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1976 mf14


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#31 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2011 - 02:03 PM

Man those are three of the ugliest seats I've ever seen. Its weird, those seats dont look bad on newer mowers, but put them on a old tractor and they are horrendous, I think all the Masseys used a Michigan style low back seat, definitely not a dinette chair seat



Don't hold back Frank...tell us how you really feel! :bigrofl: I have a similar seat in gray on my Kubota, and I like them. Mine has fold down arm rests, and I'll say one thing.....comfortable!

#32 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2011 - 07:40 PM

The seat on my MF14 that your all talking about is for sale, any body interested?

#33 Frank Morris OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2011 - 10:58 PM

Don't hold back Frank...tell us how you really feel! :bigrofl: I have a similar seat in gray on my Kubota, and I like them. Mine has fold down arm rests, and I'll say one thing.....comfortable!


I can never turn around very well with the highback seat, and man it really doesnt look good AT ALL, I've seen dinette and boat seats that look comfortable, but I still wouldnt put a them on my mower any more than I would put a barcalounger on it.

#34 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2011 - 08:57 PM

Today I was working on the 14 again, installed a new seat, the one that came with it was ripped. I also replaced the muffler with a new one, the old one the outlet pipe was missing and there was an exhaust leak where the inlet pipe clamped on the motor. I used the Cub Cadet tractor muffler, easy to get. This is a picture of an used one that I had the new one looks the same.
muffler 006..jpg
The inlet pipe is the same size as the exhaust elbow on the engine so I welded on a larger pipe over the muffler inlet pipe and that fit over the motors outlet elbow nice. Cut off the bracket that was on the new muffler, mounted the muffler using the 14s brackets and it fits good, now all the exhaust goes outside the engine bay.
Ran a tank of fuel though it cutting some grass, got the carb's fuel mixtures set and it runs real good, quiet. There's no smoke out the exhaust at all, but there IS some out the crankcase breather.

#35 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2011 - 07:00 AM

There's no smoke out the exhaust at all, but there IS some out the crankcase breather.


Ok, so what would cause that? One of my K321s does the same, under heavy load.

#36 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2011 - 09:08 AM

Ok, so what would cause that? One of my K321s does the same, under heavy load.


I say blow by from the combustion chamber past the rings to the crankcase and out the breather.
The harder I push my 14 the more it smokes out the breather, it does use a bit of oil.
There is no smoke, not a trace out the exhaust.
Time to deglaze the cly walls and new rings I think.

#37 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2012 - 08:31 PM

Update
Since I got this it has being plagued with fuel leaks, seems to leak out everywhere whenever it feels like it.
so today I decided to fix it once and for all replaced all the fuel lines, filter and fuel pump, got rid of the sediment bowl to.
Put a new fuel pump on and got everything hooked up nice and tight, so far no leaks, will see tomorrow in the daylight after work if it stays dry, no leaks I hope.
Picture shows before repair.
MF14 005.JPG
If I got the fuel leaks fixed then I think I put a rebuild kit in the carb as I bought one when I bought the fuel pump, I also got throttle bushing kit as this one is sloppy.
The motor runs good with the carb the way it is on it but It might run better at idle with the new bushing in and kit in, can't hurt.

#38 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2012 - 05:56 PM

Spent some time on it today mounting the mower deck and getting all ready for grass cutting.
Had to replace 1 belt, greased the spindles, the blades on it are new and sharp and spent a lot of time adjusting the deck to get it to sit right.
Somebody has put 2 extra wheels on the front and they had it riding on all 4, what I did was set it up the way it's suppose to be by adjusting the front mower arms that come from the mule drive so that it hangs at the right level and rides on the rear wheels. I set the front wheels like you would for anti scalp wheels, 1/2" up off the ground, I tried it out a bit and it seems OK. My grass is short, just starting to grow so it didn't cut much but it seems to be even.
I like the extra wheels on the front, I think it's a good upgrade.

I also discovered that the charging circuit is not working, no DC output, I got 12volts AC at idle and 30volts AC at full speed, measured from the 2 wires that come form the stator coil.
So I think I need a regulator for it as the rest of the wiring seems OK.
I really don't want to buy a regulator as I'm selling it but I can't look someone in the eye and say everything works on it.

Still haven't put the carb kit in it yet, maybe to nite.
001.JPG 002.JPG

#39 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2012 - 06:29 PM

Manual says anything over 28V AC(I think) indicates stator is OK.
Remember the key switch I asked you about the other day?
Check that the right one is in there.
That was the problem on mine.
PO had put in a magneto style switch. PTO would kill the battery in an hour.

I thought it was the reg too, and after trying a couple, I looked at the switch.

Edited by IamSherwood, March 25, 2012 - 06:31 PM.


#40 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2012 - 08:30 PM

Manual says anything over 28V AC(I think) indicates stator is OK.
Remember the key switch I asked you about the other day?
Check that the right one is in there.
That was the problem on mine.
PO had put in a magneto style switch. PTO would kill the battery in an hour.

I thought it was the reg too, and after trying a couple, I looked at the switch.

I'm pretty sure I got the right key switch in there, 4 position, battery ignition, all positions work.
Off - Ign+lights on - ign on - start
The DC wire on the regulator is connected to the key but when running no increase in DC voltage.
I think I'll try one off of one of my other tractors, see if it works.

#41 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2012 - 08:16 PM

Well today I finally got the carb kit put in it, the carb was clean inside only problem was the throttle bushing at the top of the shaft. I picked up some carb kits and bushings a while ago so I put a new bushing in this one, man it's a tight fit, a little to tight as now I notice throttle response is really slow. Going to try to free it up some and if I can't I"ll have to pull it off again and somehow loosen it up. The bushings that I got came with new throttle plate screws.

Also I managed to fix the charging circuit, I have 3 used regulators lying around so I tried them all in the tractor.
1 N/G, no DC voltage rise at all, another is working and there is a DC voltage rise at full speed, but the 3rd one has more DC voltage output 13 - 14volts so that's the one in it now. Hopefully that problem is fixed.

A week ago I fixed a slow leak in one of the rear tires, put a plug in it and it seems to be holding air fine now.

Greased the steering box and the steering shaft that goes through the frame, man those fittings are hard to get to. Also I noticed that the shaft that goes through the frame has a 3/4" nut on it, it was loose, tightened it up and what a difference in the steering, a lot less play and the tractor turns tighter now. I had to change 1 tie rod end, it was just sitting on there, gravity held it together.

#42 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2012 - 10:25 PM

Really nice 14 Doug, glad you're giving it some TLC before the next owner takes it. Good news on the reg being the charging problem, better than a stator.

#43 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2012 - 09:03 AM

Well I've had some time to use and test this tractor and it seems OK, got the throttle freed up, governor works as it should, charging system seems OK and I gave it some new tail lights.
Right now this is the only grass cutter I have that's ready to go.
001.JPG

#44 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2012 - 12:42 PM

Tractor sold, to be used in a TV commercial.




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