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Snapper 1855 pto shafts


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#1 jimmyjamesf OFFLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2010 - 09:15 AM

I have found a 1855 snapper locally seems to be pretty much what I have been looking for. The problem being is the PTO shafts are shot for the both the mower and the Tiller. The owner says the that the bearings are falling out of the yokes etc. How hard are these to repair and or find parts for.

Thanks Jim

#2 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2010 - 09:21 AM

I really don't know if they are easily gotten or not, as I just built new shafts for mine. The OE U-joints are NOT grease-able, so I opted to build new shafts using zerk equipped U-joints for durability. The OE joints are also tiny, so my new shafts are much stronger.

#3 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2010 - 09:22 AM

Welcome to GTtalk Jim. I think the pto shafts wearing out are pretty common on the 1650's - 1855's. Don't quote me on it though but there are quite a few guys that have them here so hopefully they can help you out with the bearings and shafts.

Hope you enjoy the site. :D

#4 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2010 - 09:23 AM

I really don't know if they are easily gotten or not, as I just built new shafts for mine. The OE U-joints are NOT grease-able, so I opted to build new shafts using zerk equipped U-joints for durability. The OE joints are also tiny, so my new shafts are much stronger.


You might have to make a couple sets and sell them if you have time or want to, I have seen questions about the pto shafts asked a couple of times in the last year. Just an idea :D

#5 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2010 - 09:39 AM

You might have to make a couple sets and sell them if you have time or want to, I have seen questions about the pto shafts asked a couple of times in the last year. Just an idea :D


Time is the problem...busy time of year just cranking up for me. Basically I bought used "quick-attach" PTO shafts from various makes, then cut off the shaft & welded appropriate, or original shafts to the yokes. On the equipment end, I bought the "weld-it" sprocket hubs from TSC that fit the gearbox, then welded a new or good u-joint to the hub. I'll try to post a pic soon of one of them.

#6 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2010 - 09:48 AM

Very true, you are a very busy man to begin with and now with it rolling in to busier season time does become an issue.

#7 jimmyjamesf OFFLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2010 - 10:35 AM

Pictures would be great. Another quick question before I bite the bullet what would the average price of a 1855 be. I am just looking for a ballpark figure.

Thank you for the quick replies.

Jim

#8 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2010 - 10:45 AM

If I am reading you first post right it has the mower deck and a tiller? Just the tractor normally goes around $800. If it has the tiller with the mower deck and a 3pt hitch I would try to go in at $1,000 although it would probably be worth more but with the pto shafts and bearings needing work there is no reason you can bargain with them.

#9 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2010 - 11:13 AM

Really hard to guestamate a value without pics, but with tiller, even needing work, If I were looking for one, I'd think it worth $1200 or more as a package. BUT, condition is everything, and we only know about the u-joints.

#10 jimmyjamesf OFFLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2010 - 11:24 AM

Overall it looks like it is good shape. The owner did say it burns a little oil is this something I should be concerned about? Sorry to keep asking so many questions. I am looking to get something bigger and better than the flimsy run of the mill generic lawn tractor. From what I have been reading this are fairly solid which must be true as they are 30 or so years old.

#11 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2010 - 12:40 PM

Overall it looks like it is good shape. The owner did say it burns a little oil is this something I should be concerned about? Sorry to keep asking so many questions. I am looking to get something bigger and better than the flimsy run of the mill generic lawn tractor. From what I have been reading this are fairly solid which must be true as they are 30 or so years old.


We are here to help & learn, so don't apologize for asking questions! I've had old Onans that smoked a lot, and still have one, but they will still run strong & long even still. Could be rings worn, valve guides worn, or both, but if engine isn't knocking or making any strange noises, then she'll likely run a long time. I'm running a 1976 Onan BF on my 1980 MF1655 and she's never been rebuilt. Smokes some, but runs strong as ever! I took it partly apart when I found the engine, but put her back together as it looked decent inside. I have an 18hp Onan I'm rebuilding now to replace it though, even though the BF is doing fine.

#12 massey driver ONLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2010 - 02:31 PM

Hi Jim welcome to GTTalk.I hope I can help you with your shaft's. I have the MF1655 and same thing when I bought mine the u-joints were finished.Here was my solution.I went to a tractor supply store in Winnipeg and bought new yokes and a shaft to rebuild mine.There made by Weasler and there a series 6 yokes and cross& bearings The 3/4" x 7/8" shafting is part#404-1214 the cross and brg kit is part # 200-0600 the weld on yoke 3/4"x7/8" is part #300-0600 The 1" splined spring loaded coupler is part #105-0615 the 7/8" round weld on yoke part# is 800-0614 the one I can't find the part # for is the female one that is for th3 3/4"x7/8" shaft to go into there both needed for the tiller and the mower deck.I'll bet if you go into a farm supply store they'll beable to help you out with that one.Sorry I just can't seem to find the part# for that one.What I ended up doing was cutting the small old yokes off the shaft's etc.The tiller splined shaft what I did was once I had cut the end off I took it to my neighbours machine shop and had him turn down the end that the yoke goes on not sure if it was turned down to 7/8" or 3/4" he turned it down just enough so that I could put the new yoke onto the shaft.After I got home I welded the yoke in place and then had to do the same with the rest of the shaft's and yoke's.As you can see you can by weld on yokes that fit onto the 3/4"x7/8" shafting and all you need to do is weld them on.Really quite simple {if your a welder} Now for fitting onto the tiller gear box I aslo bought a 3/4" or 7/8" yoke not sure and had to have that shaft turned down just a bit as well in order to beable to slide the yoke onto that shaft.The mower deck was the same Had to turn that shaft down just a bit as well.I know the shafts are metric I didn't measure them before buying the yokes that I used but it's possible that they make them the proper size.It would save having to turn the shafts down just to beable to put yokes on. I should mention that the shafts where only turned down where the yoke needed to go this way it didn't affect the oil seal size that's in either gear box.I wish I had the part # of the longer female yokes that go on the tiller and the mower deck,I just can't find the numbers right now.I took a picture of the mower shaft and the tiller shaft the tiller shaft I put the shield on from the old one but the mower one you can see the 3/4"x7/8" shaft.Hope this helps.Again its not all that bad to do.I think at the time I did mine 10+ yrs ago to do the complete thing was under $300.I think at that time one shaft from massey was over $500.Oh yeah that also included the one that drive's the hydro pump.I do know that I was able to buy a splined coupler that I had turned down on the outside and had bought a yoke with a bigger shaft size that once I had the coupler turned down I slipped it into the new yoke and welded it into place making the yoke that fit onto the hydro pump splined shaft.The shaft that went to the motor I'am not sure if it's a 1" shaft but I had just bought a weld on yoke the proper size and welded it on.Now all the u-joints are greaseable and the joints are replaceable never had any problems with any of them since doing the retrofit.Larry.

Attached Thumbnails

  • MF1655 pto shafts.jpg
  • MF1655 pto shafts.jpg

Edited by massey driver, April 12, 2010 - 02:42 PM.

  • LUKEW said thank you

#13 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 12, 2010 - 03:11 PM

Larry pretty much filled in the blanks. One thing I did different was buy a pto shaft off ebay from front pto jackshaft of another make mower...I believe it was a Bolens, but most are the same size spline. I took it & cut to proper length, then ground a groove for it to slide into the tractor pto to turn it into a male output. I ground a send groove for implement quick attach to lock into. This makes using the quick coupling shafts very easy. Much easier than the female on the tractor. In the pic, there are 2 rear grooves, but I use the 2nd one to right of my thumb to lock into the tractor's pto. The 1st one made the shaft stick out too far. The far right is the one the quick attach on implement driveshaft locks into.

DSC00099..jpg

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