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Looking for painting advice for 314 fender deck


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#1 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 10:24 AM

Hi folks

I have removed almost all the paint on the fender deck. The PO did a quick paint job and when I began to sand the rough spots the paint seemed gummy like it hadn't hardened properly. There were also brush marks in the finish. I removed all the green to find 2 coats of primer over top of the original green. The bottom grey primer had been brushed on followed by a sprayed coat of red oxide. He also must have used a grinding wheel and left a lot of circular marks. I found a lot of rust so I just kept sanding until I have removed all the new paint and 90% of the original green.
I can fill the few minor dings and larger marks with bondo and sand it but what then? By the way this is going to be a rattle can finish with Tremclad JD Green which actually seems to go on smooth and builds nicely. I used it on the console.
I have a can of primer/filler. Is this stuff worth using? Will this Primer /Filler be able to flatten out the little inperfections caused by surface rust and other hard to remove minor scratches or should I just stick with a sandable primer. I have never used filler/primer before so would value any opinions. I am trying to save some work. As you can imagine it took a long time to get all the paint off.

#2 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 10:34 AM

Filler primer is good stuff for filling scratches and minor imperfections,it won't fill dents. A couple or so coats,block sanding between each,will give you a good finish.You may want to top coat that with a different primer or sealer before putting the color on.

#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 06:30 PM

Thanks Maynard. That is what I was looking for. The fender deck on these 300 series tractors is stamped, has a lot of curved surfaces and is difficult to sand.

#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2011 - 10:15 AM

I finally got the primer on yesterday. It works as advertised filling in small imperfections and scratches. I now have to touch up a couple of spots and will add a coat of sandable primer over it before getting out the JD green.

#5 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2011 - 11:11 AM

That's great Brian,make sue to post some pictures.

#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2011 - 05:55 PM

My biggest problem is getting the time and weather conditions to do a good job on this. Hopefully later in the week I'll be able to get it ready to do the Green paint on the weekend. I know that temperature and humidity have to be right or it won't dry properly. I just have to be patient. For now I have it covered to keep the dust off.
One question. I used Acetone to clean before I sprayed the primer. Cleaned it twice, once with a cotton rag and a second time with a micro fibre cloth. I find a good micro fibre cloth is better than a tack cloth when finishing wood working projects so I tried it here and it worked well. Is it OK to use acetone on the primed surface or should I use something milder.

#7 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2011 - 06:02 PM

I have used acetone and denatured alcohol.

#8 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2011 - 06:10 PM

My biggest problem is getting the time and weather conditions to do a good job on this. Hopefully later in the week I'll be able to get it ready to do the Green paint on the weekend. I know that temperature and humidity have to be right or it won't dry properly. I just have to be patient. For now I have it covered to keep the dust off.
One question. I used Acetone to clean before I sprayed the primer. Cleaned it twice, once with a cotton rag and a second time with a micro fibre cloth. I find a good micro fibre cloth is better than a tack cloth when finishing wood working projects so I tried it here and it worked well. Is it OK to use acetone on the primed surface or should I use something milder.



I would go to some place like NAPA for instance,and pick up some pre-cleaner.

#9 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2011 - 06:16 PM

I would go to some place like NAPA for instance,and pick up some pre-cleaner.


Thanks Maynard. I'll try to do that tomorrow. I have been wanting to check out the NAPA stores to see what they carry for tools and such.

#10 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2011 - 06:25 PM

If you go there,tell them what you are looking for,and what you want to use it for.I find the guys here at "my" NAPA very helpful, of course I have an account with them,and they deliver right to my door ,which makes it nice.

#11 Gary400 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2011 - 07:20 PM

:wewantpics::wewantpics::wewantpics:

#12 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2011 - 05:23 AM

:wewantpics::wewantpics::wewantpics:


Alright!! I'll try to get some for you tonight. I have some close ups of the original paint job just for a laugh. I didn't take any right before I primed but I think I have some with most of the paint removed. A lot of small dings and surface rust. I know I won't get a mirror finish from a rattle can but I wanted to do the prep work to make sure the rust was stopped. This will be a working tractor.

#13 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2011 - 05:51 AM

Wasn't there a product that after the part was primed would fill in any scratches still there , it came in a tube, like toothpaste I'm thinking it we called "nitro-stain " You would use a squeegee over the scratches then block sand it when dry . Might be dating my self here , Al

#14 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2011 - 05:51 AM

JD, I have been using the Rustoleum Rust Reformer under everything. None of it has been on long enough to see if it really works, but thought I would do some thing to slow the process. I did spray the hood on my Cub with it early this spring and no new rust has appeared. Have to finish that one of these days. Going to get a small electrolysis tank going soon.

P.S. If you give this a try, make sure it is compatible with the brand of paint you are using on some scrap. Wouldn't want to mess up a paint job.

Edited by KennyP, July 19, 2011 - 05:53 AM.
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#15 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2011 - 06:01 AM

Wasn't there a product that after the part was primed would fill in any scratches still there , it came in a tube, like toothpaste I'm thinking it we called "nitro-stain " You would use a squeegee over the scratches then block sand it when dry . Might be dating my self here , Al



I assume you are talking about spot putty,yes that is still available, but that old stuff shrinks. When I need "spot putty" now a days,I use polyester putty and a hardener,no more shrinking or cracking.Of course the key to spot putty of any kind is not to put it on too thick,because that is not what it is for.
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