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I need more traction???


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#1 mjj5605 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2011 - 12:49 AM

I just got my kid a cub 122. Went to the pulls with it last weekend, entered her in the 750# stock class and the 1000# class. Everytime she pulls she ends up powering out, around the 130-140ft mark. The 750 class she has no weights on the tractor, 1000 class I add 200#'s of wheel weights. She only weighs 70#s. I am running the 23x8.50x12 turf tires. I tried more air pressure then I tried letting all the air out(most of it). She just can't get traction. Hitch is 13" high which is all that your allowed. Will a 26x12x12 tire help? I heard you get more pounds per sqaure inch on a narrow tire, or should I goto a tractor type tire with lugs. Please help I would really like her to do well.

#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2011 - 07:18 AM

:welcome: to GTTalk!

I will start by saying I haven't ever pulled GTs. I have pulled a few of the farm tractors stock. Getting the power into the ground can be difficult. Go too far with anything and you loose your "stock" status. One thing I learned with my Massey... Full throttle isn't the only way to go. On farm tractors, a good working gov can be your best friend in the field and on the track. By watching the guys who go before you, you can sometimes figure where the bad spots are and throttle back. If you let the engine and gov do the work, it will provide the power it needs without (hopefully) loosing traction.

If there is any way to loose some front weight that may help... Make more available for traction. Be sure to have wheelie bars.

As for tires, at the last GT pull I watched, the few turf tires I saw did very well. The track was a clay base and not wet. Ags work better in mud, or loose stuff, turf on more solid surfaces as there is more ground contact. If there is a spinout point or a loose spot, tell her to avoid it. If you get a set of ags, you may want to keep the turfs, mount them on spare rims & take them along. You can change them back once you get there if the course looks like they would do better.

Wish her luck for me & tell her not to give up yet. Most of the people there have been doing this for years and she will learn. Stress to her that having a good time is much better than a ribbon anyways.

Thanks for being involved, she's a lucky kid by the sounds of it. :thumbs:

Edited by MH81, August 09, 2011 - 11:27 AM.


#3 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2011 - 08:03 AM

You need as much tire as possible first, second you need a balance of speed and torque , this you will need to figure out by experimentation. If she is "powering" out your not going fast enough! She should stall first, speed is you best friend here, things in motion stay in motion, never ever forget this, you may need to mess with gearing to get the best combo, but it will pay out in the end.
Good luck, and keep us posted please, oh yeah, pictures are a must !

#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2011 - 08:30 AM

If the track is loose then turfs will spin way easier than AG's. Look at what the other pullers are using and maybe talk to them about gearing, technique etc. It will take time to get the hang of it and become competetive.

#5 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2011 - 09:40 AM

If the track is compacted sticky clay then the turfs are the best bet but if it is loose then like Brian mentioned the ags do better.

skyrydr hit the nail on the head to that you should have her try going faster, next gear up. Problem with the next highest gear is it might be too much gear. Good thing is with the Cubs there are a lot of gear sets available from various places to change the gearing.

Switching to a 26" tall ag tire might be a great combination of both traction and taller gearing.

Edited by olcowhand, January 11, 2012 - 08:08 PM.
changed "ags" to "turfs"


#6 mjj5605 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2011 - 11:14 PM

Im sorry I wrote the wrong thing daughter doesn't power out, she is spinning out.

#7 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 10, 2011 - 04:13 AM

Spinning out or powering out are the same thing .
You need to get things moving quickly. Does the tractor lift the front end ? At all ? At the start, or at the end before digging holes? Pulling is an art all in it self, and not easy at first, or ever for that matter. Study your competition! Tractor set up is a mathematical formula based on a triangle and center of gravity, get these correct and you will go far. Good luck

#8 venisonslayer128 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2011 - 09:23 PM

I'm new to this forum but not pulling.. been pulling antiques for 10 years and pulled wrenches on a Prostock (think NTPA only in Canada) for three..

tips.. Traction isnt everything you could have a great setup and great tires but if you pick a wrong line your toast.. on a shiny clay track run a lower gear.. clay sucks up power so you need torque.. on clay I pull in 1st with antiques or 5 1/2 with the prostock (custom gears) use dull tires with no lug Dick Cepeks makes them.. 1" lug cut to the carcass from front to back 26.12.12 size TALLER is better more lugs are better.. you want less lug in clay and a low tire pressure thus putting torque to the track.. use bias ply tires not radials (better sidewalls for wrinkling)

not to offend anyone but turf tires are for cutting grass they are made to run on grass not pull a sled.

in stone dust or sand run a higher gear.. try 2nd or 3rd.. now in stock antique we use old worn tires from a farmer drive up the road a few miles and thats it good for the engine and the tires.. a hand held wood plainer works good too we have one for the prostock thats never seen wood..

other tips.. this is stock so don't go full throttle as soon as you get the chain tight aviods bogging the motor... AVOID holes and with expeirence you'll be able to see them.. you can let off a little through them but its all timing.. keep the tractor and sled as straight as possible aviod making the tractor work more than it has to.. plan your line before you even hook to the boat and dont wait till the last second to avoid holes make gradual movements if holes are on the right side start turning left gradually right off the line when the boat is lightest

finally wieght on a clay track (depending on the tractor) this takes work but with 200lbs ballast i'd start with 40# on the front and 80# each side as close to the back axle as possible you want to carry a wheelie but not be all over the place so play with it until you balance the tractor took me 3 years to get the aniques set up perfect

in sand all the weight goes on the back but play with it

ANY questions regarding set up or strategy just ask.. i've been pulling for 10 years grand father has been for 19 and uncle has been for 32 i will find your answer

Edited by venisonslayer128, August 12, 2011 - 09:38 PM.
another tip


#9 venisonslayer128 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2011 - 09:41 PM

and spin out and power out arent the same thing.. powering out is stallling the tractor and spinning out is loss of traction

#10 Rick Brumback OFFLINE  

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Posted August 14, 2011 - 10:28 AM

Well traction is a fickle mistress.A few things you can do.Move the transaxel to the rear hole,move the front end far front as you can,this gives a 52 inch wheelbase.Tire pressure,on a hard tight track,more air,a soft loose track less air.This is normally guess work.On a hard track I run about 8 pounds,soft track about 3 pounds.Okay,by extending the wheelbase you can put more weight on the backend and less on the front end.I usually run 40 pounds in front of each rear tire and 25 on the front.Also,if you go to brian millers tips and tricks you will find tons of useful info about this.I have put up a couple photos of both my pullers,take a look and you will see a few things you may like.

#11 nev OFFLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2012 - 07:43 PM

Check the rules where you pull as far as tire size ag tires are best. also a light tractor weighted up for a weight class will pull better than a heavy tractor with few weights. Distribution is the key.

#12 timtractor OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2012 - 02:02 PM

If you are loosing traction with putting the weights in the wheels. I would try making a weight bracket that mounts behind the seat slightly above the hitch (so that it is not in the way of sled operator hooking it up). Don't get this weight brack too high or the tractor will raise the front end up too early.I can add 90# IH suit case weights on the back for the hevier classes.
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