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#16 xochytl OFFLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2011 - 09:48 AM

I have to agree with Brian, the knowledge base here is impressive to say the least. The engine is not a 68 as the dipstick does not go straight up but angles away from the engine slightly. I also scraped some paint out of the notched area and found green underneath the white. Not exactly a sure thing since green paint is available to anyone, but the notch looks well done like it was done at the factory. If this is correct this would only leave it being a frame from the 1970 model since they switched to drum brakes in 71. No sure things here except it's a 140 from one of the two years and has been changed significantly. Doesn't really matter in the end, but sure does make it hard to match parts if the serial number on the tag isn't correct. Do appreciate all the help in solving this and can't wait to get started putting it back together. So far only been trying to piece the engine together while mostly working on an abomination for resale, 73 110 someone has stripped down and fitted as a puller. Can't imagine why anyone would put a four foot tall four inch diameter chrome smoke stack on a 110, but at least parts are easy to find and I only paid $50 for it. Thanks, Michael

#17 MAV OFFLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2011 - 08:57 PM

Guys I am no expert at all, these are just some things that I have pick up through the years and thought I would pass them on. I hope that I have not came across as a know it all because that is not what I have intended but hoped you would enjoy the information that I have posted .

Mark
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#18 xochytl OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2011 - 10:30 AM

Your intentions ring true Mark, can't tell you how much I appreciate your sharing the finer details of something I am very interested in. It is after all why I posted and why I am here. Keep up the kind work. Thanks much,
Michael

#19 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2011 - 02:01 PM

Mark, I went back and reread your post and I think you came across as someone who knows what they a talking about. Glad to have you and keep passing along the info.
Micheal, good luck with your 'Johnny Cash' tractor. No matter the year, hope it gives you great service.

#20 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2011 - 06:33 PM

Guys I am no expert at all, these are just some things that I have pick up through the years and thought I would pass them on. I hope that I have not came across as a know it all because that is not what I have intended but hoped you would enjoy the information that I have posted .

Mark


I like to complement people such as yourself who go out of their way to supply information to help others solve problems. I think we all have info about very specific aspects of this hobby. By freely sharing with others we help build the knowledge base. In no way did you come across as a know it all. We need your input when you have something to share and I hope you will continue to contribute in the future. By sharing information we all learn and benefit and it will make this forum a better place.

#21 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2011 - 06:49 PM

...By sharing information we all learn and benefit and it will make this forum a better place.


I'll throw an Amen on that! I believe that everyone who has gone through one of these projects has had to have learned a thing or two. If we share what we know, and listen to what others have to say, we'll all be that much further ahead! Keep up the great work guys!

#22 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2011 - 08:04 PM

Turns out the seat is not original, almost new. It has disk brakes with a single pedal though the last owner kindly bought the shaft with three pedals and some different brake rods to go with it in case I want to make it with dual brake pedals. Thought I had it solved with the points notch, but perhaps not. Thanks for all the help. M



Michael, After reading this post, I believe you to have a frame from a 120, and the rest of the parts are from different year model's of 140's. I say this because of the pedal issues, the 120 only had a single pedal on the left side for brake/clutch release. That would also take care of the cut out issue. 120's only came as a H-1 tractor. I hope this helps and doesn't add to the confusion.

#23 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2011 - 08:15 PM

In 1970- 71(only 2 years in prodution), JohnDeere offered the model 120 with a 12 horse motor, 2 hp less than the 140. The transmission used a new style to Deere’s hydrostatic line. The new style used a pinion and ring gear design. This version of the transmission was not introduced to the model 140 until the model year of 1971. Like the 140, a single lever on the right side of the steering wheel controlled direction, speed and braking. The 120 also had a single pedal on the left side that functioned as the clutch and the brake. Independent brakes were not offered on the 120.
The model 120 offered hydraulic lift to the owner. A single lever on the left hand side of the steering wheel provided lift to the rockshaft and to an optional set of spools in the front of the tractor. Three lever hydraulics, like those available on the model 140, were not an option for the 120.
Unlike the model 140, the rear of the fender deck on the model 120 did not offer the cutouts for the upper link on the 3 point hitch or the rear hydraulic openings.
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#24 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2011 - 05:46 AM

Brian, thanks for that info. I'm learning a lot about these tractors just by reading posts.

#25 xochytl OFFLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2011 - 10:52 AM

I think we are finally getting down to the issue here and have to agree that the frame and engine are from a 120. I checked the fender pan and it has both plugged holes for two lines and the cutout for hydraulic opening. Anyone know a site I can check the serial number from the engine? This might be the easiest way to check on the year before I start rebuilding it. Sounds like the PO bought a lot of extra parts that aren't needed or can't be used. The extra three spool hydraulics unit, hoses, fittings, and levers seem like extra parts now along with the three pedal jackshaft and special brake rods. More Ebay items...
http://gardentractor...riginal=1&c=631

#26 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2011 - 03:11 PM

If I were you, Iwould build it back as a 120, There are very few of the 120's around.

#27 xochytl OFFLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2011 - 09:42 PM

Sounds like the plan, a 120 with single brakes and single hydraulics. I checked the engine serial number and it turns out to be a 67. Must be from another unit. Bored out to .30 over gives it the exact same size as a 14hp. Should be just fine. Will post photos when it's done. Thanks for all the help, didn't know what I had received, but knew it would end up being a free tractor of sorts. Might end up a new favorite. M

#28 MAV OFFLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2011 - 09:50 PM

If it has disk brakes it can't be a 120. Also the frames changed when they went to the drum brake rearend.

Mark

#29 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2011 - 10:07 PM

That is true Mark, I said that I thought the frame was a 120 and the rest of the parts are a mix of 140 parts from various years..

#30 MAV OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2011 - 06:27 PM

UPDATE: After doing a little more reasearch I have discovered that I had posted something incorrect. I found that the 1968 front bumper is not welded into place and is also bolted to the frame like the rest of the 140. I am sorry that I may have mislead you all. So I am going with it being a 1968 140 H1 frame being that is has no brake pedals. Being the motor was dated a 67 it may be correct just may have been short block at some time but used the same engine tins. Seems like alot of the 68 140's I have seen have been shortblocked or replaced at some time so they have the angled dipsticks.

Again I apologize for my mistake.
Mark




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