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Yet another need help thread


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#1 BTS OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2018 - 06:39 PM

:wallbanging:

 

I am having trouble with my Mobility Big Dipper loader, I had it running a few days ago, it was ran great with no issues, I let it sit there idling for a few minutes while I was tossing some junk in the bucket. Then all at once the old engine started sputtering and running horrible. I adjusted the choke around and it didn't do anything. I made some adjustments on the carburetor and still nothing. The spark is great (just put on a coil about a month ago), replaced the spark plugs which didn't help. Fuel filter is not plugged and it is getting gas to the carburetor. Pulled the carburetor off and cleaned it out but it didn't help. Pulled the carburetor off AGAIN cleaned it, used the air compressor to blow air through it, nothing is plugged and it all seems to be on the up and up. Put the carb back on and still runs the same.

The loader will idle but it's rough, when I throttle up it pops, surges, sputters and smells of gas.

 

This has a Ford engine, same engine used on the 600 series farm tractors.

 

Any help would be great, I was in the middle of loading scrap metal when it started giving issues so I'd like to get it running as soon as I can.


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#2 DougT OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2018 - 06:55 PM

Not familiar with what you are working on. Does it have a fuel pump or gravity feed? I know you said it was getting gas but is it getting enough? Have you tried choking it when it quits? Do you have one of those neon spark testers to see if something is happening there? What does it have for timing advance? I've seen points change when the plate rotates. Just throwing a few ideas out there.


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#3 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2018 - 07:02 PM

Not familiar with what you are working on. Does it have a fuel pump or gravity feed? I know you said it was getting gas but is it getting enough? Have you tried choking it when it quits? Do you have one of those neon spark testers to see if something is happening there? What does it have for timing advance? I've seen points change when the plate rotates. Just throwing a few ideas out there.

I own one, and it's mechanical advance, and gravity fuel feed.  If you are certain all fuel passages are clean, I'm thinking it's in the timing.  Maybe the distributor hold down allowed it to move?  I'd put a timing light on it and check that before moving any further.


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#4 propane1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2018 - 07:07 PM

Gas cap vent plugged. Needle and seat bad. Hole in float causing trouble. Ideas for ya. I hate to say this. But almost out of fuel. Happened to me.

Noel
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#5 Vrdaddy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2018 - 07:12 PM

Float level in carb. Ok? Points gap ok or contacts at points clean? Condenser can do some weird things that seem like carb. Issues. Just throwing a couple things out there,hope you can get the old girl running good again.
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#6 propane1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2018 - 07:25 PM

Ya, Bad ground on condenser can cause weird stuff.

Noel
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#7 diesel nut OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2018 - 09:15 PM

What all of the others said and maybe pull the valve cover and check the push rods.  I had a Farmall do the same thing.  Sat there idling perfect while I was hooking a trailer up and suddenly chugging and spitting.  The longer I worked on it the worse it got till it was a constant skip.  Pulled the cover and 1 rod was bent into a S shape in 2 different directions.  Apparently it bent and every time I ran it to clean or adjust something it bent a little more until it was too short to stay in place and popped off the rocker arm


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#8 secondtry OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2018 - 10:55 PM

  Only thing I didn't see referred to above is bad coil wire, Distributor cap, plug wires. Same thing happened to a Datsun that would do that about every 8 months. I would pull the distributor cap and spray it with WD40 wipe it out and reassemble and it would be fine. One time it went south on the free way. I got out and did my thing, didn't have a rag to wipe it out with, getting late for work, hurry, put it back together and fire it up. As soon as I hit the starter it blew the distributor cap back off. Didn't hurt any thing, and that dried out the cap. good to go.   Don 


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#9 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2018 - 11:35 PM

The two most common problems on the old engines were crap in the gas or the points burned alittle. Points should be tested with an ohm meter after they are polished and gapped. You didn't mention the points with the other parts. Good Luck, Rick
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#10 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2018 - 07:57 AM

I have a old 10 hp cast iron Briggs on a wood splitter that acted the same way.  Tried everything under the sun with it.  Would not run right and would burn up the points.  New points and would run OK for an hour or so then crap.  Finally changed the condenser and problems solved.  Has run great ever since.  As several guys have said, those condensers can cause all kinds of stupid things to happen.


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#11 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2018 - 02:03 PM

As stated in other posts I would recommend replacing the ignition condenser if it is points and condenser ignition.  Experienced three intermittent condensers during the years I have worked on gas engines - the first time may drive you crazy trying to diagnose the problem (at least it did me).  Once you experience the first one the next two were easy to figure out.  Condensers are technically electronic capacitors and when they start to go bad and leak electricity instead of storing it they will make an ignition system misfire and the engine will spit, sputter, cough backfire and appear to have no power - this can last for only a few seconds or several minutes.  If you have a timing light I would suggest hooking it up and observing the light flashing to see if it is a nice consistent flashing or intermittent and irregular when the engine is performing poorly.  If it is intermittent or irregular that will tell you that the spark you have is not consistent and is probably being caused by a bad condenser in a points and condenser system.


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#12 BTS OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2018 - 11:24 PM

Thanks for everyone's help and good info. I called up the tractor salvage (also sell new parts) and they have the parts in stock so I will run to town probably Friday (have some others parts for the pickup coming in that day) When I pulled off the distributor cap, I found copper dust on the dust cover (first picture), the contact post on the cap look thin and worn down. However, the rotor does not look like it's been rubbing the post on the cap??? The tractor salvage does not have a cap so I had to order one but I don't know if the new cap is going to wear down like the old one? I checked and the distributor shaft is tight and does not wobble (bearings seem good). I don't know what would have caused this?. I added two pictures inside the cap, the first picture shows how shined up the post are and the other picture shows how thin they are.

 

Thanks again for the help

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#13 propane1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2018 - 02:41 AM

Cap looks fine to me. But hard to tell from pictures. Check it for cracks inside and out.

Noel
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#14 BTS OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2018 - 07:33 AM

Cap looks fine to me. But hard to tell from pictures. Check it for cracks inside and out.

Noel

It doesn't have any cracks, I don't know where all the copper dust came from?, it had to be from the cap???


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#15 propane1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2018 - 07:42 AM

Another thing to check for would be vacuum leaks. Loose carb, intake manifold, vacuum hose fell off or hoses broken or cracked.

Noel
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