Jump to content

Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

John Deere Quik-Tatch hitch on 1655


  • Please log in to reply
50 replies to this topic

#16 Leonard VanCamp ONLINE  

Leonard VanCamp

    Deere Herder

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 62684
  • 1091 Thanks
  • 683 posts
  • Location: Pocono's PA

Posted March 16, 2018 - 10:31 PM

Looks like that quick hitch is for the newer 400 series Deeres (425, 455 etc) I have a 86 420 and the front hitch points are two hook like slots in the bottom and two pin holes at the top. Does your blade have a locking pin to lock out the trip function? My older 43 and 54 blades both have a trip lock pin so you can use the blade like a dozer.



#17 MacWorld OFFLINE  

MacWorld

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1195
  • 189 Thanks
  • 173 posts
  • Location: South shore of Montreal, Quebec, Canada

Posted March 17, 2018 - 07:17 AM

Leonard VanCamp : Do you mean on your 420's frame there are hook slots at the bottom and holes at top? This is the tractor's side of the Quik-Tatch hitch, on the implement side as far as I know it's always J shaped slots at top and holes at the bottom. The implements of your 420 should be interchangeable with the current implements! There is a lot of versions of the "tractor side" of the Quik-Tatch but the interface with the implement should always be the same.

 

I don't know if this link will work but this is the page for the Quik-Tatch on 420's https://partscatalog...n/pgId/20428102

 

My blade does have a lock out for the trip, I use it to rip ice when I want to be agressive and lift the front wheels off the ground to put pressure on the ground


  • KennyP and Leonard VanCamp have said thanks

#18 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 53258 Thanks
  • 53342 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted March 17, 2018 - 07:42 AM

Leonard VanCamp : Do you mean on your 420's frame there are hook slots at the bottom and holes at top? This is the tractor's side of the Quik-Tatch hitch, on the implement side as far as I know it's always J shaped slots at top and holes at the bottom. The implements of your 420 should be interchangeable with the current implements! There is a lot of versions of the "tractor side" of the Quik-Tatch but the interface with the implement should always be the same.

 

I don't know if this link will work but this is the page for the Quik-Tatch on 420's https://partscatalog...n/pgId/20428102

 

My blade does have a lock out for the trip, I use it to rip ice when I want to be agressive and lift the front wheels off the ground to put pressure on the ground

Link didn't work.


  • MacWorld said thank you

#19 MacWorld OFFLINE  

MacWorld

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1195
  • 189 Thanks
  • 173 posts
  • Location: South shore of Montreal, Quebec, Canada

Posted March 17, 2018 - 07:55 AM

image.png


  • KennyP said thank you

#20 Leonard VanCamp ONLINE  

Leonard VanCamp

    Deere Herder

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 62684
  • 1091 Thanks
  • 683 posts
  • Location: Pocono's PA

Posted March 17, 2018 - 11:32 PM

There are a couple different styles of the quick hitch, one for the 300 series, one for the early 400 series (420,430) one for the later 400 series, and I think one for the larger 550-750 series. I have the older blades, not the newer quick hitch style, I think the older ones are little bit more stouter. Also they come with a built in float feature. I will admit it's nice to have one mount for a variety of attachments though. There was a guy on WFM that makes a grapple for the quick hitch, good for moving log sections around.


Edited by Leonard VanCamp, March 17, 2018 - 11:33 PM.

  • KennyP said thank you

#21 MacWorld OFFLINE  

MacWorld

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1195
  • 189 Thanks
  • 173 posts
  • Location: South shore of Montreal, Quebec, Canada

Posted March 18, 2018 - 06:58 AM

To what I found there are at least those models of Quik-Tatch, this list comes from the compatibility charts of the 2 versions of the 47" snowblower (M01471X and M047SBX)

BM18121 : 318, 322, 332

BM18122 : 420, 430

BM17347 : 445, 455

BM18120 : F900 Series

LVB24898 : 4010, 4100, 4110, 4115

BM19782 : X465-X595, X700 Series

BM20921 : 2210

 

The tractors that were listed for the older M01471X are also listed with the same Quik-Tatch in the list for M047SBX.

