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Worn throttle bushing on Kohler carb


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#1 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2011 - 08:20 AM

What would be the symptoms caused by a worn throttle shaft bushing on a K321? There is a bit of slack in the shaft and I am having some surging problems when the engine is running at low speeds and no load. Adjusting the low speed jet dosen't seem to help. As I richen the mixture it dosen't stop the surging. I am still doubtful that I have the governor linkage set up correctly. Should there be much slack in the spring at idle? It is almost like the spring is too long but it measures the same as the old one. I should have taken pictures before I took it apart. I changed the spring and the governor lever. I positioned the lever to be the same as the old one. This is what it looks like now.
DSCF5981.jpg

#2 ncb OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2011 - 01:29 PM

I had a huge amount of slack in my k321 carb and it had perfect idle and full speed with no surge. my temporary fix was to put a rubber o ring over the shaft with some 5 minute epoxy to hold it to the carb body,will peel off easy when im ready to put bushing in.local place wanted $320 for a new carb so im definately going to rebush original.i have got the fixed main jet walbro if it makes a difference.stiga paint refresh 001.jpg and heres a pic of some fresh paint on the stiga,main front of tractor is original paint, motor cover ,fenders and craftsman deck are valspar rattlecan industrial yellow and i am definately happy with the close color match.
stiga paint refresh 002.jpg
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#3 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2011 - 03:57 PM

All my Kohler's springs had so much slack at an idle that they actually pushed against the governor arm.
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#4 anixon92 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2011 - 07:14 PM

you can buy a bushing for the throttle shaft at brain millers Brian Miller's Engine Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services
i think its like $5.00
i just replace one on my k301 and it runs great.
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#5 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2011 - 05:28 AM

All my Kohler's springs had so much slack at an idle that they actually pushed against the governor arm.


I had the same problem but attempted to adjust it so that it wasn't pushing like that. I could not get the throttle lever down below about 1/3. I think I'll look at the governor lever and do the adjustment that's in the manual. Maybe it is out of adjustment. I will soon have the tractor back in service. At that time I can see how it behaves under a load.

#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2011 - 05:29 AM

I had a huge amount of slack in my k321 carb and it had perfect idle and full speed with no surge. my temporary fix was to put a rubber o ring over the shaft with some 5 minute epoxy to hold it to the carb body,will peel off easy when im ready to put bushing in.local place wanted $320 for a new carb so im definately going to rebush original.i have got the fixed main jet walbro if it makes a difference.[ATTACH=CONFIG]18210[/ATTACH] and heres a pic of some fresh paint on the stiga,main front of tractor is original paint, motor cover ,fenders and craftsman deck are valspar rattlecan industrial yellow and i am definately happy with the close color match.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]18211[/ATTACH]


I was thinking of doing something like that. I may give that a try. Thanks for the input.

#7 ncb OFFLINE  

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Posted August 06, 2011 - 02:23 AM

Glad i could help with my mickey mouse quick fix , at least it is totaly cheap and non damaging in regards to doing the proper repair later . I tried to do the proper repair to my genuine 11hp honda carb by stripping it down , soaking in BOP carb cleaner , replacing the cracked float and now it runs like a bag O crap . on further inspection its looking like a chinese clone with a genuine honda GX340 decal , oh well . should have a keihin carb but it says riu*ing on the carb body , live and learn i guess.gt 003.jpg you can see the slight color diff between the recoil start and the other red portion of the motor.

Edited by rexknightly, August 07, 2011 - 03:16 AM.


#8 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 06, 2011 - 09:13 AM

Glad i could help with my mickey mouse quick fix , at least it is totaly cheap and non damaging in regards to doing the proper repair later . I tried to do the proper repair to my genuine 11hp honda carb by stripping it down , soaking in BOP carb cleaner , replaicing the cracked float and now it runs like a bag O crap . on further inspection its looking like a chinese clone with a genuine honda GX340 decal , oh well . should have a keihin carb but it says riu*ing on the carb body , live and learn i guess.[ATTACH=CONFIG]18339[/ATTACH] you can see the slight color diff between the recoil start and the other red portion of the motor.


That bites! Carbs are still a big mystery to me and I hate digging into one. The engine is not surging when under load but it stumbles every few seconds and doesn't seem to be running quite right. I'm going to check the points to see if they are OK.

#9 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2011 - 11:05 PM

I had a similar problem with a Kohler K241 on my Cub Cadet. I removed the clamped on part (sorry don't know the name) and measured the diameter of the throttle shaft and the bore with a set of calipers. I had several aluminum washers with rubber gaskets glued to them. The through hole was about 3/16", and the OD about 1/2". I held it in a vice grip pliers and drilled a hole the right diameter to be close that of the throttle shaft. Then I put a machine screw through it and used a nut to tighten it down (1/4" I think). Then I chucked the screw in my drill press and used a file to turn the outside diameter down.

