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Tube Frame Gear Drive Hydraulic Lift Build With Generic Pump, Valve And Cylinder


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#1 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2018 - 03:25 PM

As I started to clean up the Hydraulic lift manuals that were posted on the site it twigged my memory that I had purchased a new hydraulic cylinder on sale a couple of years ago with the intention of building another hydraulic lift for one of my tube frame tractors.  I made one a few years ago using a GM power steering pump and a 1-1/2" bore cylinder for my one 1050 that I use for blowing snow.  It works quite nicely but I had to mount the pump behind the engine so that the pump would rotate in the same direction as it would on the car engine and modified the reservoir on the pump so that it would hold more oil as I did not want to run the pump dry with the larger bore cylinder.  Since I had a couple of gift cards for Princess Auto (a store in Canada that is similar to Harbour Freight) I had received this past Christmas and the one before that I had not used I decided to purchase a new pump and control valve on sale to use them up.  I needed a break from cleaning up the manuals and had an itching to do something in the shop so I did some measurements and I think I have come up with a plan that will let me make a hydraulic lift using new "off the shelf" parts which should outlast me.  The new cylinder has a 1" bore and a 6" stroke which is a little longer than the stroke of an original cylinder that Bolens used - I believe the original cylinder had a stroke of about 5-1/4".  It also is a utility cylinder so it does not have the clevis at the front and the ports are 90 degrees to where the ports are on an original cylinder.  Even with these differences I am hoping to come up with a lift that should mount similar to the way the original unit did and function very similar.  I know these lifts come up for sale occasionally but they are usually in the U.S. and by the time I factor in the exchange rate and shipping the cost of making one starts to look attractive since I don't count my labour.  I thought I would do a thread on it since it may help someone who has a bad pump or cylinder and give them ideas about replacing one or the other to keep their unit functioning - I hope you don't mind. 

 

I am hoping to mount the cylinder, pump and tank in basically the same position as where they would have been originally and mount the control valve above and behind the pump area where the rod would normally go back to the operator area..  I have been doing some calculating, thinking and studying pictures of the original lift the last few days and think I have come up with a plan (may have to do a few changes as I go but that is part of the fun of building it.  One of the things I had to factor in was clearance between the head of the carriage bolts that will mount the bracket to the rails that support the bracket and the pump and tank.  Here are pictures of the cylinder and pump I am going to try and use - the pump is designed so it can be driven in either direction to pump hydraulic oil. I have ordered a 4-1/2" diameter pulley for the 1/2" pump shaft and I should be able to fabricate a tank to mount ahead of the pump.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Hydraulic Cylinder.jpg
  • 2 Retracted Length Of Cylinder.jpg
  • 3 Width Of Cylinder.jpg
  • 4 Part Number Of Cylinder.jpg
  • 5 Five Sxteenths Carriage Bolt Head And Shoulder Height.jpg
  • 6 Hydraulic Pump.jpg
  • 7 Hydraulic Pump.jpg
  • 8 Hydraulic Pump.jpg
  • 9 Carriage Bolt Head Pump Will Have To Clear When Mounted In Bracket.jpg
  • 10 Hydraulic Pump.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, February 10, 2018 - 10:39 AM.

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#2 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2018 - 03:32 PM

Here are pictures of the control valve - definitely overkill for this situation since the pump is only rated at 2.2 gpm but I should be able to find room - will have to move the lever back or forward instead of side to side to raise and lower but I can live with that.  Got some 1/8" flat steel cut today to start making the bracket that the pump and tank will mount on - the control valve will be supported by a bracket that will bolt to this bracket (I hope).  The last picture is a drawing of dimensions I have calculated to give an idea of how the power unit pieces will be mounted. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Distance Along Side Of Engine To Belt Location.jpg
  • 2 Steel Cut To Start Fabricating Bottom Of Pump Bracket.jpg
  • 3 Steel Cut To Start Fabricating Upright For Pump Bracket.jpg
  • 4 Steel Laid Out For Pump Bracket.jpg
  • 5 Control Valve.jpg
  • 6 Control Valve.jpg
  • 7 Control Valve.jpg
  • 8 Control Valve.jpg
  • 9 Control Valve.jpg
  • 10 Valve Pump And Tank Bracket Layout.jpg

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#3 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2018 - 04:56 PM

I'll follow this! Cool little pump!

 

I need one of those pumps for my Cub!


Edited by KennyP, February 07, 2018 - 05:21 PM.

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#4 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2018 - 06:34 PM

Stew thanks for doing this, I have been thinking about building a generic pump lift for one of my tube frames that I will be repowering, since it will not be original it is a good candidate for a home built pump.

 

What program do you use to do your drawings with? I like the way you do it.

 

Great job as usual!  :thumbs:


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#5 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2018 - 06:37 PM

I'll follow this! Cool little pump!

 

I need one of those pumps for my Cub!

