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Tube Frame Gear Drive Hydraulic Lift Build With Generic Pump, Valve And Cylinder


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#31 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2018 - 03:24 PM

Stew watching you work through the design/build of this hydro lift pump makes you appreciate the engineers that designed the original lifts pump.

 

Keep up the good work! :D  


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#32 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2018 - 04:14 PM

Don't know how I've missed this build till now.  Great work Stew!  


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#33 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2018 - 03:48 PM

Stew watching you work through the design/build of this hydro lift pump makes you appreciate the engineers that designed the original lifts pump.

 

Keep up the good work! :D  

 

Yes I imagine that there are perhaps a retired Bolens engineer or two laughing at what I am trying to do - they made it look simple the way they did it.  :rolling:

 


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#34 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2018 - 04:02 PM

Thanks for the kind words.

 

Decided that I should jack the front axle up so that it was against the stop to make sure nothing was going to catch on the right front wheel in that position.  Things looked good so I carried on like I knew what I was doing.  Got the rest of the fittings for the pump and valve so I threaded one into both sides of the pump and checked for clearance from side to side.  I need to extend the bracket about 1/2" to be able to add an outer brace and keep the fittings contained within the bracket.  I also thought about rotating the pump a bit to see what that would do as you can see in pictures 4, 5 and 6.  This would allow for the intake to the pump fitting being closer to the bottom of the bracket and allow the width of the bracket to remain very close to 5-5/8".  The only drawback would be that I would have to probably add an ear in the slot for the fourth bolt hole and the fitting that goes to the control valve would be a bit higher and on a bit of an angle outward.  I am still running that idea around in my mind but in the meantime I added a 1/2" piece to the outer edge and then tacked a brace on the outside to match the inner brace.  The extra 1/2" width should not cause any problems and I can still rotate the pump a little bit when I get to figuring out the oil tank. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Wheel View From Top With Axle Against Pivot Stop.jpg
  • 2 Wheel View From Side With Axle Against Pivot Stop.jpg
  • 3 Need To Extend Outer  Edge Of Bracket About Half An Inch.jpg
  • 4 Thinking About Rotating Pump For Clearance.jpg
  • 5 Intake Fitting To Carriage Bolt Clearance Might Be Tight.jpg
  • 6 Outlet Fitting Would Be Higher And Would Have To Make A Filler Piece For Fourth Mounting Bolt.jpg
  • 7 Outer Edge Extended And Outer Brace And Spacer Pieces Tacked Beside Hole Slots.jpg
  • 8 Bottom View.jpg
  • 9 Bottom View.jpg
  • 10 Side View.jpg
  • 11 Top View.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, February 18, 2018 - 04:11 PM.

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#35 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2018 - 04:10 PM

Then I mounted the pump back in the bracket and reinstalled it on the tractor.  As you can see I cut the top off of the one F bracket which will allow the hose from the pump to the valve to slip out the top at the rear of the bracket.  While the bracket was off I also tacked strips of metal beside the hole slots so now the carriage bolts will tighten up on the bracket before bottoming on the shoulder.  Then I took some pictures and had another look at how things were shaping up.  I think I will mull the idea of rotating the pump a bit around in my mind for a day or two and in the meantime I will make a bracket to bolt onto the pump bracket and hold the control valve.  I have held the control valve in the position I am hoping to mount it and it looks promising so we'll see how it looks once I get the bracket for it made.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Pump Bolted Back In Bracket.jpg
  • 2 Pump Bolted Back In Bracket.jpg
  • 3 Top Of F Bracket Cut To Make Room For Hose.jpg
  • 4 Carraige Bolts Will Now Tighten To Hold Bracket.jpg
  • 5 Rear View.jpg
  • 6 Front View.jpg
  • 7 Side View.jpg
  • 8 Rear View Under Pulley.jpg
  • 9 Area Where Tank Will Go.jpg
  • 10 Area Where Tank Will Go.jpg

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#36 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2018 - 04:47 PM

