18 replies to this topic

[JJuday]

Hello. Looks to be a great site here. I recently bought a Bolens 1054 and it runs great, but leaks oil out the breaker cover. The engine is a Wisconsin TRA10-D. Narrowed the problem down to either the push pin part# PA-428-L-S1 or the bushing itself, part# PF-157. Called Sonny's Farm Supply and got prices: push pin was 6.72$ and two prices on the bushings: 15.64 and 40.72. The 15$ bushing has a suffix of AS-1 and the 40$ bushing is the direct part# that corresponds to what the manual calls for. What one should I get? If I order the 15$ one and it's wrong I can't return it.

Second question is: How do I go about pulling the bushing? Do I have to remove motor and tear the rear cover off? Can I use a bushing puller?

My neighbor has a bunch of Bolens stuff that she inherited with the place when her Dad died and she has two TRA's in the back. One has the cover off and I saw what I am up against so far, but didn't get a good enough look to figure out how to go about it. I'm half tempted to make and offer on the two engines for parts.

I'd rather not pull the motor and tear into it and I hope someone can come along and give me some good news on it! If not I'll pull it.

Thanks in advance, JJuday

[caseguy]

JJuday Welcome to Gttalk! It's great to have you here with us! I'm not a Bolens guy so I can't answer the question directly, but I'd guess that the number with the suffix is a newer (cheaper construction) "replacement" bushing and the other is an OEM material one. It's been my experience that I rarely re-use bushings when I have them out...just never seems to work out for me. I would feel the same about a used one from another engine. This is just my opinion and I'm not sure even exactly what this bushing does so...Maybe some of the Bolens guys will chime in soon with a different opinion.

[NUTNDUN]

Welcome to GTtalk. I can't help with pulling the bushing either but we have a lot of experienced Bolens guys that should be able to help.

[Bolens 1000]

Welcome to GTT!

I believe this was a common problem with these wisconsins.
I think member Bruce Dorsi will have some better insight on this issue, as I believe he described this problem in another thread, but I could not locate it.
If you do indeed need to get parts, I would go with the Original wisconsin parts, from past experiences I have learned that cheaper is not always better.

If you have any pictures of your Bolens we would love to see them!

[JJuday]

Welcome to GTT!

I believe this was a common problem with these wisconsins.
I think member Bruce Dorsi will have some better insight on this issue, as I believe he described this problem in another thread, but I could not locate it.
If you do indeed need to get parts, I would go with the Original wisconsin parts, from past experiences I have learned that cheaper is not always better.

If you have any pictures of your Bolens we would love to see them!

Yeah, it sounds like it could be a common problem. I was just thinking that the problem may well be with the bushing and not the pin. Typically bushing are made of softer material than what is going through it, but for six and change I guess I might as well replace the pin too. I guess the struck end of the pin that rides on the cam could be worn too and a new one might be money well spent.

I will post pictures. As of tomorrow I will be getting a 1254 from a guy in town and not a day sooner as he said it was bound for the scrap yard tomorrow after he got home from work!
Someone rigged an Onan 16hp. opposed twin on it and I really don't care much for the Onans. Luckily he said he wanted to keep the motor and said 50$ would buy the rest. Can't beat that. No hood, but it's got a lot of good parts on board and is really clean otherwise. My 1054 was missing the little guard that sits under the PTO belts and I called Sams Bolens and he wanted 55$ just for that! No attachments with this tractor.

Thanks for the replys so far, keep them coming. JJuday

[Bolens 1000]

Glad to hear another Bolens was saved from the scrap yard.
Sams Bolens is usually the most expensive to buy things from. Was $55 for a New or used one?

[dstaggs]

Welcome to GTtalk. Sounds like you on the right track on saving GTs from scrap yard.

[MH81]

to GTTalk, Any idea what the ID and OD are? You may want to stop at a bearing supply house & see if they can match it.

[Bruce Dorsi]

To start, I would suggest changing just the pin as I have seen them cause too much oil to get into the breaker box. .....If memory serves me, the original pin was aluminum, and should wear before the bushing. ......However, the part number has been changed several times and the number you posted for the pin is correct. ....I have no idea if there were changes made to the pin.

If the new pin does not stop the oil leak, then you know the bushing must be worn, and replacement will be necessary.

I have never had to replace a bushing, but it may be possible to thread it with a 5/16" tap and pull it from the outside. (If you try this, coat the tap with grease to hopefully capture the metal chips to them from entering the crankcase.) ......Once the new bushing is installed, it must be reamed to .2785"-.2790" I.D.

If you have a micrometer, it would be interesting to see what the diameter of the new pin measures.

[speedyg]

welcome jjuday!!!!! :)

[mjodrey]

JJuday,

Glad to have you with us.

[KennyP]

Welcome to GT Talk. Sounds like you are getting some good info on your issue. Hope you get it resolved. If I had a thought the bushing was worn, I would replace both parts and at least know that was resolved. Doesn't sound like a lot of money is involved.

[JJuday]

That price was for a farm fresh take off belt guard.

[JJuday]

To start, I would suggest changing just the pin as I have seen them cause too much oil to get into the breaker box. .....If memory serves me, the original pin was aluminum, and should wear before the bushing. ......However, the part number has been changed several times and the number you posted for the pin is correct. ....I have no idea if there were changes made to the pin.

If the new pin does not stop the oil leak, then you know the bushing must be worn, and replacement will be necessary.

I have never had to replace a bushing, but it may be possible to thread it with a 5/16" tap and pull it from the outside. (If you try this, coat the tap with grease to hopefully capture the metal chips to them from entering the crankcase.) ......Once the new bushing is installed, it must be reamed to .2785"-.2790" I.D.

If you have a micrometer, it would be interesting to see what the diameter of the new pin measures.

Thanks for the info Bruce. I'll order that pin today and give that a try. I had no idea the pin was aluminum, seems a little odd using aluminum considering it has to ride the cam lobe. If so, it might be an easy fix.
Gotta get around soon, that guy is bringing that 1254 carcass at noon. Think I'll take the lazy way out and unload it with the payloader. JJuday

[EricFromPa]

I had troubles with the breather assembly in my TRA10-D.The little flapper or PCV valve screw came out and fell down the hole.

It made it leak and blow oil into the tube that goes to the air filter tube.

Stupid little thing is a pain in the butt to get the tiny screw back in I'll tell ya.:bash::rofl2::laughingteeth: