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#1 Closha63 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2011 - 09:21 PM

So I have been doing a lot of internet searching for parts and what not.. I have been seeing that most 316's have the 16hp onan twin. I have the basic 16hp single. What is the difference between the 2? I have the twin brake pedals, when I push them to stop i noticed that the forward/reverse lever does not return to neutral. Should it return and if it doesn't and i continue to brake does it drag the brakes? Also is their a way to fix the sloppy play in the steering? Is their an adjustment for the hydraulic lever play. I can move them forward/back and theirs play. Is this normal? And finally can someone tell me how to test and wire in my hour meter and amp meter? Any information will be helpful......

#2 Sergeant OFFLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2011 - 09:43 PM

Well the 316 Kohler was made in 1978 It had 2 hydraulic levers & two sets of front Hydraulic outlets could take a Integral Hitch(Sleeve Hitch) and a cat 0 3point basically its a JD140 on steroids some call it a Open frame JD. The 316 was the replacement for the 300.
The 316 0nan started with a 16hp twin cylinder Onan eventually went to a 18hp Twin cylinder Onan it was made from 1984 to 1992 it Had 1 Hydraulic lever & one set of Outlets Both had manual steering But they are By no means the exact same the 316 with a Onan some call it a close frame 316 and it could only take a Cat 0 3point:thumbs:

#3 Tmo OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2011 - 06:16 AM

John, you got that backwards. Actually, the 1978 316 with the Kohler engine was called a closed frame, the newer 316s with the Onan was the open frame. The closed frames were the 120, 140, 300, 312, 316 with the Kohler engine, 314, 317, and gear drives 110, 112, 200, 208, 210, 212, 214 and 216. The open frames were the 316 with the Onan engine, 318, 322, 330, and 332. The closed frames could take the integral hitch, the open frames could not.

#4 johndeererf OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2011 - 07:57 AM

I also think the newer style "open framed" 316 was the more economical version in its era. It is pretty much a stripped down 318 that has very few "luxuries." If you are looking for parts for your 316, do not get the two confused. Almost NO parts will interchange. Sloppy steering is common throughout these models. There are so many contributing factors it is almost hard to diagnose them. However, on your steering box, there is an adjustment. If you crawl under your tractor you will see on the plate on the steering colum a set screw with a locking nut. If you loosen the locking nut and turn the set screw in, it should take up some slop. All your tie rod ends could be a determining factor in your lose steering as well.

To test if you are getting current through your ammmeter wire, you would need to use a multimeter. The wire that runs through should be a solid red one with no breaks in it. With the use of a multimeter/ammeter, prod the positive lead through the red wire and ground the other. Your should receive some amperage through there.

Which direction do your hydraulic levers have play? Back and forth or up and down? There are bushings in there that can be replaced. Although, with the age of the tractor, some play can be expected; especially in the steering components.

#5 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2011 - 08:23 AM

I also think the newer style "open framed" 316 was the more economical version in its era. It is pretty much a stripped down 318 that has very few "luxuries." If you are looking for parts for your 316, do not get the two confused. Almost NO parts will interchange. Sloppy steering is common throughout these models. There are so many contributing factors it is almost hard to diagnose them. However, on your steering box, there is an adjustment. If you crawl under your tractor you will see on the plate on the steering colum a set screw with a locking nut. If you loosen the locking nut and turn the set screw in, it should take up some slop. All your tie rod ends could be a determining factor in your lose steering as well.



To test if you are getting current through your ammmeter wire, you would need to use a multimeter. The wire that runs through should be a solid red one with no breaks in it. With the use of a multimeter/ammeter, prod the positive lead through the red wire and ground the other. Your should receive some amperage through there.


Warning ! This connection does not sound right to me. If you connect an ammeter from the red wire to ground when the circuit is powered you will short the battery to ground through your meter and blow the fuse if you are lucky.
Perhaps I am not interpreting your post properly but an ammeter is always placed in series with the current you want to measure never from a voltage source to ground!!

Edited by NUTNDUN, August 17, 2011 - 09:42 AM.


#6 johndeererf OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2011 - 09:12 AM

Warning ! This connection does not sound right to me. If you connect an ammeter from the red wire to ground when the circuit is powered you will short the battery to ground through your meter and blow the fuse if you are lucky.

Perhaps I am not interpreting your post properly but an ammeter is always placed in series with the current you want to measure never from a voltage source to ground!!


Sorry, you are correct Brian...my head was in another place this morning. To check for current, the circuit must be broken [open] and it is then closed by inserting the mulimeter, correct?

I am not an electrical guru by anymeans, but could you also use a clamp meter?

Edited by NUTNDUN, August 17, 2011 - 09:43 AM.


#7 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2011 - 10:05 AM

Sorry, you are correct Brian...my head was in another place this morning. To check for current, the circuit must be broken [open] and it is then closed by inserting the mulimeter, correct?

I am not an electrical guru by anymeans, but could you also use a clamp meter?