 

Yes I found out about the grapple in this thread : http://gardentractor...ch-accessories/

 

I am thinking about making one myself eventually!



#22 MacWorld OFFLINE  

MacWorld

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1195
  • 189 Thanks
  • 173 posts
  • Location: South shore of Montreal, Quebec, Canada

Posted March 28, 2018 - 10:46 AM

Update on my slow progress, I made my front shoes and took the time to document a bit more the process as the part on the ground is made the same way as for the rear shoes... same way... well not completely... more on that

Here is my cheap bending dies
IMG_7373.jpeg

And how I approximate my angle while bending, I wanted 45° therefore I set my protractor at roughly 22.5° and eye balled when to stop (until the protractor bar gets vertical)
IMG_7375.jpeg

This is both shoes bent before cutting them appart. This is required because my lower die was too wide!
IMG_7376.jpeg

Then I proceeded with the vertical part of the shoe using paper to guess the required shape. I tried maximizing the area of contact with the "raised" parts of the snowblower walls as they are thinner than new since they were rusted quite a bit.
IMG_7377.jpeg

This is how I guessed where to drill the holes and how to center the part with the holes
IMG_7378.jpeg

Now... I mentioned that they are similar to the rear shoes? Well since I wanted to put pictures here that I forgot to take for the rear shoes, I rushed and copied my previous shoes and I was left with about 3-4" of stock. Well the front shoes must be longer... of how much? About 1.5-2".. My leftover!!! I had to cut both my shoes and extend them by half my leftover. This is REALLY useless work!
IMG_7379.jpeg

Here is the final shoes
IMG_7399.jpeg
IMG_7401.jpeg

And how they fit
IMG_7403.jpeg

Remember that I have pretty flat asphalt driveway. I don't need to install the shoes outside therefore I did not drill the holes to raise the snowblower.

Later on I proceeded and painted my new shoes and other parts that were in need with 2 coats of POR15. BTW if you don't know that: if you use POR15 on sanded/new parts, make sure to prepare them with the Metal Prep, it really helps the bonding of the POR15!

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_7415.jpeg
  • IMG_7416.jpeg

  • limebuzz, KennyP, Leonard VanCamp and 1 other said thanks

#23 The_SnowMan710 OFFLINE  

The_SnowMan710
  • Member
  • Member No: 89670
  • 36 Thanks
  • 41 posts
  • Location: Nebraska

Posted April 12, 2018 - 10:55 PM

That's some good stuff there!  Keep on posting your progress!


  • MacWorld said thank you

#24 MacWorld OFFLINE  

MacWorld

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1195
  • 189 Thanks
  • 173 posts
  • Location: South shore of Montreal, Quebec, Canada

Posted April 13, 2018 - 06:35 AM

I will! I have to find time to work on the project!



#25 MacWorld OFFLINE  

MacWorld

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1195
  • 189 Thanks
  • 173 posts
  • Location: South shore of Montreal, Quebec, Canada

Posted May 01, 2018 - 10:34 AM

Non exciting progress update, the shell is primed and I started painting it in the original Jaune Deere paint. Damn there are a lot of surface area and hard to reach spots to cover it's painfully slow to do!

 

Also I've been working with a friend who has a CNC lathe, we made a CAM model for the required 6 cable pulleys for the ~270° chute rotation modification. Sadly I can't find appropriate pulleys at a reasonable price here therefore we will turn them from 2.5" steel round stock with brass bushings. I will post pictures of those when they start taking shape. We will also turn a custom hub for the PTO speed reduction pulley (to replace the lower pulley) with 4 bolts holes to install the ~10 inch pulleys. The pulley are so big they could not be installed if welded together, I will have to slide one pulley in place, slide the 1" 15T splined hub, slide the second pulley and then screw all of this together with 4 bolts.