When I got close to the ID of the hole, I held the file very carefully and only turned down the aluminum part of the washer...this left a little larger diameter on the rubber gasket . Then I just pushed it into place over the throttle shaft and down into the hole. Seals well--the rubber on the OD grips the hole, and seals lightly against the throttle shaft. Hope this made sense.

Utah Smitty
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#10 ncb OFFLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2011 - 12:29 AM

I had a similar problem with a Kohler K241 on my Cub Cadet. I removed the clamped on part (sorry don't know the name) and measured the diameter of the throttle shaft and the bore with a set of calipers. I had several aluminum washers with rubber gaskets glued to them. The through hole was about 3/16", and the OD about 1/2". I held it in a vice grip pliers and drilled a hole the right diameter to be close that of the throttle shaft. Then I put a machine screw through it and used a nut to tighten it down (1/4" I think). Then I chucked the screw in my drill press and used a file to turn the outside diameter down.

When I got close to the ID of the hole, I held the file very carefully and only turned down the aluminum part of the washer...this left a little larger diameter on the rubber gasket . Then I just pushed it into place over the throttle shaft and down into the hole. Seals well--the rubber on the OD grips the hole, and seals lightly against the throttle shaft. Hope this made sense.

Utah Smitty


makes perfect sense smitty,except i was refering to the throttle shaft in the carburetor and i think your you are talking about the shaft that comes outside the side of the block from the internal speed regulator .but thats a dam good idea and sounds like a good fix should i run across that problem in the future.now i have to go back and revue if i was giving good advice on the wrong part myself. :blush2: correct me if i am wrong , would,nt be the first time i got it all screwed up.

#11 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 31, 2011 - 06:24 PM

No, I did it on the carburetor itself. There was a counter bore on the hole for the throttle shaft. I didn't want to mess with grinding off the staked-on brass screws on the throttle plate, so I just unclamped the piece that connects the throttle cable to the shaft and put the washer on it, then replaced <edited> the clamp <edited> the shaft. The bore for the throttle shaft was wallered out, and I used the washer (they're found on screws used for installing metal roofs, and can sometimes be bought separately) to seal it and help center the shaft in the bore.

Edited by Utah Smitty, August 31, 2011 - 10:56 PM.
Unclear sentence


#12 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted August 31, 2011 - 07:28 PM

This is what I did on a Tecumseh 12hp engine that had too much throttle shaft play

POST #10 >http://gardentractor...1972-mf12g-264/

#13 ncb OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2011 - 10:55 PM

No, I did it on the carburetor itself. There was a counter bore on the hole for the throttle shaft. I didn't want to mess with grinding off the staked-on brass screws on the throttle plate, so I just unclamped the piece that connects the throttle cable to the shaft and put the washer on it, then replaced <edited> the clamp <edited> the shaft. The bore for the throttle shaft was wallered out, and I used the washer (they're found on screws used for installing metal roofs, and can sometimes be bought separately) to seal it and help center the shaft in the bore.


Thanks,that explains it,diff carb. the size of the bore threw me off , mines just the strait hole drilled through the carb body. so now on second thought i should remove the carb and o ring ,fill the gap with JB weld and see how durable that repair is over the winter .and use some locktite red on the throttle plate screws since they are screwed in with nothin else to hold them.

#14 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2011 - 12:36 AM

Thanks,that explains it,diff carb. the size of the bore threw me off , mines just the strait hole drilled through the carb body. so now on second thought i should remove the carb and o ring ,fill the gap with JB weld and see how durable that repair is over the winter .and use some locktite red on the throttle plate screws since they are screwed in with nothin else to hold them.


JB Weld is pretty good stuff. I used it to repair the plastic top tank to the radiator on my daughter's Toyota. I beveled the crack with a Dremel tool, drilled several 1/16" holes along it, scuffed up the area around the crack with sand paper, then put the JB weld on--forcing it into the holes. It was still holding 3 years later when she got rid of the car.

U S
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#15 lowrider OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2011 - 01:14 PM

This is a clever solution to worn carb shafts and bushings. It has been a bit of a stopping point having to extract pressed-in shaft bushings. This is an adaptable solution to many similar situations. Another solution I recently found to be successful on an old Zenith carb was placing a felt-like packing bushing on the ends of a throttle shaft. This was a leftover from an old carb kit for another type of carb but it is working fine.

Lowrider




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