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Bolens 1050, Northern Ireland, help!


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#61 Sammoore13bolens1053 ONLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2018 - 04:17 PM

Follow the step by step instructions on the sheet that are highlighted.


I read it again, but do you adjust the “a” nut first until it firm ish, and then nut “g”

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Posted March 04, 2018 - 05:05 PM

First loosen nut "G" (located on the right side of the tractor) several turns - with it loose it will not be applying any side pressure on the axle shaft as you do the adjustment.

 

Then with the tractor rear end supported (jack and axle stands) so that the rear wheels are off the ground you can rotate the left wheel back and forth as you tighten the left nut "A" using your fingers.  If the adjustment has not been done for a long time you may have to clean the thread grooves using a wire brush or small screwdriver, lubricate the threads with penetrating oil and then loosen the nut a half turn or so by hand so the penetrating oil gets worked into the threads of the nut.  Once the nut will turn freely on the threads tighten the nut "A" with your fingers while rotating the wheel back and forth until the wheel starts to drag a bit as you turn it back and forth (you will feel resistance as you rotate the wheel as the endplay is adjusted out of the gears).  Once you start to feel resistance stop trying to tighten the nut "A" and turn it back until the holes in the axle line up with a notch in the nut and reinstall the cotter key.  Then tighten the right hand nut "G" back up with your fingers while rotating the right wheel back and forth until the wheel starts to drag, then stop, turn the nut back until the hole in the axle lines up with a notch in the nut and reinstall the cotter pin.  The instructions mention using a wrench on the nuts but I do not recommend using a wrench as you may tighten things too tight if you are not used to working with wrenches - if everything is free you should be able to do the adjustments using your fingers as I stated.  If you do use a wrench be very careful that you not apply much pressure by trying to force the nut. 

 

The instructions should work ok but if the adjustment has not been for a long time the right side hub may be seized on the axle shaft (the left hub usually does not seize as it constantly rotates on the axle shaft).  If the right hub is seized then you will have to unseize it so the axle can slide inside of it before you can do the adjustment.  


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Posted March 04, 2018 - 05:33 PM

First loosen nut "G" (located on the right side of the tractor) several turns - with it loose it will not be applying any side pressure on the axle shaft as you do the adjustment.
 
Then with the tractor rear end supported (jack and axle stands) so that the rear wheels are off the ground you can rotate the left wheel back and forth as you tighten the left nut "A" using your fingers.  If the adjustment has not been done for a long time you may have to clean the thread grooves using a wire brush or small screwdriver, lubricate the threads with penetrating oil and then loosen the nut a half turn or so by hand so the penetrating oil gets worked into the threads of the nut.  Once the nut will turn freely on the threads tighten the nut "A" with your fingers while rotating the wheel back and forth until the wheel starts to drag a bit as you turn it back and forth (you will feel resistance as you rotate the wheel as the endplay is adjusted out of the gears).  Once you start to feel resistance stop trying to tighten the nut "A" and turn it back until the holes in the axle line up with a notch in the nut and reinstall the cotter key.  Then tighten the right hand nut "G" back up with your fingers while rotating the right wheel back and forth until the wheel starts to drag, then stop, turn the nut back until the hole in the axle lines up with a notch in the nut and reinstall the cotter pin.  The instructions mention using a wrench on the nuts but I do not recommend using a wrench as you may tighten things too tight if you are not used to working with wrenches - if everything is free you should be able to do the adjustments using your fingers as I stated.  If you do use a wrench be very careful that you not apply much pressure by trying to force the nut. 
 
The instructions should work ok but if the adjustment has not been for a long time the right side hub may be seized on the axle shaft (the left hub usually does not seize as it constantly rotates on the axle shaft).  If the right hub is seized then you will have to unseize it so the axle can slide inside of it before you can do the adjustment.


Oktanks very helpful, why a do you mean by the notches in the nuts and lining them up

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Posted March 04, 2018 - 05:52 PM

Oktanks very helpful, why a do you mean by the notches in the nuts and lining them up

 

There is only one hole in the axle for the cotter key and the nut has notches on the outer edge so that they can be lined up and the cotter key installed to lock the nut so it cannot turn as per this picture.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Axle Nut Notches.jpg

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Posted March 05, 2018 - 06:48 AM

Those are known as castle nuts. Here's one.

008236729450.jpg


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Posted March 05, 2018 - 07:42 AM

There is only one hole in the axle for the cotter key and the nut has notches on the outer edge so that they can be lined up and the cotter key installed to lock the nut so it cannot turn as per this picture.


Do you have to remove both wheels?

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Posted March 05, 2018 - 07:53 AM

There is only one hole in the axle for the cotter key and the nut has notches on the outer edge so that they can be lined up and the cotter key installed to lock the nut so it cannot turn as per this picture.


Also, I can push my bolens tractor whilst in neutral, is this bad? Does the rear end need adjusted now? Is it bad? It’s almost like it’s surging when you push it, any ggkhvbts

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Posted March 05, 2018 - 08:34 AM

Do you have to remove both wheels?

You should not have to remove the wheels to do the adjustment.

