
i put some ATF in the oil this time
#1
Guest_jdecker94_*
Posted August 10, 2011 - 03:13 PM
#2
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Posted August 10, 2011 - 03:28 PM
Rislone Engine Treatment
- Bolens 1000 said thank you
#3
Guest_jdecker94_*
Posted August 10, 2011 - 04:21 PM
#4
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Posted August 10, 2011 - 10:24 PM
Good luck and let us know how it goes please.
#5
Guest_jdecker94_*
Posted August 11, 2011 - 10:02 AM
#6
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Posted August 11, 2011 - 12:26 PM
As to what makes them stick that's a good question with a few different answers and I'm sure I'll miss some, but here's what I have found :
1) The ring is worn allowing oil and carbon to get into the groove and has gummed up the ring, which may need to be re-ringed no matter what you try.
2) Rust has formed on the ring and caused it to stick in the ring grooves (as in an engine that has sat a long time) again it may need to be repaired but it's worth a try to get it loose ?
3) The previous owner didn't change the oil regularly allowing the engine to sludge up and depositing some under this rings hence they stick.
I'm sure I have missed some other reasons but these are the ones I have run into the most, I hope this helps ?
Ron
#7
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Posted August 11, 2011 - 12:30 PM
Overly rich mixture can wash lubricants off of the cylinder wall causing scouring and seizing of the ring.
#8
Guest_jdecker94_*
Posted August 11, 2011 - 12:53 PM
#9
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Posted August 11, 2011 - 01:34 PM
one day i took the head off the side that burns oil. full of carbon. it looked like mountain ranges of carbon.
Ok well if it's burning oil it needs to be re-ringed at the minimum no amount of loosening the rings will help.
As to your statement about oil IMO 10&20 wt. is just too light most OPE engines (90%) use SAE 30wt, why are you using 10wt ?
The lighter oil could be moving past the rings causing the carboning ?
And Cvans is right if it's running hot that contributes to oil thickening and carbon, ever see oil that is heated up ? It turns into a brown/black sticky mess, if you doubt it look at any car engine that has leaking valve covers those brown stains are really burned oil and sludge.
Ask me how I know (former owner of a Plymouth Voyager with a leaky 3.0 liter V6) ?
#10
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Posted August 11, 2011 - 05:56 PM
#11
Guest_jdecker94_*
Posted August 11, 2011 - 08:01 PM
#12
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Posted August 12, 2011 - 01:05 AM
actually a stuck ring can cause a decent amount of oil burning as ive read on the internet. and then new rings leads to a new piston because my one is mushroomed. which leads to it being out of bore spec. it just never ends once you take the pistons out.
The only reason I can figure you don't want to tear into the engine is cost ? Nothing wrong with that but bottle fixes will only take you so far give the Rislone or SeaFoam a try and if that doesn't fix it then you know what you have to do.
You never did say why you're using such a light weight oil ?
Ron
#13
Guest_jdecker94_*
Posted August 12, 2011 - 12:41 PM
#14
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Posted August 12, 2011 - 01:06 PM
I agree with the 30 wt usage. Especially when it comes summer use. The tolerances in these engines is much coarser than newer engines. Without the heavier oil, it will have a tendency to burn more, carbon more, and stick rings more. IDK about running hotter, but it may go to reason it could.
- Ranchkingron said thank you
#15
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Posted August 12, 2011 - 04:09 PM
- Ranchkingron said thank you