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1975 mf16


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#31 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 20, 2011 - 09:29 PM

Just teasing ya, that's all.


Yes, I know, but none the less, I just tied our pet bear up to it. LOL

#32 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2011 - 07:02 PM

Did you get that package Doug?
Not sure if that carb will be any good for you.

#33 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2011 - 07:22 PM

Did you get that package Doug?
Not sure if that carb will be any good for you.


The mail where I am is slow, probably won't get it till late next week or the following.
Remember I got 4 green tractors all with Kohler 16hp in them, plus the MF16.

#34 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2011 - 07:35 PM

The mail where I am is slow, probably won't get it till late next week or the following.
Remember I got 4 green tractors all with Kohler 16hp in them, plus the MF16.


Your mail still slow too?
Ours too.
I guess that's called work to rule, since they got ordered back to work.
I wish we had someone in Ottawa, that would have done what Reagan did with the air traffic controlers.
Fire them all, and get the military to deliver the mail.

#35 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2012 - 02:22 PM

TEAR-DOWN
Today I started on the MF16, removed all the sheet metal and took a good look at everything.
MF16 005.JPG MF16 008.JPG
MF16 009.JPG MF16 011.JPG

Exhaust since I got this thing the exhaust has been N/G, the elbow that comes out of the block is broken.
MF16 001.JPG

So today I tried to figure out what to do, first I thought of welding it back together but I knew that without removing it I wouldn't be able to do it good enough where it is. I put the engine a TDC on compresion stroke so that the valves would be closed.
I then decided to remove it, put a pipe wrench on it and it wouldn't budge. I put a length of pipe on and tried again, the fitting broke, it broke easy without too much force applied.
I then took small sledge hammer and a big chisel, 1 solid hit and the fitting broke even more, I knew then that the cast iron block is a lot stronger than the fitting. So I carefully kept chiseling away at it, switched to a smaller chisel, until it was all out. Every hit I thinking is the block going to break this time. But I got lucky today and no damage to the block or threads.
MF16 002.JPG MF16 003.JPG

This is the muffler and the piece of fitting that was in it.
MF16 001.JPG

The end result, I can now put in a nipple, a 45deg and a short piece of pipe and that should be good enough to attach a muffler to. I got lucky today on this.
MF16 004.JPG

#36 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2012 - 06:59 PM

Problems
1 - 0ne fan blade broken for the Hydro unit.
MF16 006.JPG

2 - Electric clutch has a double pulley on it and the larger one seems smaller than the single one on my MF14.
MF16 011.JPG

3 - The "Guide, shift lever brake" as it's called on the AGCO parts book is worn, I notice when using it it doesn't hold it position and when you move the Hydro lever to about 1/2 speed it just moves on its own to full speed. The further or faster you move the lever the less it holds.
MF16 007.JPG

4 - Motor mounts don't look to good, 1 rear and 1 front really don't look good at all, plus I can move the motor up and down by hand quit easily.

So anybody know where the best place to get a fan, the "guide shift lever brake" for the Hydro lever, and some motor mounts?
What to do about the clutch pulleys, leave them or ???

#37 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2012 - 07:15 PM

Today all I did to it was to try to clean all the oil grease and dirt off of it. I use a pressure washer hooked up to the hot water and a rotating nozzle on it. Did not to bad of a job, probably would of been easier, better if I sprayed the tractor down with some degreaser first. A lot comes off easy but some of it is really stubborn. I find the hot water works good, would love to have a steam cleaner.

#38 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2012 - 07:38 PM

Doug, I hear what you say about a steam cleaner. Wish I had one right about now!

#39 ncb OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2012 - 07:38 PM

Problems


3 - The "Guide, shift lever brake" as it's called on the AGCO parts book is worn, I notice when using it it doesn't hold it position and when you move the Hydro lever to about 1/2 speed it just moves on its own to full speed. The further or faster you move the lever the less it holds.
MF16 007.JPG


check the hydro lever where it gets squeezed in between the brake, mine is worn about 1/3 through the round rod and is likely why mine ramps forward on its own,just like yours.i am going to take out the rod and weld the worn groove in and grind it back to original proportions. Im betting yours is the same ,if so,changing the shift brake assembly alone wont help. take a closer look and confirm before spending money or time,its easily seen externally .
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#40 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2012 - 07:43 PM

check the hydro lever where it gets squeezed in between the brake, mine is worn about 1/3 through the round rod and is likely why mine ramps forward on its own,just like yours.i am going to take out the rod and weld the worn groove in and grind it back to original proportions. Im betting yours is the same ,if so,changing the shift brake assembly alone wont help. take a closer look and confirm before spending money or time,its easily seen externally .


Thanks I haven't taken it apart yet but when I do I'll look for wear on the lever, it makes sense what you say and maybe that's all that's wrong with mine. If so like you say build up the lever with weld, grind smooth and it should be fixed.

Edited by DH1, March 30, 2012 - 07:44 PM.


#41 ncb OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2012 - 07:58 PM

Thanks I haven't taken it apart yet but when I do I'll look for wear on the lever, it makes sense what you say and maybe that's all that's wrong with mine. If so like you say build up the lever with weld, grind smooth and it should be fixed.

I wish i had fixed mine so i could say for sure but if you look how its designed it spring tensions at the back side for reverse but at the opposite side if the rod is worn down its just too skinny to grip.

#42 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2012 - 08:00 PM

I wish i had fixed mine so i could say for sure but if you look how its designed it spring tensions at the back side for reverse but at the opposite side if the rod is worn down its just too skinny to grip.


Your right, because that's exactly whats wrong with mine.

#43 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2012 - 04:01 PM

This afternoon I was working on the MF16 again, removed the Hydro lever brake and checked for wear, sure enough there is some. Picture of the brake itself.
003.JPG

And a couple of the lever where it rubs on the brake.
001.JPG 002.JPG
I'll have to see what I can do to tighten this up a bit.

I salvaged 3 motor mounts off of a JD300 parts tractor, 2 fronts and 1 rear, these look the same as the mounts on the MF16. I need only 1 front and 1 rear to get 4 good rubber motor mounts for the MF16. Oil is draining out of the motor now going to see if I can pull it out after supper.
004.JPG


Also today I mounted my 3 point that I got a while ago, it is not an original but a modified 3 point off of a different model of Massey GT. A steel box was made to move the assembly back more to clear the seat pan tin. It's heavy and adds a fair amount of weight to the tractor, there is a lid that can be opened up for a small toolbox. The lift cylinder mounts in there also. I'm not sure if the cylinder is good or Strong enough as it only has about a 2" stroke, it is the mower deck lift off of a JD300.
005.JPG 006.JPG 007.JPG

#44 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2012 - 05:54 PM

Doug, The 3pt. looks great, I think you will be OK with the JD cylinder.

#45 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2012 - 07:02 PM

Thanks Brian it was more of a test fit to try to figure out how it all goes together.
You can probably recognize Wills (IamShewood) work we traded parts and I got the 3 point out of it.

I got the motor pulled, removed the 2 bad rubber mounts set the good used mounts in place, looks like they'll work.
Then removed the front axle and steering arm the goes through the frame, this is where most of the play in the steering linkage is. Pounded the 2 bushings out the the arm rides in, there is a grease fitting there. Hopefully I can get some new bushings and tighten up the slack in the joint. Picture of the arm and bushings, what is the proper name for this part?
008.JPG

One part that I would like to get is this fan, it goes on the drive shaft to cool the Hydro unit. Tractor will work without it but it would be nice to have one with all the blades on it. Besides to change it you have to pull the motor to get the drive shaft out.
Anybody got one?
009.JPG 010.JPG
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