A
Rear axle and diff holds> 2USpts. gear oil. SAE 90

Hyd oil goes in the tank.
Trany gear oil goes in the pipe plug, beside the Hyd tank. (fill up to the level check plug)

Freewheeling valve points UP (long handle up, short end down) for normal operation.
To push the tractor by hand then the handle points down.
All this info I got from my manuals.
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#10 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2011 - 05:50 PM

Ok, Thanks for the information, I was able to fill the actual hydro tank behind the wheel. However, it is still doing pretty much the same thing, running for a bit then a real lack of power. In fact it does seem to do better after sitting a bit. I tried bleeding the air out by rocking the handle back and forth, but it makes no difference. I suppose I can locate and install a filter and see if that helps, in my uneducated opinion there is a lack of fluid flow more than anything else. I just hate to invest too much time and money if this rear end is shot.

#11 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2011 - 06:32 PM

You must have an early one, does it have the starter/generator or the ring gear starter?
Maybe try running it on jack stands with the rear wheels up in the air, see if you can bleed the air out.
I think the filter is inside the pan??? I never had mine apart.

#12 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2011 - 07:00 PM

Yup, the hydro filter is inside the hydro. You must drain it and remove the pan to get to it.
Also, I think the original filter is NLA, but I think someone has found a replacement that works?

#13 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2011 - 07:36 PM

Yes, I think is is a fairly early one. I think I dated it as a 1968 by the serial number. Who knows what the original engine was, someone has tried to install a replacement engine. It was a Tecumseh HH120, but the carb stuck out at an angle towards the back of the motor so that didn't fit. Fortunately, they hadn't cut sheet metal yet so the air cleaner would fit, but the missing air cleaner didn't make me feel to happy about the motor guts. I was going to try fixing the lack of spark with some sort of conversion kit, but conversation with a neighbor turned up a fresher, more ready to run HH120. It really needs a new carb as the old one had sat with water in it, and I'm not sure that sort of thing can be rebuilt. I borrowed a carb from my 12G for a day or two just to see how this motor and axle ran. Now I need to sort out any transmission issues without spending too much money. The hood and grill are in nice condition, and the nose peice is intact. It would be a shame to end up back at the salvage yard with it, so I hope I can get the transmission up.

#14 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted August 23, 2011 - 07:10 AM

I wish I could help on this one, but for now I am lurking and reading. I hope to spend a little time on a 12 h this winter and will continue to watch what you find.

Good luck.

#15 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2011 - 08:39 PM

OK, some minor progress with mixed results. I finally found the correct position for the freewheel valve by pushing the tractor and moving the valve. When the tractor stopped moving, I had the right position. I spent a few moments driving at various speeds around the yard and things seemed ok, but I still need to go over the trans and make sure everything is OK. Also, there is a major leak at the forward/reverse valve, so I'll need to locate the O-rings and overhaul that.

Also received my carb rebuild kit from Partstree.com today. I've had the carb soaking since Thursday last week, so out it came. I sanded the rust out of the fuel bowl. rinsed things off, then put everything together. Major Kudos to my wife for finding the tiny little washer that OF COURSE fell in the grass and got lost. Mixed news on the rebuild. The engine did fire up and run, could probably do better with some adjustment. BUT....A few minutes after I shut the engine down, the carb started flooding and leaking out the air intake. I disassembled it again, worked on seating the rubber seal on the float needle, reassembled it and still had a flooding issue. Anyone have any insights on how to fix this flooding carb? Also, how does that little spring that wraps around the float axle go on?

TIA
Howard




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