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316 difference


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#16 Sergeant OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2011 - 12:52 PM

Closha63 since Your doing so Much work on your 316 I would Keep these JD Bone Yards In Mined
Home Page J D Lawn Tractor

TractorSalesAndParts.com - Hundreds of Used Tractors & Parts!:thumbs:


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#17 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2011 - 05:56 PM

Thanks for that link Sergeant.

#18 MAV OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2011 - 06:41 PM

Closha63
Hopefully I can try and answer a few of your questions.

1. No pressing on the brake pedals is not going to return the hydro lever to neutral. It is just going to apply the brakes.
2. You do not want to mix ATF and JD Hydro fluid. A little may not hurt when changing it out but the next time you change the fluid and filter use the same kind. Don't go back and forth between the two. If the fluid is red then it is ATF. That is what I run in all mine.
3. There could be slight movement in driveshaft but very little. You may also want to check the coupler that attaches to the hydro pump. There is a tappered pin that connect the coupler to the hydro pump shaft it may be worn. You will need the fender deck off to check this.
4. The inner lever that sticks forward . Yes that is suppose to do that. It is a float feature. When using the front blade attachment you can push that lever forward until it sticks and it lets the blade float up and down when you are blading / grading. It is a nice feature once you get the hang of it.

Mark
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#19 Closha63 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2011 - 09:10 PM

Well I looked into the drive shaft play and found that the coupler on the flywheel has sherd inside where the wood-riff key goes. So I called John Deere and got a new one w/ key for $21.00. And for the fluid the guy I purchased it from said he got the fluid from JD and that it was clear. Now when i went to get more JD said they do not offer a clear fluid so i got their recommended fluid and filter. And the flay in the hydro lever i found that the key screw was loose so a little blue lock tight and time fixed that. The other hydro lever with the flout feature sounds good. Bring the snow one ahahahaha..... Thanks for all the help.. Here is some pics of the process so far. I made the wire-harness and installed a duel position switch ( 1 click for tail light/2 click for both )............
SANY1806.jpg

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#20 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2011 - 06:47 AM

Nice job on the wiring harness. Your coupler looks pretty much like mine did. Make sure your motor mounts are good. The higher vibration levels when the mounts are defective causes the couplers to wear prematurely. The JD fluid is not perfectly clear but sort of a light amber colour. Compared to the red ATF it is relatively clear which is probably what the PO was referring to. You will soon have it all sorted out and back in use!

#21 Closha63 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2011 - 01:03 PM

Taking the drive shaft and coupler out was a crazy pain mainly because of the coupler being destroyed but what is the easiest painless way to accomplish this task? And an adjustment for tractor creeping forward is underneath on the linkage correct? And the manual for the 316,318,420 does not have the kohler 16 engine in the manual or am i over reading things. I was told that the onan engine and kohler engine parts will not work together. Are the engines the only difference in the assembly? And how can I tell what year my RIG is? ( C316G 087819M ) I don't know if that helps but hopefully someone can advise me.. Anyway again thanks for all the help and i'll keep posting.....

#22 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2011 - 02:35 PM

The 316 single was only made in 1978. The 318 manual is not the correct one for your tractor. The service manual for the early 300 series is coming soon to the manuals section. I don't think there is an easy way to get that driveshaft out. I had the engine out of the 314 when I did the work on mine.
As far as the neutral adjustment I have included a diagram of the linkage for the 314. Yours should be identical. The adjustment is made on the Bushing No.18 in the diagram. It is eccentric and you loosen nut 19 to adjust it. This varies the position of the roller27 which engages the notch in the cam shaped lever 24. Spring 29 is critical to making this all work. You put the tractor on jack stands and then you can watch the wheels as you make the adjustment. It can be fussy so take your time and check forward and reverse to make sure it always comes back to a stop.
On my tractor I had neutral creep. I could not adjust it out. I found that the eccentric bushing18 was seized onto the lever 28 and had to remove all of this stuff and clean and lubricate it. I also had to replace the spring as it broke when I was working on it.
I then was able to adjust the neutral but the tractor would snap into neutral at a low speed and jerk you to a stop. This problem was caused by slack in the linkage where the pin connects to lever 24. Check this out while you are in there. If you search back in the JD threads there is one where I describe how I repaired this issue.

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#23 sgtrock1976 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2011 - 07:04 PM

I also think the newer style "open framed" 316 was the more economical version in its era. It is pretty much a stripped down 318 that has very few "luxuries." If you are looking for parts for your 316, do not get the two confused. Almost NO parts will interchange. Sloppy steering is common throughout these models. There are so many contributing factors it is almost hard to diagnose them. However, on your steering box, there is an adjustment. If you crawl under your tractor you will see on the plate on the steering colum a set screw with a locking nut. If you loosen the locking nut and turn the set screw in, it should take up some slop. All your tie rod ends could be a determining factor in your lose steering as well.

To test if you are getting current through your ammmeter wire, you would need to use a multimeter. The wire that runs through should be a solid red one with no breaks in it. With the use of a multimeter/ammeter, prod the positive lead through the red wire and ground the other. Your should receive some amperage through there.

Which direction do your hydraulic levers have play? Back and forth or up and down? There are bushings in there that can be replaced. Although, with the age of the tractor, some play can be expected; especially in the steering components.


Wow, there's at least 3 questions going on in this thread. I did NOT know about this adjustment on the steering. I work a 140 that has tremendous play in the steering. I'm guessing it will require a rebuild. Anyone have any good ideas on where to get parts? I heard the Cubs used the same steering.

#24 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2011 - 07:14 PM

Wow, there's at least 3 questions going on in this thread. I did NOT know about this adjustment on the steering. I work a 140 that has tremendous play in the steering. I'm guessing it will require a rebuild. Anyone have any good ideas on where to get parts? I heard the Cubs used the same steering.


If you check in the manuals section there is a CTSM for the 140 that has the procedure for adjusting the slack out of the steering gear. There are lots of other bushings, rod ends etc that can add to the play. I spent over 100$ getting my 314 steering sorted out.




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