 

Also, I can push my bolens tractor whilst in neutral, is this bad? Does the rear end need adjusted now? Is it bad? It’s almost like it’s surging when you push it, any ggkhvbts

Normally a Bolens 1053 will not roll if you push it unless the free wheeling pin is disengaged on the right wheel hub if everything is working properly.  It is very difficult to diagnose a problem like this without the tractor (or at the very least some good clear pictures of the parts inside the transmission and rear end.  There could be other problems such as sheared axle keys, something broken inside the rear end (such as gears), gear teeth missing or the key for the main brass gear sheared, etc. It could be the gears are worn enough that the rear end needs to have the adjustment performed and this may fix the problem or as stated there may be other problems that need to be addressed.  Given the fact that the tractor has been repowered with a much larger and more powerful engine the extra horsepower and weight may have overloaded the drivetrain if the clutch was not gently engaged. There may also have been other modifications that have been done to the rear end that you have not told us.  There could also be bearing damage inside the transmission and rear end if the gear lube level was let go too low.  I would not recommend using the tractor until you determine if there is damage to any of the parts in the transmission and rear end and repair it if there is - this will require taking the top cover off of the transmission so you can determine what is going on inside that is allowing the tractor to move when pushed.

 

I do not know what "any ggkhvbts" means so I am not sure what you are trying to ask us.

 


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Posted March 05, 2018 - 10:23 AM

You should not have to remove the wheels to do the adjustment.
 

Normally a Bolens 1053 will not roll if you push it unless the free wheeling pin is disengaged on the right wheel hub if everything is working properly.  It is very difficult to diagnose a problem like this without the tractor (or at the very least some good clear pictures of the parts inside the transmission and rear end.  There could be other problems such as sheared axle keys, something broken inside the rear end (such as gears), gear teeth missing or the key for the main brass gear sheared, etc. It could be the gears are worn enough that the rear end needs to have the adjustment performed and this may fix the problem or as stated there may be other problems that need to be addressed.  Given the fact that the tractor has been repowered with a much larger and more powerful engine the extra horsepower and weight may have overloaded the drivetrain if the clutch was not gently engaged. There may also have been other modifications that have been done to the rear end that you have not told us.  There could also be bearing damage inside the transmission and rear end if the gear lube level was let go too low.  I would not recommend using the tractor until you determine if there is damage to any of the parts in the transmission and rear end and repair it if there is - this will require taking the top cover off of the transmission so you can determine what is going on inside that is allowing the tractor to move when pushed.
 
I do not know what "any ggkhvbts" means so I am not sure what you are trying to ask us.


Sorry, meant any thoughts?

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Posted March 05, 2018 - 04:41 PM

You should not have to remove the wheels to do the adjustment.
 

Normally a Bolens 1053 will not roll if you push it unless the free wheeling pin is disengaged on the right wheel hub if everything is working properly.  It is very difficult to diagnose a problem like this without the tractor (or at the very least some good clear pictures of the parts inside the transmission and rear end.  There could be other problems such as sheared axle keys, something broken inside the rear end (such as gears), gear teeth missing or the key for the main brass gear sheared, etc. It could be the gears are worn enough that the rear end needs to have the adjustment performed and this may fix the problem or as stated there may be other problems that need to be addressed.  Given the fact that the tractor has been repowered with a much larger and more powerful engine the extra horsepower and weight may have overloaded the drivetrain if the clutch was not gently engaged. There may also have been other modifications that have been done to the rear end that you have not told us.  There could also be bearing damage inside the transmission and rear end if the gear lube level was let go too low.  I would not recommend using the tractor until you determine if there is damage to any of the parts in the transmission and rear end and repair it if there is - this will require taking the top cover off of the transmission so you can determine what is going on inside that is allowing the tractor to move when pushed.
 
I do not know what "any ggkhvbts" means so I am not sure what you are trying to ask us.


Any idea what oil is used in the bolens 1053 transmission?

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Posted March 05, 2018 - 04:55 PM

SAE-90 GL-1 Spec gear lube


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#72 Sammoore13bolens1053 ONLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2018 - 05:11 PM

Could you use mineral engine oil?

SAE-90 GL-1 Spec gear lube



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Posted March 05, 2018 - 05:13 PM

SAE-90 GL-1 Spec gear lube


Also, how much is required and would this oil be usable?

https://www.amazon.c...rds=Sae-90 gl-1

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Posted March 05, 2018 - 06:30 PM

Also, how much is required and would this oil be usable?

https://www.amazon.c...rds=Sae-90 gl-1

 

The amount the transmission holds is listed in The Bolens Tube Frame Service Manual that is in the manuals section - attached is the page with the information highlighted.

 

You need to find a 80/90W gear lube that has a GL-1 specification.  Most modern gear oils that have a different specification (GL-4, GL-5 etc.) contain EP additives (Extreme Pressure) that can become corrosive under certain conditions to items made of bronze or brass as per this link https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil  
 

The Bolens transmission/ rear differential used on the Tube Frame tractors contains a large bronze gear as well as bronze bushings that may be damaged by being exposed to the EP additives.  You may have to check with an auto parts store or lubricant supply place to get them to help you locate the proper gear oil as I am not familiar with the gear oils offered in Ireland.

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  • Gear Drive Lucrication Chart.jpg

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Posted March 10, 2018 - 01:45 PM

The amount the transmission holds is listed in The Bolens Tube Frame Service Manual that is in the manuals section - attached is the page with the information highlighted.
 
You need to find a 80/90W gear lube that has a GL-1 specification.  Most modern gear oils that have a different specification (GL-4, GL-5 etc.) contain EP additives (Extreme Pressure) that can become corrosive under certain conditions to items made of bronze or brass as per this link https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil  
 
The Bolens transmission/ rear differential used on the Tube Frame tractors contains a large bronze gear as well as bronze bushings that may be damaged by being exposed to the EP additives.  You may have to check with an auto parts store or lubricant supply place to get them to help you locate the proper gear oil as I am not familiar with the gear oils offered in Ireland.


Ok so, I’m now in the process of preparing to paint, should I take all the panels off, or just keep them off and paint where you can see? Got a nice paint, I think it’ll be great, but I checked the rear end oil and it poured out, where can you check how much is in it? Thanks




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