 

One of the reasons I went for it was the small physical size - here is a link to it -

https://www.princess...AyAAEgIikvD_BwE
 

Not inexpensive even when it is on sale but at the low gpm it should take very little horsepower to drive it and provide lots of volume for this application.  They offer larger gpm pumps as well but the maximum pressure rating drops quite a bit. By comparison a GM power steering pump like I used on the other lift can move around 10 - 15 gpm.  


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#6 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2018 - 07:10 PM

Stew thanks for doing this, I have been thinking about building a generic pump lift for one of my tube frames that I will be repowering, since it will not be original it is a good candidate for a home built pump.

 

What program do you use to do your drawings with? I like the way you do it.

 

 

 

Thanks for the kind words.  If you want an inexpensive pump and don't want to go new you could check out an auto wreckers for one off of a GM vehicle but you have to watch as using too large a cylinder can allow the fluid level to drop in the reservoir when the cylinder is in the extended position to the point where the pump could be starved for oil. Then you will have to adapt a pulley to it and make sure it is mounted so the pump is driven the same way as the vehicle engine did.  Attached is a picture of how I did my one 1050 but I ended up modifying the canister after the picture was taken so it held more oil.  I repowered it with a Honda GX390 as when I bought it I did not get the original engine in case you are wondering why the engine does not look right.

 

I use Microsoft Digital Image Editor 2006 to do the drawing - long since discontinued and no longer supported by Microsoft.  I believe if you hunt around you can find a free download of it but I think it stops working after a few months unless you have a paid for version with the proper key.  I purchased it when it first came out and  have used it for years and am familiar with it so I keep using it (still works with Windows 10) but I imagine there are a lot better programs available now from other software makers.  
 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Hydraulic Lift Side View.jpg

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#7 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2018 - 07:19 PM

I have one of those pumps. Been thinking about using it!


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#8 secondtry ONLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2018 - 01:48 AM

 I have seen GM power steering pumps with a remote tank, if I remember correctly it was on Pontiac with a 4 cylinder engine.  Could have been mid 80s. Don.


Edited by secondtry, February 08, 2018 - 01:50 AM.

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#9 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2018 - 04:06 PM

Got the 1/8" thick flat steel pieces tacked and welded to start making the upright and bottom parts that will form the pump bracket.  Then the welds got sanded and rewelded in a few spots I had missed with the first passes and sanded them down.  Did a test fit of the upright against the pump and found that I needed to fill in the slot area so I cut two pieces of 3/4" x 1/8" flat steel and welded them in.  Once that was done I marked out the four bolt hole positions and drilled them in the upright piece.  I had originally planned on a 1" spacing from the bottom of the bracket to the lower bolt holes but I changed that to 1-1/4" spacing from the bottom of the bracket so that the heads of the carriage bolts that will mount the bracket to the support bars will clear the pump bottom as the bracket slides to tension the pump drive belt.  Next I will have to mark and cut out a circular area in the upright piece for the pump shoulder.  By the time I got that much done I was getting cold so I called it a day.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Upright Pieces tacked Together.jpg
  • 2 Upright Pieces Welded.jpg
  • 3 Bottom Pieces Tacked.jpg
  • 4 Bottom Pieces Welded.jpg
  • 5 Welds Sanded On Bottom Piece.jpg
  • 6 Welds Sanded And Test Fit Of Upright Piece.jpg
  • 7 Pieces Ready To Weld To Fill In Slot.jpg
  • 8 Pieces Welded In.jpg
  • 9 Welds Sanded.jpg
  • 10 Welds Sanded Other Side.jpg
  • 11 Test Fit Against Pump.jpg
  • 12 Holes Drilled To For Pump.jpg
  • 13 Holes Drilled For Pump.jpg
  • 14 Upright Still Needs To Be Cut Out For Pump Shoulder.jpg

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#10 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2018 - 05:30 PM

Hey Stew it looks like your getting a good start on your project, looking forward to seeing how it all looks when fabricated.

 

I was checking with a company in the US called Northern Tool & Equipment and they have this pump I was wondering what you thought of it, if it was big enough to do the job. It is on sale I could not copy the web site onto the post so I saved it as a PDF file.

 

Let me know what you think.

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#11 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2018 - 07:23 PM

Hey Stew it looks like your getting a good start on your project, looking forward to seeing how it all looks when fabricated.

 

I was checking with a company in the US called Northern Tool & Equipment and they have this pump I was wondering what you thought of it, if it was big enough to do the job. It is on sale I could not copy the web site onto the post so I saved it as a PDF file.

 

Let me know what you think.

 

I am not a hydraulics expert so I would suggest you contact them and explain what you are planning to use the pump for and see what they recommend.