It is a common mistake and many a meter has been smoked by being connected to a voltage source while in the amps mode. I've done it myself. As far as clamp on probes go they normally are only for measuring AC currents. If you put one on the line from the alternator you may see the AC component of the DC charge current but it won't give you the correct reading.
I am an advocate of using an ohm meter, and doing as much troubleshooting as possible with the circuit unpowered. This prevents accidental short circuits that can damage meters or components. To check an ammeter it should have a low internal resistance. If it reads open then it is definitely broken. An ammeter can also have an internal mechanical problem that will stop the meter from reading.

#8 Sergeant OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2011 - 10:09 AM

Whoops Didn't even realize I wrote it backwards I had ment the oposite as well Terry:thumbs:

#9 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2011 - 10:16 AM

So I have been doing a lot of internet searching for parts and what not.. I have been seeing that most 316's have the 16hp onan twin. I have the basic 16hp single. What is the difference between the 2? I have the twin brake pedals, when I push them to stop i noticed that the forward/reverse lever does not return to neutral. Should it return and if it doesn't and i continue to brake does it drag the brakes? Also is their a way to fix the sloppy play in the steering? Is their an adjustment for the hydraulic lever play. I can move them forward/back and theirs play. Is this normal? And finally can someone tell me how to test and wire in my hour meter and amp meter? Any information will be helpful......


To check an hourmeter simply connect it to a 12volt source and see if it records time. To check an ammeter you can do a passive test by measuring the resistance across it's terminals. It should read a very low resistance.
If you want to do an actual test you need to provide a load in series with the ammeter. A 12v headlight, for instance, will give you a load that draws a few amps. So just wire the ammeter between the battery + and one side of the load. Wire the other side back to battery - to complete the circuit. If there is light then you should be able to read the current if the meter is working. Reverse the meter leads to check the current flow on the other side of a + and - type meter.

#10 Closha63 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2011 - 10:22 AM

Ok well after looking at all the diag proc. i will have to caredully look into the amp meter. I am still a little confused on the Hour meter though. their are only two wires for it and i know that someone has put it on after purchase so does it just need key 12v and good ground or what? Also in another post I have I asked about using ATF instead of the JD hydro fluid. What if any problems could i occure?????

#11 Closha63 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2011 - 12:56 PM

Ok well with the ATF instead of JD Hydro fluid I just got back from JD and purchased the filter and 5 qts of their recommended fluid. I asked them about flushing the lines and rest of the system and they told me to just pull the plug and filter. Anyone have any better suggestions other than just pulling the drain plug??? I really dont know what fluid is in the system now so if i dont have to mix the two i preffer not to.....

#12 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2011 - 03:03 PM

I don't think there will be any problems switching between the 2 approved fluid types. Just make sure you drain it completely. There isn't a plug in the usual sense. You have to remove the oil cooler tubing that goes from the hydro to the bottom front of the transaxle. The oil drains out the bottom fitting on the transaxle. It can be a bear to get off if it hasn't been changed in a while.
The best spot for the hour meter would be on the feed to the coil. That way you will be running the clock only when the engine is running.

#13 Closha63 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2011 - 08:44 PM

So I have come to he conclusion that no matter how much time and energy that you put into something there is always more to be done. I have been trying to get my head/tail lights fixed along with hooking up the switch's and the hour/amp meter. I noticed that the drive shaft that fits into the coupler (pic #2) has turning movement without the flywheel moving. Is this a normal thing or is there a key in the coupler that has excessive play? Then i have previously said about the hydro lever for the lift/lower of the deck has excess movement, meaning that I can move it forward and back until it will engage. Is there a pin that goes though the lever to the control valve arm? Also with the second lever closer to the steering shaft when pushing the lever toward the front of the tractor it seems like the valve will stick in. Any thoughts???? There is a lot more but i would like to try and figure some of this out first......
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#14 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2011 - 05:56 AM

You are doing the right thing by focusing on one issue at a time. I have just spent at least 3 months to get my 314 operational. I thought it would be done by June! Hang in there. I looked at it as a learning experience.
I had the same issue with the driveshaft on my 314. Remove the driveshaft and check the keyway in the front coupler. Mine was nearly stripped out. The couplers are available from deere. If you look at the picture below you can barely see that to the left side of the keyway it is stripped out for about 1/4". The couplers are soft, being made of a sintered material of some kind, so they wear the most. Check the shaft to make sure it is not worn as well. It looks as though the shaft may have been replaced in the past. It is way too clean for an original. The original shaft has a woodruff key (semi circular). If you take the coupler off of the engine there may be spacer washers on the flywheel side of the coupler disks. I nearly lost mine so keep an eye out for them.
Have you gone to jdparts.com and looked at the parts diagrams. I'm not sure the original 316 (not the newer 316 twin) is there but the 300 is pretty much identical and 312/314 are very similar. If you can find the 300 diagrams it will show you the linkage for the hydro levers. You should be able to see where the slack is in the mechanism. As far as the valve sticking, it looks pretty rusty in there, so a good cleaning and lubrication may help. Good luck with it and keep asking questions.


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#15 Closha63 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2011 - 12:15 PM

I wana make sure that I am understanding this! So the drive shaft and the coupler should have no play in what so ever in either the front nor rear am I correct? The drive shaft was replaced a week before i purchased it.... And for the rust this thing has very little rust on it just very dusty.




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