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Wards 16H wont start need HELP Please!!!


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#1 Wards 16H OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 02:08 PM

I have a 74 Ward/Gilson 16H hydrostatic with a Briggs And Stratton 16HP single cylinder. My grandfather bought this tractor brand new and has been in the family ever since with out any engine trouble until now. However I cannot get this thing to start. I suspect it may be the spark plug but I cannot locate the proper plug number for this engine. If anyone has this info or any ideas with my problem let me know.

Thanks
Travis

#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 02:56 PM

First off, :welcome: to GTTalk.

Secondly, are you getting any spark? That needs to be the first step towards diagnosis. If you don't have a spark checker, there are many different kinds that everyone from car parts stores to Harbor Freight carry, and they will help you and us a lot.

If the purchase of a tester is out, you can use almost any spark plug. You will not install the plug during this test. Using a jumper cable, ground the base of the plug, attach the coil lead and turn the engine over. You should see a strong, blue spark. If not, observe and report your finding here. this could be a plug, switch, points, ignition module, magneto, etc. Also helpful would be a model number from the engine shroud.

Good luck! - Alan
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#3 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 05:31 PM

H16 had 16hp B&S Model 326437 Type 0135-01

It has Points and Condenser,I would start by replacing the Condenser and cleaning and re-gap the points.
Especially if it has sat for any length of time.

Another thing to check would be the headlight switch.They had a goofy 3 position toggle switch.If it's in the Auxiliary position (or down) the tractor will not start.Also if you flip that switch down while running it will ground the points out and shut the tractor off.

It took me a while to that one figure out myself.I've had 4 of these beastly machines.

Also make sure your battery is fully charged.That model cast iron Briggs doesn't have an automatic compression release.

Edited by EricFromPa, July 12, 2011 - 05:42 PM.

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#4 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 06:36 PM

:wave: Wards 16H Welcome to GTTalk! It's great to have you with us! Sounds like you're getting the help that you need. Keep us posted on your progress!

#5 Wards 16H OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 09:06 PM

My Ward has a simple push/pull headlamp switch so that is out. Would you happen to know what the model number is on the motor? Mine has been painted several times and I cannot locate a id plate. Thanks for the tips.

#6 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 09:08 PM

Welcome to GTtalk Travis , keep trying what the guys are telling you and you'll soon have it running , Al

#7 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 09:16 PM

....Would you happen to know what the model number is on the motor?


Member Eric from PA posted what the engine should have been when new.

H16 had 16hp B&S Model 326437 Type 0135-01...


He also had some suggestions for your troubleshooting...

...It has Points and Condenser,I would start by replacing the Condenser and cleaning and re-gap the points.
Especially if it has sat for any length of time.

Another thing to check would be the headlight switch.They had a goofy 3 position toggle switch.If it's in the Auxiliary position (or down) the tractor will not start.Also if you flip that switch down while running it will ground the points out and shut the tractor off.

It took me a while to that one figure out myself.I've had 4 of these beastly machines.

Also make sure your battery is fully charged.That model cast iron Briggs doesn't have an automatic compression release.


Mine has been painted several times and I cannot locate a id plate. Thanks for the tips.


The ID plate should be on the side of the flywheel shroud. Even if it's been painted over, it should be evident because it will be mounted to the shroud with a couple of rivets.
Hope that all of this helps!

#8 Wards 16H OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 09:17 PM

First off, :welcome: to GTTalk.

Secondly, are you getting any spark? That needs to be the first step towards diagnosis. If you don't have a spark checker, there are many different kinds that everyone from car parts stores to Harbor Freight carry, and they will help you and us a lot.

If the purchase of a tester is out, you can use almost any spark plug. You will not install the plug during this test. Using a jumper cable, ground the base of the plug, attach the coil lead and turn the engine over. You should see a strong, blue spark. If not, observe and report your finding here. this could be a plug, switch, points, ignition module, magneto, etc. Also helpful would be a model number from the engine shroud.

