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Got Another Project.....Like I Need Another....Jacobsen GT 12


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#16 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2011 - 06:45 PM

Got somewhat bored so I just went out to do a little diag of the electrical system which i dont know much about but know some things...anyways I used my jumper pack and connected it to the + and - cables. By the way I used the FordLGT 100 120 125 145 165 195 service manual( Page 57 ) for what I am going to try and explain I did....If someone can explain how this electrical system works or how it flows when the key is in run and start please let me know because I dont understand that.....anways the yellow wire is where the wire comes in from the battery after flowing from the solenoid/batt+ through the amp meter and to the key switch to what I believe is a "B" on the wiring diagram. I checked for voltage there and found the full amount of voltage. Now this is where I get confused.....am I correct to say that when I turn the key to start that I follow the "S" then which would be the white wire??? If so...I checked for voltage with the key in the start position and I get only .4-.7 volts which is not nearly enough, I then checked it with the key in the run position and the voltage stayed about the same....Now if this is all correct with what I said with the .4-.7 volts would you say the key switch is bad???? This is where Im at now so any help will be appreciated!!!


Forgot to say that I didnt see any seat switch or lights or hour meter if that helps any....

Edited by Nascar3244888, July 31, 2011 - 06:53 PM.


#17 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2011 - 04:14 AM

Brad, I have been unable to cross this to any Fords as yet, but has to be similar to one of them. Pic # 5 shows the back side of your dash and wiring. If this wiring is similar to Fords, the S (white wire) goes thru the PTO switch (and any other safety switches) to the solenoid. I found on mine that the side of the PTO switch with the white wires go thru wasn't making a connection with the PTO switch off, thus no start. Have you cleaned wiring connections yet? Some look to be rusty.
You might also try removing both white wires from the PTO switch, put a jumper in to test for power to the starter solenoid.
FordBrad2.jpg
Here I have shown which two wires I am talking about. You can, using voltage, test if you have 12 volts going into and out of these connections.
I hope this makes sense to you.

Yes, you could have a bad ignition switch if you are only getting low voltage once you turn to start and go back to run. But you may be losing connection due to corrosion also.

Edited by KennyP, August 01, 2011 - 04:22 AM.

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#18 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2011 - 10:43 AM

Thanks for that great info and i understand it totally, I will check this out today and get back to you...thanks again!!

#19 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2011 - 01:32 PM

Looks like a nice project. Corrosion can be a big problem in older switches. Myself, I prefer to troubleshoot using an ohmmeter with the circuit unpowered. This allows you to see the actual resistance of the switches without worrying about accidental starts or shorting something out. Just remove the + cable from the battery.
I recently repaired a PTO switch that had bad connections at the rivets that make the physical connection to the inside of the switch. If you look at the terminals on many of the older switches you will see that the terminals are riveted to the back panel of the switch. This can be a source of problems with corrosion but it can be cleaned and re soldered to repair it. This is easy to see if you use an ohmmeter to check for conductivity between these various parts.
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#20 Chuck_050382 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2011 - 02:40 PM

That would be comparable to a open side ford lgt 120.

#21 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2011 - 02:48 PM

I have just one thing to say.......................................IT RUNS ON STARTING FLUID!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! After tinkering with the old wiring and finding that the solenoid was bad....THANKS FOR THE HELP KENNYP!!!!....I checked for voltage at the "S" side again today and today I just kept working the key back and forth between run and start....I went from getting about .5 volts to 12.69!!!! I really have no idea why all of the sudden it did this.....but anyways, I then check the old solenoid where the white wire goes after going through all safety's and Ill be damn it had 12.69 volts but I wasnt getting anything to the starter wire...So I had an extra solenoid from my old LITTLE RED DEVIL ( in case you guys dont remember this it was my little red Huskee tractor that had the kohler engine swap with no exhaust and black painted wheels and the one I flipped in the winter time) I hooked it up and now I was getting voltage but the solenoid was clicking fast almost like not enough voltage, so after trying different things i finally just loosened the starter wire slightly....and all of the sudden it started turning over with the key!!! Then after removing the points cover and cleaning them some....I had spark....then I sprayed some starting fluid in and she fired right up!!!! Still need to either clean or rebuild the carb but hopefully that will go smooth....oh I forgot to mention that when It started you guys should have seen all the big chunks of rust falling from the tractor underneath LOL!!!!! Thanks Again for everybodies help and I will keep you guys updated!!

#22 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2011 - 05:41 PM

Chuck, thanks. I knew it had to cross somewhere. Just wasn't sure where.
Brad, CONGRATS. Glad you got it to fire off. You will need to clean a lot of wiring connections, yet. Sounds like the ign. switch was corroded inside.
Brian, I may ship you my old PTO switch yet. I am not that good with small electrical thingys.

#23 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2011 - 04:13 AM

I was able to clean the ign switch good, and i also cleaned the batt + cable from the batt itself and also the one going to the starter, I also made a new connection for the white wire at the solenoid. I can tell you that all of the safetys do work. Also I tried to see if the electric pto would make a clunk noise when engauged but it didnt, so thats just another thing to check. still need to either clean the carb or rebuild it. By the way before we got some bad storms yesterday, I would spray the starting fluid in and when it would fire I left the clutch out while in gear...and it would move too!!!

#24 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2011 - 04:30 AM

Brad, sound like you have it going your way now. Good luck with it. Have you tried the PTO with a direct wire from the battery. Still could be bad connections around. Anyway, have a great day!

#25 hobbytrading75 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2015 - 01:36 PM

Good luck with the restoration,

I just finished one same project , you will enjoy the final result as I did.

 

 

Attila

 

ps. all the infos You can find here on this forum by tractor manuals.






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