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Let There Be.. Electrolsys


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#16 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2011 - 02:48 PM

You may be correct there, Larry. But it's working up a storm.
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The last pic is of the mate to this wheel that I did by hand (wire wheel). This was much simpler. Here's a pic before the bath.
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#17 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2011 - 02:50 PM

Here's a couple of the thermometers when I came in at 1:30 this afternoon. The first is under the lean-to where I do most of my work. Second is in the house but is wireless to the front porch thermometer. Toasty enough for me.
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I through out there for the day.

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#18 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2011 - 03:30 PM

Kenny it looks like you're cooking real good! Seriously though the heat seems to speed up the reaction a bit. I wish I had known about this in 2009 when I was rebuilding the MF 8. It would have saved me hours of sanding, grinding etc and no dust to worry about with this setup. I am using a separate power supply on mine. I find I can run it at 16volts without the rectifier overheating. I am going to install it all in an aluminium case with a fan and then I hope to be able to go to 20volts to speed things up a bit. Some kind of floating anode that you can attach with insulators to help get into folded parts is something else I am trying to figure out.
Keep your eyes peeled for one of those plastic 50gallon drums. They use them in factories and bakeries and such. Got mine from a bakery. 15$ each.

#19 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2011 - 03:41 PM

Thanks, Brian. Doing pretty good for detergent (which is in small letters on top of the box). Must have a lot of the good stuff in it. I'll have to look around for the right product.
I have thought about one of the drums, there are a few people selling them around here. If this had stiffer side walls, it would be pretty good for most things I plan to do.

#20 Spartan OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2011 - 04:24 PM

I use a rubber maid 100 gallon stock tank. I only use the 6 volt option on my charger since it is a smart charger in 12 volts. I have no problem sticking several pieces in at a time and in one day or less I can clean them well enough for a few scrubs with a scraper and brush. Then I rinse with degreaser and surface cleaner and they are ready to paint. Sometimes after cleaning I spray them with phosphoric acid and wait till I have more to paint in one sitting. What I am saying is it really works even at low voltage.
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#21 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2011 - 06:50 AM

Had parts cooking. Coming out pretty good, considering the "laundry detergent" I used. Did dump in a small box of baking soda. Didn't seem to hurt things. I have realized I need to make sure the wires I hang them with are making a good connection to the part. I am using 'coated wire clothes hangers'. I need to remove some of the coating and clean the holes I wrap the wires through. I'm happy with the results I'm getting so far.

#22 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2011 - 05:54 AM

I had to empty out the E-tank due to the 'tractor' port build. Got a couple pics of the 'anodes'. They don't look too bad as yet. It sure does a good job on the rusty parts. Here you go:
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#23 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2011 - 06:29 AM

Kenny, how many hours of run time for the electrodes to get caked like that?

#24 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2011 - 07:12 AM

Will, it's probably more like days. I haven't kept track, but I would say I have had it going 10-14 days total. I usually leave parts in for at least 24 hours each batch.

Also, these have been sitting in the tank since the end of July when I build it. Could be some build up from that.

Edited by KennyP, September 28, 2011 - 07:20 AM.
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#25 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2011 - 07:58 AM

I found, that the cleaner the electrodes, the faster it worked.
Messy job, keeping them clean, but really cuts down cooking time.




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