Good luck! - Alan



I found out by accident that I am getting juice to the plug at least intermittently I was holding the plug to the block with a pair of pliers and my hand slipped, I got whacked pretty good. I am starting with the simple items, I already checked out all of the external wiring from the switches to the engine, all good there, I figured I would try a new plug but dont know what number it takes. I was planning on getting a spark tester tomorrow, I will post back with those results.

#9 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 09:41 PM

Wards 16H, Welcome to GT talk, glad you joined us. If you are getting spark, sounds like you are. I would pour a bottle cap full of gas in the spark plug hole and crank it over to see if it will fire. If it hits on that little amount of gas, I would clean the carb. and make sure you are getting gas to the carb. Just a thought, and I hope this Helps
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#10 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 09:53 PM

Make sure the spark is steady, then use the gas in the hole or some flamable carb cleaner in the air intake. and give it a whirl.

If you have to pull the tin on the engine, I would check for rust & proper gap on the flywheel to Magneto. If it's been a long time since it has been cleaned out, may want to at least blow some air thru the tin... Briggs seems to be the favorite engine brand to build nests in & cause problems.
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#11 Wards 16H OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 11:00 PM

Make sure the spark is steady, then use the gas in the hole or some flamable carb cleaner in the air intake. and give it a whirl.

If you have to pull the tin on the engine, I would check for rust & proper gap on the flywheel to Magneto. If it's been a long time since it has been cleaned out, may want to at least blow some air thru the tin... Briggs seems to be the favorite engine brand to build nests in & cause problems.


It has been sitting for 1 year since the initial problems started. I used it all summer and parked it in the shed for the winter, when I got it out in the spring it started but ran rough. About a week after that I went to use it and got 1 backfire and that was it. The fuel is getting in the cylinder the plug is wet, actually I have had issues with the battery choking the fuel line so that was the first place I looked.

I used to have 2 GTs, the other was an 1985 Ariens GT18 with a K361 18hp Kohler OHV. That one shattered a piston and destroyed the block so the Ward is all I have left other than my LT(which only cuts grass). This Ward has sentimental value to me I just want to get it running, plus I can't till my garden untill I figure this out. I appreciate all the help and tips I am getting from everyone here.

#12 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2011 - 01:00 AM

If the Condenser is bad it will still shock your pants off if you grab the wire.It just won't produce enough current to spark the Plug.

My last 16 B&S single I replaced Ignition coil on the flywheel with an Electronic ignition coil off of a newer 15.5 hp Briggs OHV engine I had on the scrap pile.It worked Wonderfully.

You have to pull the engine to get the blower housing off for that.Let me tell ya it's one HEAVY engine.If you don't have a strong back don't attempt to remove the engine.And forget about trying to take the oil pan out with the engine.The tractors Front Pinion Pin for the front axle is attached to it.And they don't like to come out.Just remove the 4 bolts from the pan and split it at the pan.And remove the 2 bolts in the front drive-shaft coupler,throttle and choke cables and disconnect the PTO leaver and rip it out.:bounce:

I wouldn't have tore it apart but my coil wire was chewed off by a critter and the blower housing had alot of little buzzing critters built up in it.

Edited by EricFromPa, July 13, 2011 - 01:08 AM.


#13 maddhorse OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2011 - 05:51 AM

I had serious fustrations trying to fire up my Grandfathers JD. I replaced batery then points, condensor, plug wire, coil, air filter cleaned the carb, checked fuel pump and had the magic three, Fuel, Fire, Air. It still did not start. I was crushed as I am as a rule very good with making 1.00 out of .50 so to speak. The last thing I did before I turned the key one last time was look up to the sky and ask my grandfather "what the crap? How about a little help." I turned the key she started and I have been fine tuning her since but I have to say thanks Grandpa. I dont know if this applies in your situation but it worked for me.




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