Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

I need some tips on applying decals please


  • Please log in to reply
15 replies to this topic

#1 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted August 01, 2011 - 08:42 AM

Hi

I have a few decals to put on the fender deck for the 314. They are JD decals and the backing is in 2 pieces with the seam in the middle. The largest one is about 8 x 10 inches and got a bit wrinkled by the time it got to me. I want to get these on straight so if anyone could give me some tips I'd appreciate it.

Thanks
JDB

#2 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

Texas Deere and Horse

    RED Wild Hogs, Horses & Deeres

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1435
  • 14,464 Thanks
  • 15,392 posts
  • Location: East of San Antonio Texas

Posted August 01, 2011 - 08:52 AM

Brian, I use a hair drier to warm them up, with it lieing flat. They will usually flatten right out, and let them cool before you move them. If you get them real hot, they will stretch.

#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted August 01, 2011 - 09:50 AM

Thanks Brian for the tip on flattening the decal. I also need some help with the actual application. With the seam in the centre of the backing do you start by peeling off one side at the edge and applying it from that edge or do you start in the centre and remove the backing gradually as you go in either direction. The smaller ones should be easy but the large one has me thinking I should find the preferred method for doing it.

#4 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

Texas Deere and Horse

    RED Wild Hogs, Horses & Deeres

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1435
  • 14,464 Thanks
  • 15,392 posts
  • Location: East of San Antonio Texas

Posted August 01, 2011 - 10:33 AM

I usually do them from the middle out. It's just a trial and error thing, til you get comfortable with it.

#5 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

NUTNDUN

    Lost in Cyber Space

  • Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 3
  • 10,266 Thanks
  • 15,618 posts
  • Location: Pennsylvania

Posted August 01, 2011 - 10:42 AM

Depending on the decal you can use soapy water or windex and spray the area that you are going to apply the decal to so you can move it and align it. Once you have it aligned you can squeagie(sp?) the water/soap/windex out and then allow it to dry. It takes a while to dry this way, you can use a hair dryer or heat gun to help set the decal and dry.

#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted August 01, 2011 - 01:15 PM

Some good suggestions here. I think I'll start with the smaller ones to get a feel for it. The large one with the operating instructions is about 25$ so I don't want to make a mess of it.

#7 olcowhand OFFLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,653 Thanks
  • 29,841 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted August 01, 2011 - 02:53 PM

I take it these are decals with out application tape extending beyond the decal on the front....hence just the vinyl decal exposed on the front with paper backing?
If so, mask the entire front with masking tape(low tack painter's tape preferably) , overlapping the tape & go beyond all 4 edges at least an inch. You should be able to make out the decal through the tape to align. Leaving the backing paper on, align where the decal is to go, then on one side, rub down the masking tape to the surface. This will keep the decal's spot to be applied aligned. Then flip this all over toward the masking tape that is stuck down & take off the backing paper. You can then use a squeegee or a bondo spreader, starting at the taped down side & firmly rub down the decal to the far side. If done carefully, you can apply without any soapy fluid. But be warned, doing the dry way & wherever the decal sticks....it's there for good! With soapy water, you can move the decal if needed for several seconds. I prefer the dry method & work slowly & carefully.

Edited by olcowhand, August 01, 2011 - 07:17 PM.


#8 Gary400 OFFLINE  

Gary400

    JD,junkie

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2316
  • 225 Thanks
  • 768 posts
  • Location: North East Missouri

Posted August 01, 2011 - 04:20 PM

i used windex on the finder pan decal on my 400 and it worked ok . if i had not used it i may not have got it on .

#9 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted August 01, 2011 - 06:44 PM

I take it these are decals with out application tape extending beyond the decal on the front....hence just the vinyl decal exposed on the front with paper backing?
If so, mask the entire front with masking tape, overlapping the tape & go beyond all 4 edges at least an inch. You should be able to make out the decal through the tape to align. Leaving the backing paper on, align where the decal is to go, then on one side, rub down the masking tape to the surface. This will keep the decal's spot to be applied aligned. Then flip this all over toward the masking tape that is stuck down & take off the backing paper. You can then use a squeegee or a bondo spreader, starting at the taped down side & firmly rub down the decal to the far side. If done carefully, you can apply without any soapy fluid. But be warned, doing the dry way & wherever the decal sticks....it's there for good! With soapy water, you can move the decal if needed for several seconds. I prefer the dry method & work slowly & carefully.


Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I put on the 2 smaller ones without incident. I think I'll try Daniels suggestion for the large decal. It seems straight forward and should work fine for this rectangular decal. I'm sure using a liquid would work but I don't want to experiment with an expensive decal.

#10 olcowhand OFFLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,653 Thanks
  • 29,841 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted August 01, 2011 - 07:16 PM

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I put on the 2 smaller ones without incident. I think I'll try Daniels suggestion for the large decal. It seems straight forward and should work fine for this rectangular decal. I'm sure using a liquid would work but I don't want to experiment with an expensive decal.


Anytime you use anything other than your hand to rub down the decals, you need to either use masking tape (low tack painter's tape preferably), or decal application tape over the vinyl decal. It will prevent scuffing & help to hold the decal in place while squeegeeing out the soapy liquid.

#11 better before OFFLINE  

better before

    Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 5240
  • 2 Thanks
  • 13 posts
  • Location: Carver, Minnesota

Posted August 01, 2011 - 09:48 PM

I make construction signs for a living. We use vinyl to make all of our signs. Vinyl is what most decals are silk screened on to. As olcowhand said, mask the decal. Just set it in place. No pressure applied, if you don't like it take it back up and re-set it. When you are happy with the placement, press in the middle and work your way out with your fingers. Hit it with a roller of some sort before removing the masking tape. If you don't have a roller you can use the waxy side of the backing and rub it all over the decal. If you have air bubbles pop them with a sharp point and work the air to the puncture point. If you have a wrinkle or something hit it with the hair dryer.

#12 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted August 02, 2011 - 05:15 AM

Thanks for the input. It's good to know how to take care of bubbles and wrinkles. I'll tackle the big decal tonight and use the masking tape and take my time with it. This tractor is finally going back together after being in for refit since May.

#13 olcowhand OFFLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,653 Thanks
  • 29,841 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted August 02, 2011 - 09:35 AM

Tiny bubbles I don't worry with, as they will usually settle out on their own.

#14 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

NUTNDUN

    Lost in Cyber Space

  • Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 3
  • 10,266 Thanks
  • 15,618 posts
  • Location: Pennsylvania

Posted August 02, 2011 - 09:46 AM

If you do happen to get a bubble or two that refuses to go away after a couple of weeks you can always take a pin and poke a tiny hole in the center of the bubble and squeegee towards the hole to remove the bubble.

#15 Green216 OFFLINE  

Green216

    New Member

  • New Member
  • Member No: 4632
  • 0 Thanks
  • 8 posts
  • Location: Ashburn, VA

Posted August 05, 2011 - 09:29 PM

Windex is the way to go. I've done it many times without a problem. It gives you the flexibility to move it around, less chance of screwing up an expensive vinyl decal.




Top