
I'm new here, and I got questions.
#1
OFFLINE
Posted July 28, 2011 - 02:31 PM
Second question is: How do I go about pulling the bushing? Do I have to remove motor and tear the rear cover off? Can I use a bushing puller?
My neighbor has a bunch of Bolens stuff that she inherited with the place when her Dad died and she has two TRA's in the back. One has the cover off and I saw what I am up against so far, but didn't get a good enough look to figure out how to go about it. I'm half tempted to make and offer on the two engines for parts.
I'd rather not pull the motor and tear into it and I hope someone can come along and give me some good news on it! If not I'll pull it.
Thanks in advance, JJuday
#2
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Posted July 28, 2011 - 03:34 PM

#3
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Posted July 28, 2011 - 04:31 PM
#4
ONLINE
Posted July 28, 2011 - 04:36 PM
I believe this was a common problem with these wisconsins.
I think member Bruce Dorsi will have some better insight on this issue, as I believe he described this problem in another thread, but I could not locate it.
If you do indeed need to get parts, I would go with the Original wisconsin parts, from past experiences I have learned that cheaper is not always better.
If you have any pictures of your Bolens we would love to see them!
#5
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Posted July 28, 2011 - 06:44 PM
Welcome to GTT!
I believe this was a common problem with these wisconsins.
I think member Bruce Dorsi will have some better insight on this issue, as I believe he described this problem in another thread, but I could not locate it.
If you do indeed need to get parts, I would go with the Original wisconsin parts, from past experiences I have learned that cheaper is not always better.
If you have any pictures of your Bolens we would love to see them!
Yeah, it sounds like it could be a common problem. I was just thinking that the problem may well be with the bushing and not the pin. Typically bushing are made of softer material than what is going through it, but for six and change I guess I might as well replace the pin too. I guess the struck end of the pin that rides on the cam could be worn too and a new one might be money well spent.
I will post pictures. As of tomorrow I will be getting a 1254 from a guy in town and not a day sooner as he said it was bound for the scrap yard tomorrow after he got home from work!
Someone rigged an Onan 16hp. opposed twin on it and I really don't care much for the Onans. Luckily he said he wanted to keep the motor and said 50$ would buy the rest. Can't beat that. No hood, but it's got a lot of good parts on board and is really clean otherwise. My 1054 was missing the little guard that sits under the PTO belts and I called Sams Bolens and he wanted 55$ just for that! No attachments with this tractor.
Thanks for the replys so far, keep them coming. JJuday
#6
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Posted July 28, 2011 - 07:00 PM
Sams Bolens is usually the most expensive to buy things from. Was $55 for a New or used one?
#7
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Posted July 28, 2011 - 07:24 PM
#8
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Posted July 28, 2011 - 09:18 PM

#9
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Posted July 29, 2011 - 12:13 AM
If the new pin does not stop the oil leak, then you know the bushing must be worn, and replacement will be necessary.
I have never had to replace a bushing, but it may be possible to thread it with a 5/16" tap and pull it from the outside. (If you try this, coat the tap with grease to hopefully capture the metal chips to them from entering the crankcase.) ......Once the new bushing is installed, it must be reamed to .2785"-.2790" I.D.
If you have a micrometer, it would be interesting to see what the diameter of the new pin measures.
- Bolens 1000, MH81 and Ranchkingron have said thanks
#10
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Posted July 29, 2011 - 12:47 AM
#11
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Posted July 29, 2011 - 04:31 AM

Glad to have you with us.
#12
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Posted July 29, 2011 - 06:06 AM
#13
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Posted July 29, 2011 - 10:15 AM
#14
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Posted July 29, 2011 - 10:21 AM
To start, I would suggest changing just the pin as I have seen them cause too much oil to get into the breaker box. .....If memory serves me, the original pin was aluminum, and should wear before the bushing. ......However, the part number has been changed several times and the number you posted for the pin is correct. ....I have no idea if there were changes made to the pin.
If the new pin does not stop the oil leak, then you know the bushing must be worn, and replacement will be necessary.
I have never had to replace a bushing, but it may be possible to thread it with a 5/16" tap and pull it from the outside. (If you try this, coat the tap with grease to hopefully capture the metal chips to them from entering the crankcase.) ......Once the new bushing is installed, it must be reamed to .2785"-.2790" I.D.
If you have a micrometer, it would be interesting to see what the diameter of the new pin measures.
Thanks for the info Bruce. I'll order that pin today and give that a try. I had no idea the pin was aluminum, seems a little odd using aluminum considering it has to ride the cam lobe. If so, it might be an easy fix.
Gotta get around soon, that guy is bringing that 1254 carcass at noon. Think I'll take the lazy way out and unload it with the payloader. JJuday
#15
ONLINE
Posted July 29, 2011 - 11:55 AM
It made it leak and blow oil into the tube that goes to the air filter tube.
Stupid little thing is a pain in the butt to get the tiny screw back in I'll tell ya.:bash::rofl2::laughingteeth:
