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#1 dstaggs OFFLINE  

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Posted July 11, 2011 - 09:16 PM

Today was the day. Today i tore down the K321 that i had picked up, non running engine. The rod bolts had backed out and was what was making the knock i heard when trying to start. Looks like I need a rod .010 everything else looks good after it was cleaned up. Sorry no Pics.

#2 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted July 11, 2011 - 09:37 PM

Thats Good News Dale, Glad you can fix it with little cost or work.

#3 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 05:25 AM

Nice to find those kind of problems when they are just loose bolts , even though your changing the rod , still not too bad , Al

#4 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 05:50 AM

Glad you found it before it broke.

#5 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 07:40 AM

Yep, you just went to the "school of hard knocks", but came out in good shape! Just a new rod is great compared to what would have happened if ran a bit!

#6 Bill56 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 09:07 PM

Hope the repair goes easy for you, Dale!

#7 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 09:29 PM

Good news Dale! Keep us posted!

#8 dstaggs OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 09:36 PM

This the old Ford I picked up for junk last year. The PO told me when he got it 7-8 years ago for a project that it was bad, I just had to tear it down and see, hopefully it will run again.

#9 tractorgarden OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2011 - 09:59 PM

This the old Ford I picked up for junk last year. The PO told me when he got it 7-8 years ago for a project that it was bad, I just had to tear it down and see, hopefully it will run again.

You can do it Dale!

#10 cdeal28078 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2011 - 04:36 PM

I am new here and want to contribute so I'll share this. I did a re-gasket job on a Ford 460 before putting it in my truck. Had an oil pump problem and took it back out for new bearings all through. I put it back in and it had a nasty knock. Tore it back down and I had completely missed torquing a rod cap. I thought it was lost but since I never raised the rpm's above an idle I put it together and used plasti-gauge to check the clearance. It was good so I put it together and it has been running great every since.
Might want to check it to see if there is any damage before tossing it. Rods are cheap but if you have to pull the crank and get it sized if you do not have to is money wasted. Just trying to toss this out there and help if I can
clint
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#11 Billygoat OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2011 - 08:17 PM

When installing the new rod, if the bolts thread directly into the rod, over-torque recommended setting by 20%, back off then retorque to correct value. Do not over-torque if it has nuts that hold the rod together. This is called "posi-lock" and the overtorque is not recommended on these. If over-torque is not done on non posi-lock rods the bolts will back out and you will have the same problem again. New posi-lock-260 in lbs; used posi-lock 200 in lbs; capscrew type 342 in lbs first torque, 285 in lbs final torque.
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#12 dstaggs OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2011 - 10:03 PM

Think while it all tore down I will just rebuild with new rings, piston and rod. Will only cost a little more.

#13 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2011 - 04:00 AM

Billygoat, thanks for posting the info.
Dale, might as well get it working the best you can. I'm sure you want it to have a long and productive life. LOL
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#14 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2011 - 05:34 AM

When installing the new rod, if the bolts thread directly into the rod, over-torque recommended setting by 20%, back off then retorque to correct value

Billygoat , is this to deform the threads ( maybe to match the threads on the bolts ) somewhat in the connecting rod so when it's torqued to the correct value it holds better ? Al

Edited by Alc, July 17, 2011 - 05:36 AM.
added


#15 Billygoat OFFLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2011 - 02:29 PM

Yes, that's exactly why the overtorque.
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