  • KennyP said thank you

#26 MacWorld OFFLINE  

MacWorld

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1195
  • 189 Thanks
  • 173 posts
  • Location: South shore of Montreal, Quebec, Canada

Posted May 02, 2018 - 09:01 PM

Today I "fabricated" 2 parts for my snowblower, you might consider me excessive but there is a sealed volume on those blowers and they mostly rust from there, it's the triangle all across the width at the bottom of the snowblower where the horizontal bottom meets the angled plate under the auger. I want to shoot anti-rust in there and seal it.

 

I bought 2x 3/8" taper plugs and 2x 3/8" -> 1/4" reducers (they were out of 3/8 unions). I tapped (can I say that?) the threads until I was able to screw the plugs flush with the outside then I turned and cut the reducers to make bushings that I will be able to weld to each side of the snowblower. While turning I also made sure to remove all the galvanize as it's a health risk when it vaporize from welding near it.

 

 IMG_7487.jpg

 

I will have to make 2 holes and weld the bushings in place and this will be solved, I'll be able to shoot car antirust and seal my plugs in place.


  • limebuzz said thank you

#27 MacWorld OFFLINE  

MacWorld

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1195
  • 189 Thanks
  • 173 posts
  • Location: South shore of Montreal, Quebec, Canada

Posted May 12, 2018 - 07:35 PM

Progress has been made! The plugs are fully welded in place and the paint is applied to the whole main housing! I don't have pictures of the paint, at this stage I find it pointless but it will be included when the assembly begins.

 

Here are the plugs welded

IMG_7491.jpg

 

Also today we produced the 6 pulleys for the chute rotation mod!

IMG_7501.jpg

IMG_7502.jpg

IMG_7503.jpg

IMG_7504.jpg

IMG_7505.jpg

 

My next step will be to cut the bronze bushings to proper length and make a "hub" that will be between the bolt and the bronze bushings and some delrin spacers to fit on each side of each pulley. At least those parts I can make them with my small lathe. The PTO pulley hub is also on the list but it needs CNC features therefore I must wait for my friend on this.


  • DMAX, limebuzz, KennyP and 1 other said thanks

#28 MacWorld OFFLINE  

MacWorld

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1195
  • 189 Thanks
  • 173 posts
  • Location: South shore of Montreal, Quebec, Canada

Posted May 21, 2018 - 09:38 AM

Great progress has been made, a lot of new parts! I will be specifying some metric and some imperial measurements depending on if it was a bought part (imperial) or machined (metric part) and a list converted value to help. I definitely prefer metric but there is so much imperial stuff around, it's hard to avoid. i.e. the bronze bushing I used where dirt cheap but only available in imperial therefore I chose 3/4" OD and 5/8" ID. Most of the parts are made out of stainless, in fact I used 5/8" stainless bolts I had laying around. Can't beat free material!

 
Here are most (I hope all) the converted (approximations) values
1mm ≈ 3/64"
2mm ≈ 3/32"
2.5mm ≈7/64"
3/16" ≈ 5mm
3/8" ≈ 10mm
1/2" ≈ 12.7mm
5/8" ≈ 16mm
3/4" ≈ 19mm
1" ≈ 25.4mm
1.125" ≈ 28.6mm
45mm ≈ 1.75"
 
For some parts (marked with an *) I machined the bolt's hex head down to a random diameter then a specific thickness, this allowed me to avoid some washers.
 
