Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



- - - - -

i put some ATF in the oil this time


  • Please log in to reply
16 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_jdecker94_*

Guest_jdecker94_*
  • Guests
  • Member No: 0
  • 0 Thanks

Posted August 10, 2011 - 03:13 PM

so i changed the oil and i put 1 quart of ATF in it. 16oz of no smoke and then the rest with 20wt oil. not sure if it was a great combo but hopefully i just have a stuck ring and the ATF will unstick it. i ran the tractor a good hour today at full bore doing some more grading in the mud. didnt burn too much oil. maybe 10 or 12 ounces. maybe it means theres a sign of recovery in the future. maybe next time i change the oil ill use 10wt and ATF. the 20wt seems thick but it doesnt burn as much now.

#2 Cvans OFFLINE  

Cvans

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5412
  • 4,480 Thanks
  • 5,011 posts
  • Location: Eastern SD.

Posted August 10, 2011 - 03:28 PM

You might want to consider Rislone. I have had two engines with stuck lifers and this solved the problem both times. I'm not a big fan of additives but this stuff worked.
Rislone Engine Treatment
  • Bolens 1000 said thank you

#3 Guest_jdecker94_*

Guest_jdecker94_*
  • Guests
  • Member No: 0
  • 0 Thanks

Posted August 10, 2011 - 04:21 PM

thanks for the advice cvans. next oil change ill give that a try. how long did it take to work? a few oil changes?

#4 Cvans ONLINE  

Cvans

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5412
  • 4,480 Thanks
  • 5,011 posts
  • Location: Eastern SD.

Posted August 10, 2011 - 10:24 PM

No, I received the results I was looking for after adding the Rislone the first time. In your case I would probably change the oil after ten hours and add it again. Your results may differ but I know if the situation happens again I would not hesitate to use it. I just hope that it is still the same product it was then. It appears to make the same claims.
Good luck and let us know how it goes please.

#5 Guest_jdecker94_*

Guest_jdecker94_*
  • Guests
  • Member No: 0
  • 0 Thanks

Posted August 11, 2011 - 10:02 AM

will do. now my question is how do rings get stuck?

#6 Ranchkingron OFFLINE  

Ranchkingron

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 1613
  • 28 Thanks
  • 183 posts
  • Location: Michigan

Posted August 11, 2011 - 12:26 PM

SeaFoam added to the oil has worked to unstick rings and valves on some of the motorcycles I've restored.

As to what makes them stick that's a good question with a few different answers and I'm sure I'll miss some, but here's what I have found :

1) The ring is worn allowing oil and carbon to get into the groove and has gummed up the ring, which may need to be re-ringed no matter what you try.

2) Rust has formed on the ring and caused it to stick in the ring grooves (as in an engine that has sat a long time) again it may need to be repaired but it's worth a try to get it loose ?

3) The previous owner didn't change the oil regularly allowing the engine to sludge up and depositing some under this rings hence they stick.

I'm sure I have missed some other reasons but these are the ones I have run into the most, I hope this helps ?

Ron

#7 Cvans ONLINE  

Cvans

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5412
  • 4,480 Thanks
  • 5,011 posts
  • Location: Eastern SD.

Posted August 11, 2011 - 12:30 PM

Only two other things I can think of is cylinder wall temperature. Insufficient airflow on an air cooled engine can drastically increase the cylinder wall temps to the point that carbon starts to form on the rings and in the ring grooves effectively seizing the ring.
Overly rich mixture can wash lubricants off of the cylinder wall causing scouring and seizing of the ring.

#8 Guest_jdecker94_*

Guest_jdecker94_*
  • Guests
  • Member No: 0
  • 0 Thanks

Posted August 11, 2011 - 12:53 PM

one day i took the head off the side that burns oil. full of carbon. it looked like mountain ranges of carbon.

#9 Ranchkingron OFFLINE  

Ranchkingron

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 1613
  • 28 Thanks
  • 183 posts
  • Location: Michigan

Posted August 11, 2011 - 01:34 PM

one day i took the head off the side that burns oil. full of carbon. it looked like mountain ranges of carbon.


Ok well if it's burning oil it needs to be re-ringed at the minimum no amount of loosening the rings will help.

As to your statement about oil IMO 10&20 wt. is just too light most OPE engines (90%) use SAE 30wt, why are you using 10wt ?

The lighter oil could be moving past the rings causing the carboning ?

And Cvans is right if it's running hot that contributes to oil thickening and carbon, ever see oil that is heated up ? It turns into a brown/black sticky mess, if you doubt it look at any car engine that has leaking valve covers those brown stains are really burned oil and sludge.

Ask me how I know (former owner of a Plymouth Voyager with a leaky 3.0 liter V6) ?

#10 Rocking416 OFFLINE  

Rocking416

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 1546
  • 76 Thanks
  • 191 posts
  • Location: Alexandria V.A.

Posted August 11, 2011 - 05:56 PM

I have to laugh last forum i was on and we had subject like this they banned me I mean not everyone can afford a perfect engine rebuild. However with my experience synthetic oil dosent burn usally use that in my smoky engine and it helps them they puff a little bit but it helps them

#11 Guest_jdecker94_*

Guest_jdecker94_*
  • Guests
  • Member No: 0
  • 0 Thanks

Posted August 11, 2011 - 08:01 PM

actually a stuck ring can cause a decent amount of oil burning as ive read on the internet. and then new rings leads to a new piston because my one is mushroomed. which leads to it being out of bore spec. it just never ends once you take the pistons out.

#12 Ranchkingron ONLINE  

Ranchkingron

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 1613
  • 28 Thanks
  • 183 posts
  • Location: Michigan

Posted August 12, 2011 - 01:05 AM

actually a stuck ring can cause a decent amount of oil burning as ive read on the internet. and then new rings leads to a new piston because my one is mushroomed. which leads to it being out of bore spec. it just never ends once you take the pistons out.


The only reason I can figure you don't want to tear into the engine is cost ? Nothing wrong with that but bottle fixes will only take you so far give the Rislone or SeaFoam a try and if that doesn't fix it then you know what you have to do.

You never did say why you're using such a light weight oil ?

Ron

#13 Guest_jdecker94_*

Guest_jdecker94_*
  • Guests
  • Member No: 0
  • 0 Thanks

Posted August 12, 2011 - 12:41 PM

30wt seems way too thick for a small engine. also isnt sae30 and 30wt different?

#14 MH81 OFFLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,271 Thanks
  • 28,609 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted August 12, 2011 - 01:06 PM

30wt is sometimes how people used to refer to non-detergent. It's more or less become a generic term. The viscosity is the same between SAE and Non Detergent.

I agree with the 30 wt usage. Especially when it comes summer use. The tolerances in these engines is much coarser than newer engines. Without the heavier oil, it will have a tendency to burn more, carbon more, and stick rings more. IDK about running hotter, but it may go to reason it could.
  • Ranchkingron said thank you

#15 mikebramel OFFLINE  

mikebramel

    Ron Paul

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 82
  • 176 Thanks
  • 1,009 posts
  • Location: Milwaukee

Posted August 12, 2011 - 04:09 PM

The clearances on an air cooled motor are larger because the operating temp range is alot wider than a water cooled engine. The larger clearances mean a thicker oil and the straight weight oil has a higher sheer point for these SMOOTH running engines
  • Ranchkingron said thank you




Top