Made a pattern from some cardboard to figure out what length and where the two mounting holes for the control valve should go, cut some steel and tacked welded the pieces together to form a mounting bracket for the control valve. I offset the end that bolts onto the pump bracket so the valve would be offset outwards about 1/2" from centre so that I would have a bit more clearance for the inner fitting on the valve where it goes along the side of the rear tractor panel.  I cut  a short piece out of the one angle iron so that I had room for the nut and it will allow the drive belt to clear - may have to cut a bit more out yet - will have to see when I get a drive belt in position.  Once I figure out the belt and belt guard position the cut out area will get boxed for strength.  I drilled two sets of mounting holes for the valve and left the bracket a bit longer than necessary so that I could move the valve back about 1-1/2" if necessary.  Did a test fit for the mounting holes and things looked good so I bolted the bracket on to the pump bracket. 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Pattern For Valve Mounting Holes.jpg
  • 2 Bracket Tacked Together Note Offset Mounting Holes.jpg
  • 3 Bottom View With Area Cut Out For Nut.jpg
  • 4 Bracket Bolted On.jpg
  • 5 May HAve To Cut Out A Bit More On Inner Piece For Belt.jpg
  • 6 Rear View.jpg
  • 7 Rear View.jpg
  • 8 View Underneath.jpg

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#37 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2018 - 04:59 PM

Then I bolted the control valve onto the bracket and checked out how things looked.  I threaded the handle for the valve into the top hole on the valve which would make the handle a little out of reach for the operator and very close to the side of the hood.  The inner fitting has about 3/8" clearance between it and the side panel and lots when the pump bracket is slid outward so it should work ok.  One of the nice things about the newer style control valves is that the handle can be removed and threaded in at 90 degrees so I tried that which moved the handle back so the operator could easily reach it and with the handle laying down it is a nice distance away from the hood as you can see by the pictures.  The handle may need to be a little higher at the rear but I can make a small bracket to bolt onto the valve to accomplish this if necessary - hard to tell since at the moment I have the seat and rear fender removed.  I sat on my 1050 and where the handle sits will work as I can reach it easily from the seated position but it may come close to my knee - will have to see once I am seated on the 1053.  All the hoses should clear and not interfere with things as they will easily drop down from the valve by the time they have to clear the muffler.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 WIth Lever Upright Lever Is Very Close To Hood.jpg
  • 2 Inner Fitting On Control Valve Just Clears When Bracket Is All The Way In.jpg
  • 3 Valve Has Thread So Handle Can Lay Down.jpg
  • 4 Inner Fitting Clearance When Bracket Is Slid Out A Bit On Adjustment.jpg
  • 5 Side View With Handle Uprignt.jpg
  • 6 Valve Handle Threaded In Laid Down.jpg
  • 7 Top View.jpg
  • 8 Angle View.jpg
  • 9 Fittings On Pump And Valve Line Up.jpg
  • 10 Front View.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, February 19, 2018 - 09:10 PM.

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#38 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2018 - 05:05 PM

Then I took a few more further away pictures so you have a better idea of how things look in relation to the side of the tractor.  I also moved the valve back to the rear mounting holes to see how the lever would function in that position - it should work fine in either location and the extra length of the bracket should not hurt anything so I will leave the bracket as is for now - eventually it will have an inner and outer brace running from the bottom of the pump bracket to the rear of the valve bracket once I see how everything else is looking. In the pictures the manual lift lever is right beside the control valve lever but if this works the manual lift lever will have a new home on a shelf (I hope).

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Rear Side View.jpg
  • 2 Rear Side View.jpg
  • 3 Side View.jpg
  • 4 Side View.jpg
  • 5 Front Corner View.jpg
  • 6 Front Corner View.jpg
  • 7 Control Valve Mounted In Rear Holes.jpg
  • 8 Control Valve Mounted In Rear Holes.jpg
  • 9 Control Valve Mounted In Rear Holes.jpg

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#39 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2018 - 03:58 PM

Yes I imagine that there are perhaps a retired Bolens engineer or two laughing at what I am trying to do - they made it look simple the way they did it.  :rolling:

Yes I see what you are saying :D , but what I meant was watching you work through the design with all the details involved just shows you how much work it was to come up with a simple practical design that has proved its longevity because there is still alot of them out there still being used today.

 

Anyway again good job Stew! :wave:


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#40 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2018 - 04:58 PM

Yes I see what you are saying :D , but what I meant was watching you work through the design with all the details involved just shows you how much work it was to come up with a simple practical design that has proved its longevity because there is still alot of them out there still being used today.

