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Not the Plow It Was Supposed To Be


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#16 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2011 - 07:22 PM

Speaking as an experianced blacksmith, that aint just any old piece of steel in the share or mouldboard. You'd be better off to get another junk plow for the parts you need or start the share by using a throw away one that you could find at a farm store.


Yep, I know the metal isn't mild steel for sure. If I stick with 12", then I may just buy a new share from Brinly, as I understand parts are still available. The fringe of the moldboard could be a milder steel, as there's not that much wear out there. Using the right rod to weld it together will be the most important.

#17 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2011 - 09:00 PM

That's kind of like the JD I bought, said it was a front engine, got there and it was a rear engine 68. I haven't grasped that yet.

Maybe the guy was driving it backwards all that time :bigrofl:

#18 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted August 18, 2011 - 08:20 PM

Maybe the guy was driving it backwards all that time :bigrofl:

That isn't all that uncommon. :D

#19 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2011 - 08:09 PM

when plow points wore out blacksmiths eather draw out the point or forge weld on a new point, i find that 1045 tool steel is great for ground engaging tools, after the point is on, then comes the hard part, forging in the bottem and hillside suctions, if the old one was 1/8th hillside 1/8th bottem and you stretched out the plow to 13 inch then the suction will be a little more, bigger the plow, bigger the suction, you can also change the point to how you would want it for the soil you have,
it may be better to build up the points with the welder and grind to size and shape, or forge out to size,
and the moldboard is usally layers of steel, semi-soft in the center with a hard outer shell and of high carbon tool steel with a lot of magnesium, smack it with a hammer and the tone/ring is different from the share point, should ring like a large bell, not a dull thud, share should have a sharp quick ring to it, welding on points will change the temper of the share, the welded part will be harder and more apt to break off, tempering the share as a whole after the weld will help,
just a thought from a blacksmith/metalsmith, i hope this has helped, it can be done, i have seen it,
1916 Oliver Chilled Plow Works-2-way sulky plow
1890 Syracuse Chilled Plow Works-2-way sulky plow
1934-36 John Deere/Syracuse Chilled Plow Works-2-way sulky plow (sold)
1930's two International Harvester furrowers-walk behind
1930's Syracuse Chilled Plow Works-homemade walkbehind
1950's Speedex-model c walkbehind garden tractor plow (sold with tractor and attachments)
1955 David Bradley-10 inch walk behind tractor plow
1950's brinley, 3 point garden tractor plow (sold)

not including all the unknow walk behind and garden tractors plows i sold and gave away,
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#20 Gary Burnett OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2011 - 06:34 AM

Not sure about the Brinly sleeve hitch 12" plow but the Cat 0 versions there is some differences in the 10" and 12" versions and I'm pretty sure the sleeve hitch uses the same basic set up.I'll look thru my Brinly plows I think I have a 12" to compare to the 10".I have a couple Power King plows that have the old style PK sleeve hitch or will fit the PK Cat 0 A Frame they're 12" and a whole lot heavier built than the Brinly.Got a backlog of things to try out once I get get finished making hay.

#21 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2011 - 07:49 AM

Not sure about the Brinly sleeve hitch 12" plow but the Cat 0 versions there is some differences in the 10" and 12" versions and I'm pretty sure the sleeve hitch uses the same basic set up.I'll look thru my Brinly plows I think I have a 12" to compare to the 10".I have a couple Power King plows that have the old style PK sleeve hitch or will fit the PK Cat 0 A Frame they're 12" and a whole lot heavier built than the Brinly.Got a backlog of things to try out once I get get finished making hay.


I hear ya Gary. I', still chopping corn silage, and I rolled around 80 rolls of hay just yesterday. Back to silage today.

#22 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2011 - 07:52 AM

Thanks Trowel
That is great info. Would you please explain what is meant by 1/8th hillside and 1/8th bottom?
I can remember going with my Dad to the blacksmith to drop off and pick up our case plow shears. Then we bought an 1100 Massey and its plow used throwaway shears.

#23 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2011 - 07:54 PM

David Bradley plow setup
most of the new plow points are throw away, the old ones were drawn out (hammered) untill there was nothing left to work with, then a new point/edge forged welded one and used again, same method is used for forging on new edge for axes and mauls.

#24 AV430 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2011 - 11:07 PM

I have had two 10" Brinly sleeve hitch plows. I currently have a 10" Brinly sleeve hitch, the ultra sought after 12" Brinly sleeve hitch, and a 12" Brinly three point. The 12" sleeve hitch shares the same beam as the 10", although the Moldboard has an additional strut from the landslide up to the moldboard for support. I believe this is necessary. The 12" three point is a whole different animal all together. The beam is MUCH heavier and so is many of the additional parts. I don't think adding steel to a 10" plow will result in a nice furrow unless you are very skilled. I would just keep looking for a 12" or buy the shear from Brinly. I see them on that auction site sometimes, if you really want one you may just have to pone up the money. Adam

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#25 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2011 - 06:22 AM

was the 12 inch the only Brinly plow offered with the depth wheel or did the 8 and 10 inch have one too ?

#26 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2011 - 07:58 AM

According to some manauls i had here you could buy a depth wheel kit to be installed on any plow. You could make one from a gauge wheel off a full sized culivator fairly easy.

#27 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2011 - 08:12 AM

I don't think adding steel to a 10" plow will result in a nice furrow unless you are very skilled. Adam


Ah.... sounds like a challenge! :D

#28 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2011 - 07:00 PM

According to some manauls i had here you could buy a depth wheel kit to be installed on any plow. You could make one from a gauge wheel off a full sized culivator fairly easy.


used extra Planet Jr. cultrivator depth wheels on converted 6 inch david bradley garden plow, i was just wondering, the bigger brinley plows seems to always have the depth wheel so i was wondering if it came with it instead of as an accessory,

#29 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2011 - 09:20 PM

Here's the nearly new 10" plow I bought for $80. Now that the initial disappointment of it not being 12" has worn off, I am very pleased with my buy. It has been rigged to attach to a Sears tractor, but very crudely done. He welded that rod like crazy to the sleeve hitch, so will be fun torching it free. I put it in it's correct place in this pic, but they had the coulter shaft jammed inbetween the twin beams! Why on earth they thought it went in there I can't imagine. They had to use a pry bar hard to spread the beams to get that shaft in there, and then the coulter tracked almost 2" off line.

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#30 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2011 - 09:29 PM

Dan, are you planning on useing that wheel there in the picture as a depth wheel?




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