First I machined 1mm thick spacers, 9 of them, 1.5" OD, 5/8" ID that will be installed between the pulleys, they are made out of Polyoxymethylene also know as Acetal or Delrin
IMG_7506.jpg
 
- The shafts for the 2 outer stack of pulleys. 5/8" OD 3/8" ID and 1mm thick
- The "flanged spacers" that ride in the slots of the housing, those could be only a spacer and a washer but I preferred machining a single part. They consider the thickness of the housing, the big washer (next part) and extra space. The big OD was the bolt head * and 2mm thick, the small OD is 5/8" and 7.2mm thick and the ID is 3/8"
- The washers are standard stainless 5/8" washers turned down to 1.125" OD to match the slot inside the housing
IMG_7543.jpg
 
- The shaft for the center stack of pulleys, big OD was the bolt head * and 2mm thick, small OD is 5/8" and 45mm long with an ID of 3/8"
IMG_7544.jpg
 
- The spacers for the hydraulic cylinder's shaft that sits between the 2 OEM "L-shaped" parts. The big OD was the bolt head *, ID 1/2" and it's 2.5mm thick
IMG_7545.jpg
 
- The "shaft" to install the hydraulic cylinder to the housing. This is the only steel part. This one is probably over complicated but I gave myself a challenge here. Describing from left to right. The first OD is 1/2" with 1/2"-13 threads. 43mm long total, 26mm non-threaded. I know my threads are not great looking, I had to reduce the OD otherwise I was not able to use the thread die and my lathe is metric! Largest OD is 3/4" and 2.7mm thick. Smallest OD is 3/8", 3/16" non-threaded and 17mm with 3/8"-16 threads. The 1/2"-13 nut will be a "castle nut" and a hole will be drilled in the shaft to preventing the nut from backing off. It doesn't need to be precisely installed nor tight to the cylinder as the cylinder should be able to move a bit.
IMG_7546.jpg
 
Here are the custom parts and the off the shelf parts displayed how they must be assembled. The stacks do not match directly in the "L-shaped" parts as that would have took too much space therefore it's offset. The housing of the snowblower goes where I draw a yellow line
IMG_7508e.jpg IMG_7510e.jpg
 
And there is the installation of the parts. This is a dry installation, all parts should be greased but I will do this later as for now it will be collecting dust during the summer.
 
First, off the shelf 3/8" washers and the cylinder shaft
IMG_7517.jpg IMG_7518.jpg
 
Now let's build the pulley stacks, the center stack without it's shaft for now
IMG_7519.jpg IMG_7520.jpg IMG_7521.jpg IMG_7522.jpg IMG_7523.jpg
 
Install the first L-bracket then the 3 stacks 
IMG_7524.jpg
 
Install the second L-bracket then off the shelf 3/8" washers for the outer stacks and 5/8" for the center
IMG_7525.jpg IMG_7526.jpg
 
Install the center pulley stack shaft through all parts until it reaches the housing
IMG_7527.jpg
 
Now here are the stacks that will be pushed up from inside the housing into the pulley shafts. Center bolt only has a off the shelf 3/8" washer
IMG_7532.jpg IMG_7533.jpg
 
Push the bolts up from inside the housing and install spring washers and nuts.
IMG_7547.jpg IMG_7548.jpg IMG_7534.jpg
 
Then install the cylinder base on the shaft
IMG_7535.jpg
 
Install one of the custom 2.5mm washers
IMG_7536.jpg
 
Push the complete L-bracket assembly to the right
IMG_7537.jpg
 
Install the 2nd 2.5mm washer
IMG_7538.jpg
 
And here is the completed installation
IMG_7539.jpg IMG_7540.jpg IMG_7541.jpg IMG_7542.jpg

 


  • Leonard VanCamp said thank you

#29 toomanytoys84 OFFLINE  

toomanytoys84

    Aaron

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 45129
  • 11574 Thanks
  • 6736 posts
  • Location: Ohio

Posted May 21, 2018 - 05:06 PM

All I can say here is wow. You are quite the craftsman!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  • MacWorld and dropped82 have said thanks

#30 dropped82 OFFLINE  

dropped82

    Nut Case

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 9923
  • 2823 Thanks
  • 1940 posts
  • Location: Indiana

Posted May 21, 2018 - 05:20 PM

I'm still hooked on having quick attach on the front. Opens up a whole new world of attachments for it that are plentiful.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk




Top