 

Anyway again good job Stew! :wave:

I have to agree with it takes time and lots of thought to do something like this. You are doing a good job of it! Should serve you well!


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#41 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2018 - 05:00 PM

Thanks for the kind words.  Yes there are several factors to consider when trying to mount a pump and tank on a garden tractor - I believe that the pump Bolens used was not made by them but purchased from another company as my brothers Simplicity Landlord has a very similar pump on it and if I could have purchased a new pump with the control valve and tank built in as a compact unit it would be a lot easier but most of the ones I have seen today are 12 volt DC motor driven, have a plastic tank and not much more compact than the modified design that I am coming up with.  One of the things I have been mulling around in my mind while I worked on the control valve bracket was the oil reservoir as I wanted a small steel one which no one seems to make at what I consider a reasonable cost that would fit in the location I want it to go.  I also wanted to make sure that the reservoir would have enough oil capacity that the inlet to the pump from the tank would always be covered in oil so that the pump would never be able to suck air if the tractor was on a side to side or front to rear incline which can happen if the tractor is being used on a hilly landscape. This finally led me to a decision on rotating the pump.

 

I decided to rotate the pump so that the inlet fitting on the pump would be lower than it would be if I left the pump level.  Gently clamped the pump in place with a pair of vise grips and marked out a hole location once I decided on where the pump would sit so that the centre of the inlet and the bracket would be about 3/4".  Used an empty .946L (US quart) oil container to give me an idea of how much space a quart of oil would occupy and how the oil would sit in such a tank in relation to the pump inlet if the tractor was on an angle side to side.  Once I had three new bolt holes drilled I mounted the pump in the bracket and did a test fit to see how things looked.  The fitting that goes to the control valve is rotated a little bit outward but still should work fine and everything else looked ok so I welded on an ear for the fourth bolt and drilled the fourth hole.  The outer F bracket was just hitting the outer brace in the rotated position so the top got cut off it and I now have two C brackets but I can still hold them with my fingers to start the pump mounting bolts.  The next step will be to start making a tank - not sure whether to go with pieces of 1/8" flat steel welded together or 16 gauge metal which would not be as thick but would probably require less welding.  Since my welding is not all that great I will have to weld up the joins, check for leaks and probably have to grind and reweld some spots that leak.  Been researching online and most tank builders give the same advice - get the steel as clean as you can before you start welding and keep the welds short to prevent metal distortion.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Deciding On How Much To Rotate Pump.jpg
  • 2 Deciding On How Much To Rotate Pump.jpg
  • 3 Centre Of Oil Intake Fitting Will Be About Three Quarters Inch Above Bracket.jpg
  • 4 US Quart Empty Oil Container To Give An Idea Of Tank Capacity.jpg
  • 5 Oil Pump Intake If Tractor Is On An Angle.jpg
  • 6 Test Fit Of Rotated Pump In Bracket.jpg
  • 7 Test Fit Of Rotated Pump In Bracket.jpg
  • 8 Test Fit Of Rotated Pump In Bracket.jpg
  • 9 Three Holes Drilled For Pump Test Fit.jpg
  • 10 Ear Needed For Fourth Bolt Hole.jpg
  • 11 Ear Welded On.jpg
  • 12 Ear Welded On.jpg
  • 13 Pump Bolted On And F Bracket Cut.jpg
  • 14 Four Bolts Holding Pump On Again.jpg

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#42 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2018 - 03:55 PM

