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New to me Ford LGT 125

ford lgt 125

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#46 poncho62 ONLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2018 - 06:06 PM

Dont take this personally, but reading this thread, I get the feeling you are in way over your head. You need to solve one problem at a time.

 

First, you need to get the starter to spin the engine. You are saying that the starter spins, but doesn't turn the engine, is this right?

 

When the starter spins, does the ltlle gear on the end of the starter shoot out and mesh with the flywheel gear?...It should

 

If not, your starter is faulty....it needs fixed...That should be your first priority....forget the rest for now


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#47 GhoSt85 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2018 - 06:15 PM

New solenoid and know the starter works everytime and spins good getting its full voltage.  New spark plug as well and I tried putting gas in it as well as trying starter in the carb air intake but still no turn over.  The motor is spinning good and fast though so I dont know if I am getting spark or not.  Going to rebuild the carb tonight also I was thinking .  I believe he points were completely touching when I took the cover off to clean them.  Should they have  a gap?

 

Hey Cribs,

 

I generally check for spark by taking the sparkplug out and connecting it. Lay it where it can grounds and turn the engine over.  This is what I found for breaker points adjustment.

 

Ford%20Electrical_zpspgr9dip5.png

 

Points%20adjustment_zps3lqvf17a.png

 

Points%20adjustment%201_zpsv6wynyvg.png

 

 

You can download the manual here: http://gardentractor...erators-manual/

 

Breaker point adjustment is on page 98

 

GL

GhoSt

 

PS: Poncho is right. Getting the starter to spin the motor should be first priority.


Edited by GhoSt85, May 28, 2018 - 06:20 PM.

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#48 Cribs1450 ONLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2018 - 11:22 PM

Remove the wire from the spark plug. Take the spark plug out. Turn the ignition switch to the off position, remove the key. Take the points cover off and turn the engine over by hand. Watch the points to see if they open. They should be set at twenty thousands, 0.020, for a starting point. 0.020 is about the thickness of two business cards together.

Noel

Thank you, Will do this in the morning! 



#49 Cribs1450 ONLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2018 - 11:33 PM

Dont take this personally, but reading this thread, I get the feeling you are in way over your head. You need to solve one problem at a time.

 

First, you need to get the starter to spin the engine. You are saying that the starter spins, but doesn't turn the engine, is this right?

 

When the starter spins, does the ltlle gear on the end of the starter shoot out and mesh with the flywheel gear?...It should

 

If not, your starter is faulty....it needs fixed...That should be your first priority....forget the rest for now

Haha,  Not taking anything personally,  I don't believe I am totally in over my head, just new into the hobby and this is only the second early 70s GT that I have worked on.  I am learning as I go.   

 

Also, if I was not clear earlier in the thread that may be due to stupidity or one too many cold beers.  

 

The starter engages the flywheel and spins the motor good.  There is no issue their,  I am now looking into if I am getting a spark or not because the starter spins good and the motor tries to fire but won't.  So I understand I have a fuel or spark issue after the starter.  When I cleaned the points about a week ago I noticed they were touching so that was why I posted most recently.   Id Also like to note that I believe I am getting good compression as I can feel it coming out of the muffler as its spinning or when I had spark plug out and turned it over it comes out with good force!

 

This afternoon I pulled the sparkplug out and had it grounded to the top of the motor and tried turning it over.  I don't think I saw a spark, and If i did it was not very prominent.  So that is why I feel as though I should be looking to the coil or the points. (brand new spark plug is in)

 

I also bought some starting fluid and tried to put a little into the intake valve as it was reving and did not get it to turn over.  That is why i think it is a spark issue of sorts

 

So sorry if I am annoying you guys.  I like to get my hands dirty and love the hobby.  I just want this ford running so I can cut my grandparents grass without trailering my massey back and forth every week!  

 

Chad.


Edited by Cribs1450, May 28, 2018 - 11:34 PM.


#50 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2018 - 04:57 AM

Keep at it ,Chad. You’ll get it. That’s what this site is for , helping and learning. But sometimes it’s hard to get ones points across by text message. It’s much easier in person.

Noel
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#51 poncho62 ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2018 - 05:10 AM

OK...sounds to me like you are not getting spark. The points should be open about 19 thou for most of the revolution of the cam. It only closes for a short burst when the coil fires. The wiring for the Kohler coils is very simple. 12 volts to the pos of the coil, the neg of the coil goes to the points and condenser. Look at the right side of this diagram

 

s-g_wire.gif

 

If the points are set right and it still gets no spark, I would look for a bad coil, maybe the condenser


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#52 poncho62 ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2018 - 05:15 AM

Simpler diagram

 

Kohler_IGN-1.jpg

 

 


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#53 Cribs1450 ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2018 - 06:32 AM

Keep at it ,Chad. You’ll get it. That’s what this site is for , helping and learning. But sometimes it’s hard to get ones points across by text message. It’s much easier in person.

Noel

I really do appreciate your patience with me!  I have the day off so I will be working on it after I go to the farm.


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#54 Cribs1450 ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2018 - 06:33 AM

OK...sounds to me like you are not getting spark. The points should be open about 19 thou for most of the revolution of the cam. It only closes for a short burst when the coil fires. The wiring for the Kohler coils is very simple. 12 volts to the pos of the coil, the neg of the coil goes to the points and condenser. Look at the right side of this diagram

 

attachicon.gifs-g_wire.gif

 

If the points are set right and it still gets no spark, I would look for a bad coil, maybe the condenser

Thank you sir,  I appreciate your patience with me. I have the day off so I will be looking at it all day after the farm.



#55 Cribs1450 ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2018 - 09:09 AM

Points are set correctly. I am getting the right voltage at the pos. on the coil as well as the points are moving as they should.  Still no spark.  If you recall earlier in the thread when I received that GT I noticed water in the top of the coil (not oil, I am assuming it was rain water as the top rubber gasket on the spark plug line was not secured to the top of the coil.)  So I took it off and tipped it out, hoping it was dry and good inside after a few days.   

20180515_092523.jpg - note this is old picture, All new wiring has been added.

I will more than likely look for a replacement today.  I do not mind spending the money especially if that is the main issue.  If not, atleast I have a spare :P   I also have a new spare condenser still in packaging at my parents house.  I wonder if that should get replaced at the same time ?!

 

-Chad



#56 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2018 - 10:40 AM

Make sure the condenser is grounded well. If it’s not grounded that will cause spark trouble. And use a coil with an Internal Resistor, if your getting a new one.

While turning the engine over with the key switch, with the points cover off, do you see spark at the points. ?

Noel
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#57 toomanytoys84 ONLINE  

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Posted May 29, 2018 - 05:57 PM

I picked up an ariens gt17 at auction. All that was wrong with it was moisture in the plug on the coil.

Spray some electrical cleaner in there.
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#58 Cribs1450 ONLINE  

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Posted June 16, 2018 - 06:53 AM

Hey GT folks.  Its been a while but just thought I would let you know the ford is now running like a charm and I have been using it for the past week.

 

The things I did were all because of you guys and your help so I really appreciate it.  All in all I spent about 50 bucks on parts but she is done! 

 

Some of which was rebuild carb and electrical cleaner on all pieces.  There was a new negative post I added to battery and changed out some of the ratty looking wires.  I still have to bypass the neutral switch with a flat head though.  might be bent or something it just doesnt reach far enough to engage by itself.

 

Now to paint it up nice and purrdyyy

 

20180514_162323.jpg


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