 

Having said that I will say that it looks very similar to the one I am using but looks can be deceiving.  The fact that it is on sale for such an inexpensive price compared with the other ones they offer makes me think that they are either trying to clear them out or it is not made as well - just my opinion.  One thing I have learned over the years is that you usually get what you pay for.  Their item number 10563 is 149.99 (versus 109.99 for the one you are looking at when it is not on sale) and looks like it has the same specs as the pump I am hoping to use.  If you drive it with a 4-1/2" pulley it will probably run about half engine speed using the belt groove in a tube frame so at 3600 engine rpm it will be rotating at about 1800 rpm at full throttle.  If you look at the specs that they show for the 2.0 GPM pump it drops to 1.0 GPM at 1800 rpm - I would assume that the less expensive pump would do the same.  If I did my calculations correctly a 1" bore x 6" stroke cylinder displaces 4.725 C.I. and a quart of oil is 57.75 C.I. in volume so a gallon of oil would be about 200 C.I. Using this information I would say that the pump will probably move about 100 C.I of oil in a minute so it would move about 1.6 C.I. of oil per second so it will probably take about 2 - 3 seconds to move the cylinder from fully extended to fully retracted.  This does not take into account restrictions or losses in the system - i.e. hose diameter. temperature of the oil, engine rpms, etc.  As I stated I am not a hydraulics expert so my math may not be correct and there may be other factors that I am not considering which is why I would recommend you contact them or someone trained in hydraulics.  The other thing that they do not mention is how much side load the pump can take.  The one I am using has a bearing on the shaft and is rated at 150 lbs. maximum side load which should work fine for a belt and pulley application the way I am planning on using it.  The pump you are looking at appears to have a bearing on the shaft but it could just be a bushing behind a seal.  Not trying to scare you away from it but I would suggest you check with them on side load applications, what size of cylinder you are planning on using with it, pulley diameter you will be using as a larger diameter pulley than what is on the engine will reduce the operating rpms of the pump, the length and diameter of the hoses and size of control valve as they will all affect how well the pump performs and lasts.  


Edited by 29 Chev, February 08, 2018 - 08:28 PM.

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#12 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2018 - 09:27 PM

Thanks Stew for taking the time to go through all that, I will call and talk with them but I don't believe that the pump I was looking at will be able to pump fast enough for the cylinder to operate correctly.


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#13 Husky OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2018 - 01:08 PM

Stew this is a very interesting project. Not only is this going to be a nice setup but having everything new will be nice. Your pictures and explanations are awesome thank you for posting them.


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#14 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2018 - 03:22 PM

Thanks for the kind words.

 

Got the circle marked out on the bracket using a partially used cut off blade that was a bit larger than the diameter of the boss on the pump - centered the used blade in relation to the four bolt holes.   Sometimes I will use a cut off blade a little bit and remove it before it is completely worn out and then use it later when I need a smaller diameter blade to grind or cut in a tight location.   Then I used a hacksaw to cut slits in the steel into the mark and once that was done I used the hacksaw to remove most of the steel fingers. Used the die grinder with a carbide burr to clean up the opening and did a test fit of the piece on the pump mounting flange.  The circle diameter is plenty big but it will work and should make it easy to remove the pump from the bracket should the need arise.  I bolted the piece to the pump with four 5/16" x 1" UNC cap screws and nuts - the final bolts I use will probably be shorter.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Used Cutoff Disc To Mark Out Circle.jpg
  • 2 Circle Pattern Marked Out.jpg
  • 3 Hacksaw Used To Cut Into Mark.jpg
  • 4 Metal Fingers Cut With Hacksaw.jpg
  • 5 Opening Cleaned Up WIth Die Grinder And Carbide Burr.jpg
  • 6 Test Fit Of Piece On Pump.jpg
  • 7 Pump Bolted To Upright Bracket Piece.jpg
  • 8 Rear View.jpg
  • 9 Top View.jpg

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#15 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2018 - 03:35 PM

I knew that with my big hands I would never be able to start the nuts on the lower bolts to mount the pump once the bracket is completed with the sides in place so I made two "F" brackets to weld nuts to that would fit against the back of the pump flange.  Cut out some 1/8" X 3/4" pieces of flat steel and welded them together to for the "F".  Once that was done I sanded the welds and welded two 5/16"" UNC nuts to each bracket to form two mirrored pieces - rounded the corners around the nut locations so they would fit in the opening at the back of the pump flange.  Ran a tap through the nuts and then bolted the pump to the bracket to see how things looked.  The "F" brackets can be held with vise grips or a pair of needle nose pliers to start the bolts and then I can tighten the bolts without having to hold the nuts.   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Pieces Cut To Make F Bracket.jpg
  • 2 Pieces Clamped Ready To Weld.jpg
  • 3 Pieces Welded Together.jpg
  • 4 Welds Sanded And Holes Marked.jpg
  • 5 Five Sixteenths Nuts Welded To F Brackets.jpg
  • 6 Corners Rounded Around Nuts.jpg
  • 7 Pump Bolted To Upright Bracket.jpg
  • 8 Side View.jpg
  • 9 Side View.jpg
  • 10 Bottom View.jpg

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