Started working on the tank and verifying how large I could make it as well as how I was going to have the intake line exit the tank to go to the pump inlet.  I ordered four 3/8" NPT weld on bungs when I ordered the hydraulic fittings in anticipation that I would be making a tank and I had a steel 3/8" NPTM to 1/4" NPTM adaptor that I was going to use to connect the oil tank bung to the pump intake fitting.  The hydraulic fitting on the pump with the female thread seals on the end face rather than the threads and the steel fitting I had did not have a sealing face so it made a trip to the lathe and came back with a sealing area machined to mate to the pump fitting.  Then I threaded the steel fitting onto the pump fitting and threaded a weld on bung on the other end to get an idea of how far back the tank would sit in the bracket as I would need access to the nut on the pump fitting to tighten it.  I put a pen mark on the bracket where the rear of the tank would sit and from there decided that I would make the tank 5" long - I wanted the tank to hold about two quarts of oil and using the empty oil container a 5" long tank should easily accommodate that since I figured the tank will be 5-1/2" wide so I can adjust it sideways a bit in the bracket and the tank should be about 4-1/2" high.  The tape measure case plus 2" works out to 4-3/4" and I want the tank to sit about 1/4" up off the bracket.  After double checking that the tank should clear when the bracket and tank are mounted on the tractor I decided to start building the tank out of 1/8" flat steel.  The outer edge of the tank at the bottom will be stepped inward so that I can have the fitting go straight into the bung.     

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Sealing Face In Female Fitting.jpg
  • 2 Sealing Surface On Male Pipe Fitting.jpg
  • 4 Steel Fitting With No Sealing Area.jpg
  • 5 Steel Fitting Now Has A Sealing Surface.jpg
  • 6 Fitting And Weld Bung Threaded Onto Pump.jpg
  • 7 Figuring Out Length Of tank Will Be Five Inches.jpg
  • 8 Aprroxomate Volume Of One Quart Of Oil.jpg
  • 9 Ink Mark Will Be Where Rear Of Tank Stops So I Can Access Nut On Pump Fitting.jpg
  • 10 Width Of Tank Will Be Five And A Half Inches.jpg
  • 11 Maximum Height Above Bracket Will Be Four And Three Quarter Inches.jpg
  • 12 Five Inch Tank Length Should Still Leave Space Between Hood And Tank.jpg
  • 13 Five And A Half Inch Width Should Clear.jpg
  • 14 Tape Measure Case Is Two And Three Quarter Inches (70 MM).jpg
  • 15 70 MM Is Apprioximately Two And Three Quarters Inches.jpg

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#43 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2018 - 04:37 PM

Cut two pieces of 2" x 1/8" flat steel and after I gave them a good wire brushing I marked them at 4-3/8" and 9-3/8" and bent them in a U shape to start forming the tank - the two pieces when welded together will give me a 4" width.  Then I cut a piece of 1-1/2" x 1/8" steel to make the outer edge of the tank where the step will go.  I marked where the hole for the bung should go and drilled a 1/2" hole for it.  I decided that having the steel fitting from the tank connecting directly to the pump fitting might be too rigid so I decided I would go with two hose barbs and use a short piece of hose to connect them as this should let the pump and tank flex a little bit if necessary without anything starting to leak of the steel fitting to crack.  I bent the piece of 1-1/2" steel to shape and set it on top of the other two pieces - the 1-1/2" piece will give me a tank width of 5-1/2" when it is welded to the other pieces.  Things looked good so I cut and bent another piece of 1-1/2" x 1/8 steel to complete the stepped area - the step will be filled in on the side with another piece of steel.  The step gives the tank more oil volume and will let the hose run underneath the tank to the hose barb. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Two Pieces Of Two Inch Wide Steel Cut.jpg
  • 2 Pieces Bent In U Shape.jpg
  • 3 Pieces Bent In U Shape.jpg
  • 4 Pieces Set In Bracket.jpg
  • 5 Pieces Set In Bracket.jpg
  • 6 Test Fit On Engine.jpg
  • 7 Test Fit On Engine.jpg
  • 8 Third Piece Of Steel Cut And Hole Drilled For Bung.jpg
  • 9 Test Fit Of Bung.jpg
  • 10 Third Piece Bent.jpg
  • 11 Fourth Piece Cut And Bent.jpg
  • 12 Fourth Piece Cut And Bent.jpg
  • 13 Decided To Use Barb Fitting And Hose.jpg
  • 14 Hose Will Run To Pump From Bung Area.jpg

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#44 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2018 - 05:18 PM

That's gonna take a lot of weld to put together!


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#45 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2018 - 05:23 PM

That's gonna take a lot of weld to put together!

 

It will take a bit but if I take my time it should not distort much (I hope).  I would have made most of it in one piece and just welded in the step area but I don't have the ability to bend 4" or 6" wide pieces.  It will give me something to do for the next week or so.  :wallbanging:
 


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